Roman

UJ I bet you only ditched the booster because it didnt work after you drilled weight reduction holes in it

Yes standard rubber in the rear, apart from the panhard rod which is rose jointed both ends. Tonight I added what I will assume is 2 degrees of camber to the front, and went for a bit of a doort. Steering is back to being good with a little camber now! And it doesnt hit the gaurds at all with the wider tires. My 0-100kph time is probably half of what it was a week ago... Just a quick chirp then it's off. awesome. My shocks arent anything too fancy but my front to rear spring rates seem okay at the moment. Dont really want to go any stiffer on springs, might get some better shocks one day though. After driving it tonight I dont think a rear swaybar is required, it's handling great.

Soooo I got some T1Rs fitted yesterday, now running 205/50/15 all round instead of 195/50/15. Some may dissaprove of a 205 on a 7" rim but such is life haha. Car feels so much different! Previously had Bridgestone RE001s on front and Direzzas on the back. It has soooo much more grip now! Even without traction brackets I can hoof through 1st and 2nd without wheelspin which is great. One unexpected thing though is that turning has become a bit more sluggish and it understeers a lot more. The front/rear balance has previously been pretty good (if not on the oversteery side) with less grip. Which is why I've never fitted up the rear swaybar. But now that grip levels have increased it might be time to look into fitting it to get the balance right again. So I'll get that underway and increase front camber in 1 or 1/2 degree increments till turns nicely again. Might dump some friction modifier oil in the diff as well. Either way I'm pretty stoked to have some decent grip! Cant wait to drive it again after work today.

This is basically what I read this thread as Drive with your booster disconnected currently, and that's exactly what it will be like using your current MC without a booster. You'll probably find the pedal is way too hard. The only way to improve this is to change the ratio of fluid pushed by the MC per CM of pedal travel. (Or fit a booster haha) So you could: -fit a smaller MC (But it might reach the floor before you acheive full/desired level of braking) -Change the leverage point where the MC attaches to the pedal (Same problem as above) -Make the pedal travel longer for same amount of MC piston movement (Although you can only increase so much until impractical) Basically it seems like a big kick in the balls for not much gained, and will take some experimenting to find out what works well for you. I'd just leave it as is then go do some hoonage

OK thanks! I dont expect it to be a quarter mile champion or anything, but it's embarassing that my Toyota Echo would probably drag it off from the lights at the moment haha.

I'm hoping to acheive the opposite with traction brackets hahaha. Currently the car can only put down probably like 50-80hp before it spins the wheels in first or 2nd gear. Sounds fun but when you try to pull out of a side street into a gap in traffic and just blaze the wheels eeeevery time and dont move it gets pretty old! My lower 4 link arms are *just about* level, they currently point slightly upwards towards the diff. With traction brackets I should be able to get them pointing down towards the diff instead. Which should push the diff down into the ground on accelleration, rather than lift it up... hopefully!

Uuuuggghhhh Davy those wheels on your Carina were soooooooo good. Worth a pretty penny these days! Do you know what happened to yours in the end?

Woooooot! Car's all back together, and HOLY SHITBALLS! It drives so much differently with the LSD adjusted. Previously, you would make a suggestion along the lines of "Please, may we turn this corner" and the car would be all like "FUCK YOU BATMAN" then you're all like "NO FUCK YOU" and then it turns. where as now, the steering effort seems about half, and it turns in soo soo much better. It doesnt single wheel peel either, and the diff noise has completely vanished so great success all round! It's still got miserable traction, but I'm due a set of fresh tires. Traction brackets might be the only thing that will really help though. I've been looking at the options of either R888, Toyo Proxes T1R, Achilles 123 or Nitto NT01. It's just a toss up between whether I want faster laptimes but shittier to drive any other time, or nice to drive but overheating tires. I think for now I'll go with the T1Rs (which I've used previously and found to be awesome) and then keep an eye out for a spare set of wheels that fit before getting semis perhaps. Either way, pretty happy right now! Fred: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21625-romans-cod-piece

Aaaahhhh yep this has all been a kick in the balls haha. About 5 weeks off the road which isnt too bad I guess. Completed: -Diff set to one way, preload reduced, clutch friction reduced -Replaced axle wheel bearings -Reran the brake hard lines so its easier to get the calipers off -Fixed the issue of the discs pinching on the axles and not sitting straight -Fixed the issue with the Pinion gear having end float instead of preload on the bearings So there was actually a fair amount to do, I guess I'm glad I pulled it out and found these things rather than have them fail somehow later on. Good news is though... Diff's on it's way back in! I've got the housing mounted on the 4 links loosely at the moment, doing it with axles and everything else off has definitely made the job a lot easier. Fingers crossed that nothing leaks/breaks/whatever, hopefully the diff now turns the car better, not noisy under decel, and hand brake should work a bit better too. Cant wait!

Sorry typo! I meant 36,000rpm at 1000kph.

Dont bother with RCAs, at that height your front roll centre is still going to be well below ground anyway. There are some camber tops from one of the KE70s or something that's got the same stud pattern as the Carina. Not AE86 though. Or, just get AE86 ones, turn them 180 degrees and redrill the holes in your strut tops.

My car does 36000rpm at 100kph with a 4.3 which sucks. On 195/5015. Youll probably have a smaller wheel circumference so maybe just keep your standard cw&p instead.

Soooo my diff has always had a bad noise under decel, from day one... After I paid money from a reputable Auckland workshop to install the LSD and set it all up many moons ago... Called them up when I got the car running (however many years later lol) but they just said "Yeah nah its sweet, will just be how its setup to be strong" Since I've had it apart though, I've tried and failed a few times to set the backlash etc since reassembling the head as above. The reason I havent been able to set it properly is that I've now found that the pinion gear had end float of 1mm or so... When it should have none and a preload on the bearings. So I take the pinion gear out to inspect it... First thing I find is that the flange nut has been bukakk'd with loctite which has gotten pretty much everywhere inside and out. Secondly, the crush tube which sets the preload for the pinion gear bearings by tightening/crushing it, had been hammered back out 'straighter' to try and reuse it. Despite the manual saying several times to never reuse one or back off the flange nut if you've gone too far. Which is most likely why there's end float, and a noisy diff from day one. It's scary to think that my utterly amateur workmanship can be better at following basic instructions than someone who's paid to do it professionally.

Just sell your LSD and get one to suit the later model AE86(?) that had the same splines. Any other suggestion is an exercise in pain which will result in the above anyway.

This is like telling someone to keep the 3AU in their AE85, but worse. If there was ever a GT version of a starlet back then, I'm sure a T series box and a 4age would be what it would have. It looks better in the engine bay, sounds better, revs better, and you dont have to build a hand grenade to get 150hp+. What's not to like!

I had one for a little while, impulse purchase from TM a few years back haha. It was the twin round front version though. Hey Glenn, how much oil needs to go in an F series live axle again? Need to fill mine back up once I've put it together again, but I forget.

Looking swish! Needs the oil cooler out front filling the gap between the two splitters like the old cars though I reckon, to finish off the look. (And that's likely half their purpose, to hoof air through that big front cooler that fills the gap between the two halves) Would love to see this thing going full noise some time!

So as per above, I'd been looking at changing the diff ratio and changing diff type. After doing the maths on the diff ratio, in order to keep the tire sizes I want (195/50/15 and 205/50/15) and get 3000rpm at 100kph I would need to drop right down to a 3.7 ratio from 4.3. Changing to 4.1 would make bugger all difference for the effort, so 4.3 it is! Regarding the diff, after doing some homework I found that the Cusco units are VERY adjustable, and from factory they are on the highest settings for everything. At the moment it has too much preload (how much the clutches are pushed together / locking the diff when nothing is happening) Too much locking under accelleration (Annoying trying to put power down on corner exit, acts like a locked diff) Too much lock under braking/decel (Makes the car understeer on corner entry, and partly responsible for doing 720 spins into turn 1 at Taupo a few trackdays back!) Some people would suggest just adding more front camber to the car, but that just means each end of the car is fighting each other and so you're scrubbing away grip for nothing. I'll be adding a small amount of camber over it's Necessary-to-pass-cert 0 degrees setting to negative 1-1.5ish. After pulling the diff back out it looks to be the Type RS model, which is the less aggressive compared to the MZ version and thankfully it's a lot easier to adjust the preload. The preload is set by a bunch of springs holding two halves of the unit apart internally, that you can see here: The MZ type has cone washers instead, which are even more aggressive and not very adjustable from what I understand. phew! There are slots for having up to 10 springs in, mine had 6. So took two out, respaced them evenly and used the reccomended minimum of four. There are also notches in the sides, which determine whether the diff is set to one way or two way: I've changed this from two way back to one way. So when I'm not on the throttle, the car should drive like it doesnt have an LSD at all, apart from the preload force which should hopefully be a lot lower now. aannnnndd the final thing that I can adjust, is the order of the clutch plates. Basically half of the clutch plates hold on to the shaft which the axles slot into, and the other half grab on to the outside of the housing. So they either have 'tabs' on the outside or inside circumference of the plates. They are normally one then the other, however if you stack two of the same type of plates back to back, in the order prescribed in the manual you can reduce the effective friction down to 60% of what it was to start with. As explained by this excellent diagram: With everything restacked, it just needs the housing plonked back on, and the two halves are only held together with 4 phillips head countersunk screws. The reason being that they are just there to hold the halves together until the crownwheel is on, they dont need to be done up super tight... Then add the crown wheel and torque it all back up to factory settings, and back in the housing. From here it's no different to the process for installing any other type of diff. It looked pretty intimidating seeing the exploded diagram, but they've done well to have the minimal amount of parts and super easy to adjust or service. Here's a Gif of how it stacks together: This is all yet another tick in the box towrads the idea of going to an easier to work on car than previous... I shudder at the thought of having to make the same changes to a diff buried inside a transaxle! There are a few other things to do while the the diff is out. I found that the brake discs were pinching on the outside circumference of the axles - so they werent sitting completely flush against the axle face. This pretty much busted the near new wheel bearings on the axles, so will need to replace those again. Bummer! Easy and not too expensive problem to solve though, I'm relieved it wasnt a bent axle instead causing the problem. When towing the car on the trailer I've had to be careful about throwing strops over the diff as well, as the brake hard lines are in the way. So I'll be redoing these in a more strop friendly location, then painting the diff housing finally, then mash it all back together. This should take a competent and motivated person maybe 3-5 nights after work and a weekend to complete. So, ETA is December Thankfully most of this work I can do on the bench in the garage instead of scrounging around under the car, which isnt particularly appealing at this time of year. Fred: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?showtopic=21625#p614135

Ahhh thanks! I also found some pictures of a T series diff set to one way which had the flat face pointing left. Ive set it to the softest possible setting now, and 1 way. so I figure I'll want to pull it back out to either rearrange the plates, or increase preload or whatever depending on how it goes. So not too much of a drama to switch it back to 2 way.

Hey, After finding out that its actually designed to be adjustable, i pulled out my excessively grabby cusco 2 way lsd. Rearranged the clutch plates to the 60% setting and removed 1 third of the springs which set the preload. The part thats caught me out though! The lsd can be two way or one way, dependin on which cam profile you put the end of the cross gear thing in. I want to set it to one way, but ive realised it can be set the wrong way around... so only giving lsd action under decel haha. Does anyone know if the flat face of the cam profile needs to be pointing towards, or away, from the direction of rotation for accelleration? Cant post a pic to explain at the moment, pc is fubar.

In other news, i approve of this soarer goodness. Z20s are freaken sweet

Does it blow teu at once?Puhuhuhu

I'm liking this dry sump business.

Havent done anything particularly noteworthy with this... apart from drive it! Have done almost 5,000kms since cert with minimal issues. I've always been wondering how it would stack up weight wise though. The benchmark I wanted to match or better was my previous car, an SW20 with beams motor. Which was 1030kg with about 1/3rd tank of gas. Put the carina on the weighbridge today, and it was 1040kg with 1/2 a tank. I was a little bit surprised that even though it's got so much more weight in the drivetrain (Engine>gearbox>driveshaft>diff) compared to a transverse setup it's comparable weight overall. It's got MA61 seats at the moment which are quite heavy, and full glass... the glass in the rear hatch is quite heavy, it's why the factory weight of the coupe is actually heavier than the sedan. The factory 4age version Carina was 1100kg+ I think, if it was fully specd with power steering etc. IRS adds weight too. Might rig up one of my spare rear hatches with Lexan for trackday stuff, and without passenger seat it would be under a tonne fo' sho' Until I hop in it, at least haha. -The to-do list over the next while is: -New tires, back to 205s instead of 195. maybe semis cant decide. -Replaced the only-good-for-skids Cusco 2 way LSD with a Torsen and maybe 4.1 ratio instead of 4.3 (Sucks doing 3600rpm at 100kph...) -Redo the exhaust, because it's pretty shitty and sounds less than great. -Possibly Version 3 megasquirt, and if so possibly back to ITBs or maybe setup a factory manifold with staged injection. Picture unrelated:

Yeah good advice... The crank angle sensor stuff is easy, as it's just a missing tooth wheel. But the cam angle sensor is a bit different, it has two teeth say 45 degrees apart from each other that sweep past the sensor per 360 degrees. Not sure if it's gonna shit itself when it 'sees' two of them at odd intervals or not. I'm not sure why it's got two anyway, I doubt it could measure anything useful in the time interval between one going past and the other. EDIT: Found this, looks simple enough actually. Just need to probably use a dial gauge on the cam to find out the position of the first and second teeth relative to (presumably?) max or min lift on cam for cyl #1. http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/vvt.html So two teeth isnt a problem, nothing complicated about VVTI that couldnt work as above. Just firing a solenoid at the end of the day! Wonder if the coilpacks will work though, ever used the Toyota ones with MS, KPR?