Roman

Levering against the pad = levering against the disc. Not keen on that as I've just got new wheel bearings and not keen to be putting a lot of force on them. Sorted now anyway, gonna run down the road to Radium this morning.

Aahhh awesome! http://radum.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8685 Might go check that place out today. Thanks.

Hey thanks... Yeah there are ones that look like those on Ebay for about 25 bucks + shipping. But probably horribly made by comparison haha. Although I will go have a geez at BNT etc today and see if there's anything similar.

The last set... 1 trackday Hopefully a bit more longevity with non weetbix pads though. But yeah for one reason or another, I've had to pull my front suspension apart maybe 10 times since I've had my car together... So I'd like to make things easier when this happens too. So I get what you're saying. But I need to push the pistons back in for any job relating to brakes / hubs / bearings / struts / whatever.

Should be clearing weather for tomorrow / overcast. Woot! Looking forward to this but wont be beating on the car too hard - It'll be just my luck that the one time I dont bring the car trailer and full set of tools, I'll need them

Hey, I put 4 pot brakes on the front of my car so it's super quick to change pads at a trackday or whatever if need be. And, yes, it is a LOT easier to quickly yank the pads out! BUT It's a giant kick in the balls trying to get the pistons back in, and I dont want to lever against the disc. Does anyone know of a tool similar to this that you could buy from BNT or where ever? Or have any good ideas on how to make something similar for minimal effort For Nissan R33 calipers. Ideas, go! EDIT: Aahhhh nevermind, E-bay is flooded with simple tools which will do the trick. Problem solved haha.

Heh yeah it's been a while, the car is buried under a mountain of crap in the garage at my Dads place currently... We're just working on clearing it all out so we can get stuck back in this summer. Always on the lookout for soarer parts though, shout out if anyone's got some Z10 junk lying around! Or a 1JZGTE VVTI downpipe/cat converter.

get an f series diff (7.5" crownwheel) and bang in a factory torsen lsd from an altezza. can get them for about 400 bucks. depending on tire size either a 4.1 or 4.3 ratio will be best for a standard rev limit engine.

Hey there are a few tricks you can use that will be helpful... (probably what you were after in the first place haha) -There are two sets of holes for where the shifter bolts on to the gearbox. You can bash out the split pin in on the shifter part that's on the shaft, turn it around 180 degrees and then run the shifter bracket on the further forward set of holes. Definitely do this, it helps a lot! -You can run a W series gearbox spline into the back of the box, these are thicker beefier driveshafts than Altezza ones. But altezza size will be fine and a bit lighter. -They used to sell a TRD sump for these motors, but it effectively just does these mods to factory parts: Take the lower oil pan off, and there's a top tray part that runs around the edge of the bowl. You can hammer one of the corners down shut, and use a bead of sealant around the gaps to close any other gaps. Stops the oil coming back out the top under hard cornering. -Put a spacer (I'll find how thick it needs to be, cant remember) between the oil pickup and the block so it sits lower down. (TRD car does this, although wont apply if you need to cut the bowl shorter for clearance) - Weld a small steel pipe that protrudes upwards and downwards, into the disptick hole in that same metal plate as above. Stops the oil sloshing through there. -You can use a W5* gearbox speedo sender if you want to convert the box to a cable speedo. Probably wont be accurate though! -No distributor to worry about on these engines! The back of the head is reasonably uncluttered. -There's an external oil drain on the exhaust side of the block, from the head back to the sump. But the internal drains are on the intake side. So if you needed to lean the motor slightly one way or the other it shouldnt really matter. -Find a fuel rail from a Caldina single VVTI beams motor if you can, then you get a free FPR on the fuel rail. Runs at a lower pressure than Altezza but doesnt matter if you're running aftermarket ECU. -Take the engine cover off, or run some ducting into and out of it to keep the coilpacks cool. As if your coilpacks are on the fritz they start to pack up first when they get hot.

KPR said it I think. From memory it's the hottest burn so isnt any good for your engine.

Haha, you guys make it sound like a binary decision between owning a road car and a full blown F1 car. A dry sump is never a necessity and with modifications to the standard pan a beams motor can corner at 1.5g+ no sweat. There are many examples of much more powerful cars lapping low 1:40s at Taupo full track with a wet sump. (Sometimes dry sump not allowed in racing classes) There's no way you would have any change short of $15k to get a K24A (with no performance mods) setup RWD in a starlet. To get a 300hp K24A would be 20k easy... Yes there's more scope for modification but that's if you've got any money left after you get the thing going. I would say you could do a beams motor for maybe $5-8k depending on a few things. Rookie it's funny that you're advocating the most expensive possible options for the engine, and every other option is not worth bothering with. Yet vouching for a locked diff because it's the cheapest (and worst) option. Having a proper LSD is like going from carbs to EFI

Oh, is that all a K24 costs these days? Cool. Either option costs a shit tonne more than $2k though... You need dry sump to have any chance of fitting a K24 in a starlet. Custom manifolds etc. $10k minimum in bits I'd say. Guy Lance in Oamaru is doing one, will be awesome when it's going. Spendy project though. Converted it to left hook partially because the exhaust runs down other side of the engine. and makes the steering column a pain.

Lol so the only option you'd ever consider, is the horrifically expensive one? K series are great but Honda tax makes my wallet cry. Then that x100 if wanting to RWD one.

Drag day is coming up so I've been trying to get some sort of baseline idea of how this thing might go. Using some GPS data from trackday (with the previous exhaust setup though), I've got a good idea of how fast it accellerates in a straight line in the 100-180kph range. So with some dubious maths, combining this with some 0-100kph testing looks as though this should currently do about a mid 15 at 140kph. The MR2 had a lot better traction than this car, it could launch from redline no problems! 2 second 60 foot times. The problem that the car has currently, because there's miserable traction the ideal launch rpm is in a torque hole. (1500rpm or so) So if I launch above this speed, it wheelspins. If I launch at or below this speed, it bogs. Both options kill time... bugger. By increasing the amount of traction you are widening the 'launch window' (The rpm range you can launch at, without excessive bogging or wheelspin) It would be nice to have a 'launch window' from 2500-4500rpm perhaps... Hopefully some traction brackets and low psi in the tires will be enough to get it to hook up nicely off the line. Will hopefully get enough runs in without issue to test out my theory.

Theres a bunch of mr2s in auckland pickaparts / zebra at the moment so shouldnt be hard to find one.

Use one of the taps that are in the front of an MR2 that you normally use to bleed the heater circuit with... Can run them inline with rubber hoses about the same diameter as most heater pipes. I used to have airlocks at the back of my engine but fitted one of these into the highest rear pipe and now it's fine.

Aahhh stink! If my car shits itself between now and then I'll let you know haha.

yeah make it yourself. generic ones are awful.

rookie - the best race car is one thats easy to fix. unless youve got a team of mechanics!

Yeah something like that, ended up parting out his project I believe. There was another one though, a race car... But it needed the firewall pushed back a fair bit, tunnel enlarged, drip tray for windscreen cut right back, and I think he had to get rid of the Brake MC and booster from the engine bay to make everything fit. I think it was only possible to take the motor and box out from underneath as well.

1. 60psi or there abouts, with a returnless fuel line. So you need an aftermarket FPR. 2. From factory they have a dual mass flywheel which is a big heavy shitsack (15+kg) but light aftermarket options available. 3. It's a tall and wide engine with a gearbox that doesnt fit the tunnel. So pretty much everything's a problem, for a starlet. A 4age/T50 will be about 5% of the ballache to get fitted and running. Beams starlet has been done before, I think there's a project on here or toyspeed. But not something I'd want to do! 4. Not sure.

The longer the driveshaft, the lower it's rpm is that it wants to vibrate itself to death at. Hence two piece. A few guys here have had issues with 1 piece shafts doing exactly that, so went to 2 piece in the end. Why are you fitting a hilux diff/what engine are you running? If you're wanting to take your car to the track and go 150+ then two piece is likely the better option.

I aahhhh..... yeah. We try not to be too judgemental around here, and are generally a polite bunch. But I think there would be only a few people in disagreement that you've just plainly wrecked the gaurds on your car, both in aesthetics and repairable-ness. Stance and wide wheel thing is a bit past it's time, this car is a perfect opportunity to try something a bit new or different instead? Rather than the same thing that's been done a million times already, better (no offense, besides its definitely on its way out if you're wanting to keep up with what's 'cool' on the internet) I reckon this car has some cool lines to take some styling cues from some older touring car sedans... Make it look like a nascar as a bit of a hat tip to the Camrys that have raced the american ovals for however long. Find some sweet inspiration in here and whip up something awesome! //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45143-race-car-pic-thread/ And dont worry we all know what JB weld is Welcome to OS.

Good stuff! Must be stoked.