Roman

Ahhh okay interesting. What angle would you say the 4 links on currently, would they be parallel with the ground, up towards the diff, or up towards the body?

Have you ever driven the car with the lower 4 links down set to the lower set of holes on the diff?

Not too sure to be honest. Does your engine have standard cams still? In other news, I've been pestering Link to add an RPM based table for setting the inner/outer ratio for the staged injection - They've said it'll be included in an upcoming firmware version, yuss! As currently you can only go by MAP (Boost=MOAR INJECTORS!) or TPS which isnt too useful for NA stuff either.

Heh yep I hear ya - all good points. At this point I'm keen to go back to the staged injection manifold once the engine is back in the car, and experiment with that a bit more.

I might be missing something here, but why not make all the changes, then get cert? Or otherwise skip cert and save yourself the $$$ if it's going to be modified away from cert specs anyway?

The point is that a lot of the characteristics are similar on paper, including how much power they make from a standard engine. (+-10hp depending on verison) K20A doesnt use exotic materials or anything unavailable to any other 2 litre engine... Yet K20 responds well to mods, beams (and a lot of other things) do not. Even if you get the most agressively spec'd $$beams toda cams$$ available, it still has 10 degrees less duration than a standard Honda item. Does that not strike you as something remarkable about the K motor, compared to .5mm valve size or whatever? 70 degrees difference in duration is a shit load! And in my mind goes a long way towards explaining why basic 'breathing' mods work well on Honda stuff but not so much on beams. Nice strawman though.

Ahh yep! I remember seeing that way back in the day. I wonder if it was in the rules that they had to run a factory plenum or something. Interesting setup! EDIT: I remember some more information about this now. The motors werent 280hp, they were 250hp, due to being class limited to a 10:1 compression ratio. I remember a set of pistons from one of these engines came up for sale at one point., People wtf'd because the pistons were a bit spendy, and the CR didnt really make sense for either a turbo or NA build for people who didnt need to follow those same rules.

Yeah it depends on the shape of your adaptor manifold, whether it would suit silvertop or blacktop throttles. As blacktops have the silly shaped exit hole, silvertop a bit rounder. Yeah I think there are some bikes running bigger throttles than that. Some of the other options are trickier to adjust the spacing between the throttles, I think the GTR ones are in cast pairs? I was browsing some Honda forums and a lot of those guys run 50+mm or 60mm quad throttles, they've got off the shelf kits... but they cost a friggen fortune!

Oh yep good point! Perhaps it's even greater than 17% when you consider that the first mm or two of lift are probably useless. Main thing though was that apart from the cam specs, out of the things listed there didnt seem to be too much different going on. I'm pretty sure that they run a non square bore/stroke as well though, as in short stroke so they can do higher rpm without standard cast pistons blowing to smithereens. although that doesnt much explain how K24s seem to do zillions of revs without exploding. As they'd have a higher piston speed than an 86x86 2.0 litre engine at the same rpm. It's a bit of an eye opener reading some of the K20 forums though, man some of those guys have got shit loads to spend on building motors.

Hi, story time! Holy fuckaluckalucka the K20 motors have got so much more cam duration than a beams motor. And a bit more lift. Apart from that the other specs seem reasonably similar to the M/T Altezza engine (Comparison is against my single VVTI engine) Way smaller throttle body on a K20 which is odd. The big hp builds seem to go for gigantic throttle bodies though and 4" intake pipes. And the age old question, 20v throttles on a beams motor, or standard manifold? The standard intake manifold has 45mm diameter runners. With bell mouths on the end. In a fancy plenum with a big throttle body. Silvertop 20v throttles at the throttle plate are 43mm diameter. Blacktop 20v throttles at the throttle plate are 45mm diameter. buuuutttt a throttle body still has the throttle shaft blocking some cross sectional area when it's open, so it's effective area is more like this: So: (Altezza manifold) 45mm dia no throttle: 1590mm square of cross sectional area (Blacktop 4age) 45mm dia 4mm thick throttle shaft: 1410mm square of cross sectional area (88% area of standard runner) (silvertop 4age) 43mm dia 4mm thick throttle shaft: 1280mm square of cross sectional area (80% area of standard runner) You'd need a 47-48mm throttle body (if it had a 4mm shaft) to get a similar cross sectional area to a standard 45mm standard runner. In other unrelated news also took the yellow car for a bit of a spin to blow the cobwebs out, still going strong! (Or, at least as strong as a 3AU is capable of going haha)

Keep it as is, and then if later on you decide that it's a ball ache not being able to take passengers, add a seat. It's the same amount of work whether you do it sooner or later, but it means that in the meantime you can concentrate on the critical path towards having a running car.

Second hand value is tricky, but I'd say you could probably sell the headers.... .... .... .... .... For 1G

A workmate just bought a turbo DC2 running one of the eeeaaarrrlllllyyy links. I'm pretty sure that the scratches on the casing are from when Moses tried to chisel the ten commandments into it. His engine has been running a bit rough so I was all "sweet lets just datalog it" Oh nah, turns out you need a serial board and all this other junk to plug it in, and there's possibility that it's not laptop tunable anyway. Heh. *back away slowly*

Might dig out the yellow car for some 3AU spec lols.

What's the deal with fibreglass as an insulator? As in, I realise it's a good insulator when it's 'fluff' like pink batts. But I'm guessing that's because of the air gaps... When it's in Resin or epoxy for panels or whatever, is it actually still an effective insulator? Or is it only as good as the insulation properties of the resin or expoxy.

Friggen awesome picture! Beautiful.

Jelly of your awesome wheels, looks great.

Aahh cool, Chase is right near my work ill go check it out on monday. Using an xtreme

Yeah thats how the bolts came, I put in brand new Toyota ones when the flywheel was last off. I dont think engine or gearbox oil was anything to do with the clutch failing though, because the whole thing was completely dry when I took the cover plate off. It was only when I undid the flywheel bolts that it was oily. It was the side of the friction material facing the flywheel that nuked itself. In fairness it's been an el cheapo standard clutch that's lasted for maybe 8-10 trackdays, 14 dragstrip launches with (lame) burnouts, max rpm clutch dumps, and 10,000km or so of street driving. Not too bad I guess.

Coupe Echo life! Do you even lift, bro? Oooohhhh, yep that'll do it... Centrifugal clutch conversion! haha. Flywheel still looks good and shold skim up fine! stoked. No idea why engine oil came out of the flywheel bolt holes though! Do they block off a gallery in the crank or something? Bizarre as there were no signs of oil leaking into the bell housing at all.

Things to do... I've still got the factory narrowband oxy sensor in the exhaust manifold, only for sake of preventing an exhaust leak. (left hand side) So I need a nut to weld or screw in, anyone know what the thread pitch is? I guess I can just take the oxy sensor to an engineering shop or whatever. Had this guy lend a helping hand: Just a note on the T3 AE86 castor arms - If I were to do this again I would likely just use standard arms instead with polyurethane bushes. Reason being that these things seem way overkill on weight and size, and also the adjustor part looks to have rusted which is going to make it a pain to adjust later on. Where as the standard castor arms still seemed fine after 30 years on the road or whatever, rather than 10,000kms later looking a bit worse for wear. Very high quality product dont get me wrong - but just not really ideal for my application I dont think. I havent checked the rose joints but I consider them a maintenance item which will likely need replacing at some stage too. Also the Aliexpress 'titanium' heat wrap is actually excellent. It's lasted way better than the fibreglass stuff I've used previously, and it's only having problems where I've been a noob wrapping it. Even when banging it on the side of the car getting the exhaust in or out, it looks to hold up pretty well. Reccomended! It looks rugged using hose clamps all over it, but works better than anything else I've tried and is easily adjustable if you need to rewrap a part or whatever. The goal was to reduce under bonnet temperatures, I havent measured this either way but it seems to have made an improvement to intake manifold temperatures according to the hand-ometer. I have taken both of the front gaurds off, and it is absolutely shit caked in dirt! From some gravel bashing/nats/etc. I wouldnt normally care except for that dirt holds moisture, which means rust of course. Need to dig out the wheel well gaurds if they still fit, or come up with some other solution. Anyone done anything like this before? Not too sure where to start. Annnnddddd another thing I want to fix, is that the wiring comes through the firewall at a really fiddly spot. It's only this way because it's how the factory loom needed to go, which is no longer relevant. I think I'm gonna end up buying the 2.5 meter long look for the LInk, and run the link wiring all the way to the motor. As the other problem that this would fix is the absolute clusterfuck of messy wiring under the dash that I can easily get rid of. It's just been an hour or two of basic spannering and I've got the whole front of the car off, and the motor and gearbox are about ready to come out. Love how easy it is working on this thing!! And as time goes on I find ways to make it better and easier too. Will get the engine crane tomorrow and hopefully have the motor and box apart some time over the weekend.

So it jams the throttle plate open haha...

Yeah seems remarkably similar to other bogus products claims. However for lols, scroll down to the one called: "Savings of 20.76% fuel costs - spreadsheet" the headers are a laugh. Also I remember seeing an article about dyno testing ceramic coated piston tops, bores, valves, etc etc. Conclusion (on the dyno) was that it acheived fark all for lots of money. But, some cars like new GTR etc plasma coat the bores or whatever for whatever reason. I guess it's hard to tell the wheat from the chaff with these sorts of things. But then there's stuff like that water repellent spray that's god damn amazing. Bah! stupid technology.

Good thinking, we could have an 80 Decibel limit at the track, because anything more would be ungentlemanly.

Hey, Anyone used something along the lines of this? I'm skeptical but intrigued: http://www.nanoenergizer.com/ But who knows with this sort of thing. Seems that there are plenty of testimonials from university studies etc with back to back comparisons and what not: http://www.nanoenergizer.com/testimonials Anyone had a hoon on something like this? Seems potentially handy for old motors if it could help with bore wear or whatever. (or it could be snake oil, or it could clog your oil filter, or be abrasive to bearings, or blah blah... dunno!)