Roman

F1 cars is an irrelevant example, unless you're planning on idling at 6krpm and pulling 18,000rpm as well. You're right though, outboard injectors are better for high (7-8000+?) RPMs... Which is why some high $$/HP engines run two sets of injectors, some closer to the head for lower rpms, and some out further for high rpms. But in absolute terms, the size of the injectors, and injector duty cycle is going to have more of an effect on the misting pattern than distance from the head.

I'm not convinced about the 'rough finish' idea. (for a fuel injected system at least) My injectors basically shoot straight at the back of the valves, given the airspeed of an engine sucking 2000-7000 litres of air per minute into four tiny ports, I seriously doubt that the fuel hangs around long enough for it to condensate back into droplets. Besides the swirl/squish into the combustion chamber is doing most of the air/fuel mixing anyway. But of course if you've got carbs or throttle body injection then this might be different. BTW, port and polish IMO is only useful in certain situations.... 1. Where there's rough casting marks in the ports 2. Where the ports are actually a bottle neck, do you really know if this is the case? Beams 3SGE heads flow 300hp in standard form, the TRD 270hp engine does nothing to the ports/head. So not worth messing with! 3. Where you're wanting the volumetric efficiency of the engine to be in a different flow range. For example, a mate of my old mans is working on a pair of 1UZFE heads for a jetboat. He's basically filled up the entire ports, with weld metal, and redrilled them from higher up, so the port has a straighter shot directly at the valve. It's fucken amazing what he's done, skilled++. As he's wanting high RPM full throttle power, rather than partial throttle lowish rpm power, which is what most large displacement engines are designed around. He's also developed a program that calculates the optimal taper in the intake runners/ports, so he knows exactly how much cross sectional area he should have, at a particular distance from the valves. Randomly widening out the ports isnt going to acheive a hell of a lot. I mean look at the 4AGE engines, the most powerful 16v varient had the smallest ports out of all of them.

That 400hp cossie engine is a load of shite. It's alledged flywheel hp, so god knows what sort of power loss ratio they've put in. It looks like a grunty piece of kit though, no disrespect to it, I'm sure it's insane. just not 400hp insane. That's a fucken tall order from a 1.9 litre engine. BTW my 2 litre engines (3SGEs) come with a 2.25" exhaust from factory, and I've got a TOMS exhaust manifold which is 2.5". 2" is definitely too small if you're looking to get some good top end power out of it. the head on the engine in my Carina has had a porting job done when it was in Japan. when I took it to Lynn rogers, he said he was quite impressed with it, looked like a really good job was done by who ever did it. Big motherfucken open ports FTW

It turns out that when I lowered my car back down off the jack last time, the sump was actually sitting on the trolley jack. I thought it wasnt quite as low as it should be with those springs! lol. when I pulled the jack out, it sat at a much better looking height. Hooray, now that's two out of two cars that I own, which are impossible to get a bloody jack under! It also looks like my sump is going to sit slightly lower than my crossmember, which is 10 different kinds of gay. I might have to make a sump gaurd to protect it.

The only writing on the cam belt cover is '3SGE' and 'YAMAHA' down in the bottom corner, so yeah I'd say that it's still the case.

Aaaah no shit! Cheers that's awesome! I'll have a dig through.

Nah those are some TOMS extractors, they're currently on my SW20. They definitely wont fit on the Carina. Not to worry though, an altezza exhaust fits almost perfectly. Basically I swapped over all of the goodies from that engine onto my other beams one, which is in the MR2. and then the one that I'm making RWD is a hodge podge of parts from various cars. I bought my first one for $1500 when it was blown, but it included the stronger gen 5 SW20 gearbox with cusco LSD in it, TOMS extractors, HKS intake pipe, MR2 wiring loom, etc etc. Spent way too much rebuilding it though, lol. I got my second beams engine (the one that's in the MR2 at the mo) for $1200, which was one from an ST202 celica. A mate was putting it into a tube framed KP starlet drag car, and was going to turbo it. I convinced him that it was a waste of time, and so he got a 3SGTE and sold me his old engine. Good deals can be had if you've got your eyes and ears open, and are in the right time at the right place! I got offered another beams motor, an altezza one with 60,000kms for $1200, but I had to turn it down because I've already got too many damned motors! lol. This is the car in its current state, lol. It's definitely not as bad as it looks. Half of where the paint has been grinded off isnt because of rust, so much as because I suspected that there might be rust underneath. eg. some shitty bog work that had been done, where it had been dinged in the rear corner. Turns out it was fine though. Here's what it looked like when I got it: (please note the massive ride height, ghey racing stripes, etc ) It will look sort of like this once it's done, and rid of the ghastly stripes etc. (except with the twin square headlights, different wheels, etc)

lol! cheers. Yeah its hard to find good Carinas! I had to go to new plymouth to find mine! But it had been rust proofed all inside the gaurds etc, so is in really good condition. My spare parts car that I got was rusty as shite. Well I knew it was when I got it, but I was shocked at the difference between the two! Made me feel lucky to get one that was in such good condition to start with. (still a little rust to contend with though) Its fucken funny though, because you NEVER see old carinas on the road in auckland, only newer FWD ones. I've only seen an old carina on the road ONCE! So it's LOL when I tell people I'm doing up a carina, they look at me funny and wonder WTF I'm thinking. I keep telling them though, have some faith! I'm not crazy. It's actually a 'redtop' beams 3SGE engine, which came from a 1998 SW20 MR2. I bought it blown, and got it rebuilt at Lynn Rogers Automotive. Fairly standard though, .5mm oversized pistons, port & polished head, balanced bottom end, and a few other things. It probably wont make any more power than a standard one, but it's a good solid base for further modifications, and should be a bit of fun hopefully. I was originally intending to put it in my MR2, but then I got another beams engine which had 30,000kms on it, so I put that in the MR2 instead. I've had this engine sitting on an engine stand in the garage for the last two years or so, and every now and then I'd scratch my head and wonder what to do with it. So I thought it would be fun to get an old RWD toyota to put it in! The Carina was the perfect candidate, because A: I like the look of them and B: They're so fucking easy to fit everything into! Thankfully the 'FWD' beams engines can use altezza parts, so I bought an altezza sump, intake manifold and exhaust, and I was away laughing. I swapped out the red engine cover for a grey Caldina one, because I dont think that the red suits being in an older car, and especially when it doesnt have the red intake manifold to go with it. Here's a picture of what the engine looked like before I pulled off all of the bling red bits, and converted it to RWD: Aaah cheers, yep its been awesome so far! Everything's gone way too easily. Yeah I like the idea of keeping everything looking time period, but having more modern technology in terms of the engine etc. It should hopefully be a bit of fun when it's done. It's gotta be better than the 3AU and 4 speed anyway.

Cheers guys. Personally I would have rather had a KP starlet, but the carina was the next best thing. I chose the Carina because its STUPIDLY easy to put all of this shit into, and a big mission into the starlet. Everything has pretty much just dropped in place so far!

old motor: new motor. old wheels: new wheels: Old front struts/brakes: AA60 10" non vented new front struts/brakes: AA63 Celica 10" vented, AE85 steering arms, revolver RCAs, king springs (for now ) random shortened shocks (for now) I'll most likely fit the SW20 twin pots up front at some stage, if I can be bothered. There's heaps of space under my wheels for grunty brakes, anyway. Old gearbox: T40 4 speed new gearbox: Altezza 6 speed old radiator: leaky POS new radiator: Altezza rad+twin electric fans+overflow bottle all in one. Old rear diff: single spinner T series, 3.9 ratio new rear diff: F series, with cusco 4.3 ratio LSD Old status of car: Really good and reliable RWD toyota new status of car: Rusty hunk of metal that isnt capable of moving under its own power.

Yeah I'd like to see it going this decade/century, but I make no promises and I'm not holding my breath.

lol! codpiece. I'm hoping to put some of these parts to use, some time this decade hopefully.

Current mods: Pulled the car apart so that it doesnt go anymore. Future plans: make the car go again. Discussion Thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21625-romans-cod-piece/