Roman

Jelly of your awesome wheels, looks great.

Aahh cool, Chase is right near my work ill go check it out on monday. Using an xtreme

Yeah thats how the bolts came, I put in brand new Toyota ones when the flywheel was last off. I dont think engine or gearbox oil was anything to do with the clutch failing though, because the whole thing was completely dry when I took the cover plate off. It was only when I undid the flywheel bolts that it was oily. It was the side of the friction material facing the flywheel that nuked itself. In fairness it's been an el cheapo standard clutch that's lasted for maybe 8-10 trackdays, 14 dragstrip launches with (lame) burnouts, max rpm clutch dumps, and 10,000km or so of street driving. Not too bad I guess.

Coupe Echo life! Do you even lift, bro? Oooohhhh, yep that'll do it... Centrifugal clutch conversion! haha. Flywheel still looks good and shold skim up fine! stoked. No idea why engine oil came out of the flywheel bolt holes though! Do they block off a gallery in the crank or something? Bizarre as there were no signs of oil leaking into the bell housing at all.

Things to do... I've still got the factory narrowband oxy sensor in the exhaust manifold, only for sake of preventing an exhaust leak. (left hand side) So I need a nut to weld or screw in, anyone know what the thread pitch is? I guess I can just take the oxy sensor to an engineering shop or whatever. Had this guy lend a helping hand: Just a note on the T3 AE86 castor arms - If I were to do this again I would likely just use standard arms instead with polyurethane bushes. Reason being that these things seem way overkill on weight and size, and also the adjustor part looks to have rusted which is going to make it a pain to adjust later on. Where as the standard castor arms still seemed fine after 30 years on the road or whatever, rather than 10,000kms later looking a bit worse for wear. Very high quality product dont get me wrong - but just not really ideal for my application I dont think. I havent checked the rose joints but I consider them a maintenance item which will likely need replacing at some stage too. Also the Aliexpress 'titanium' heat wrap is actually excellent. It's lasted way better than the fibreglass stuff I've used previously, and it's only having problems where I've been a noob wrapping it. Even when banging it on the side of the car getting the exhaust in or out, it looks to hold up pretty well. Reccomended! It looks rugged using hose clamps all over it, but works better than anything else I've tried and is easily adjustable if you need to rewrap a part or whatever. The goal was to reduce under bonnet temperatures, I havent measured this either way but it seems to have made an improvement to intake manifold temperatures according to the hand-ometer. I have taken both of the front gaurds off, and it is absolutely shit caked in dirt! From some gravel bashing/nats/etc. I wouldnt normally care except for that dirt holds moisture, which means rust of course. Need to dig out the wheel well gaurds if they still fit, or come up with some other solution. Anyone done anything like this before? Not too sure where to start. Annnnddddd another thing I want to fix, is that the wiring comes through the firewall at a really fiddly spot. It's only this way because it's how the factory loom needed to go, which is no longer relevant. I think I'm gonna end up buying the 2.5 meter long look for the LInk, and run the link wiring all the way to the motor. As the other problem that this would fix is the absolute clusterfuck of messy wiring under the dash that I can easily get rid of. It's just been an hour or two of basic spannering and I've got the whole front of the car off, and the motor and gearbox are about ready to come out. Love how easy it is working on this thing!! And as time goes on I find ways to make it better and easier too. Will get the engine crane tomorrow and hopefully have the motor and box apart some time over the weekend.

So it jams the throttle plate open haha...

Yeah seems remarkably similar to other bogus products claims. However for lols, scroll down to the one called: "Savings of 20.76% fuel costs - spreadsheet" the headers are a laugh. Also I remember seeing an article about dyno testing ceramic coated piston tops, bores, valves, etc etc. Conclusion (on the dyno) was that it acheived fark all for lots of money. But, some cars like new GTR etc plasma coat the bores or whatever for whatever reason. I guess it's hard to tell the wheat from the chaff with these sorts of things. But then there's stuff like that water repellent spray that's god damn amazing. Bah! stupid technology.

Good thinking, we could have an 80 Decibel limit at the track, because anything more would be ungentlemanly.

Hey, Anyone used something along the lines of this? I'm skeptical but intrigued: http://www.nanoenergizer.com/ But who knows with this sort of thing. Seems that there are plenty of testimonials from university studies etc with back to back comparisons and what not: http://www.nanoenergizer.com/testimonials Anyone had a hoon on something like this? Seems potentially handy for old motors if it could help with bore wear or whatever. (or it could be snake oil, or it could clog your oil filter, or be abrasive to bearings, or blah blah... dunno!)

If only you were in Auckland VG, we could go on a datlogging brodate and I'd be able to draw your some boring graphs </3

Datalog all the things please

This is epic!

Jeepers, how have you managed to lose 25kg from the diff? That's heaps!

What PCD are you going to / coming from? Isnt it a real bastard to try drill a hole half through weld metal / half cast or whatever? /ling a ding

Haha! Yeah I've been thinking about that, having the engagement/disengagement adjustable would be a bit better than what I'm planning. But I might be able to work around that with software or whatever I guess, will see how it goes.

Oh yeah, how do you have launch control setup? I think it'll just be trial and error but happy to hear other peoples experiences

I extended the wires on the clutch switch so they are long enough to reach the ECU. Then I pulled the front of my car off, coupe life

Ahh cheers Sheepers! Hmmm okay yep I guess I'll go hound some wreckers. Wouldnt bother getting them recoated etc if there's off a lateish model car, it's just that most of mine are old and fucked.

Yeah I'm always in need of extras so hoping there's a place you can just go buy a pack of 50 of each or whatever. Most existing ones are a bit buggered.

Hey, weird sounding question. But if I go to an engineering shop they always have engineering spec nuts and bolts which have different size heads for the thread size. So for example, need to use a 13mm socket instead of 14mm for same thing. I've got plenty of Toyota nuts and bolts but they're all rusted and shit house! So is there anywhere I can get some brand new, but the same as what I've got? I like the idea of being able to fix 95% of potential problems on my car with just 10,12,14,17,19mm sockets and spanners.

What happens in cars with big cams and lots of overlap at idle. Does that end up showing as rich, or lean?

Viewed thread title, expected very little. Viewed thread, very impressed! Awesome idea, well executed, well written up. Hand shandies all round.

I've put the rego on hold for three months, because it'll be a while till I can get the clutch out. In the meantime however, I thought I'd do some work on other bits on the car write a haiku: Registration holds with more confidence than clutch. Fuck you, stupid car In super fricken awesome news though , Link decided to make all of their unlockable ECU upgrades free with the lates bout of firmware for the G4+ So this means I can now setup knock control, extra datalogging, OBD2 junk, and electronic throttle control if I want. I was looking at buying knock control eventually, so pretty happy with that. So I'll wire up the knock sensor to the proper input now instead of laptop and headphones. I'm super keen on launch control and flat shifting! These were existing features but need a clutch switch wired in. I thought this might be a bit tricky to do, but I had a look under the dash... The clutch pedal has a stopper bolt to limit its travel. The brake pedal has a stopper too, but it's threaded switch instead of a bolt. That has the same thread pitch, woot! So I got another brake switch from a Toyota at Zebra today, just need to screw it in and wire it up. Easy! This in conjunction with traction brackets and the higher rpm limit now, i reckon I might scrub a little time off my PB of 14.3 at the drags.

Yeah, my flywheel is a chromoly one which is quite thin and swiss cheesed with holes around the edges. So not sure if that's better or worse for dissipating heat, I guess it builds heat quicker but stores less as well. Maybe I need a cooling pipe to my bell housing too haha.

Hey guys, Looking for some reccomendations on clutch options. 3SGE + 6 speed. I want something that drives like a normal clutch, but is more resistant to heat and high load situations. (Lots of trackday high rpm gear shifts, b-owts, launches at the drags etc) Requirements: -Preferably a full faced, sprung disk. -Resistant to the heat of lots of trackday gear changes and the odd launch at the drags. -Reuse TODA flywheel rather than buying whole new system if possible -Preferably not noisy for normal driving (Otherwise ORG single plate would be ideal) Previous experience: -Full faced no name standard clutch lasted 10,000km but then finally gave up mid way through a trackday. I havent pulled it out to check what's wrong but I suspect that the friction material just shit a brick from the heat from lots of 8000rpm shifts. -A mis-shift (by someone else) caused the springs to explode out of an exedy 5 puck, had cracks all over the metal centre of the disc. It was also mildly annoying to drive 'normally' with. Thoughts/experience? People have reccomended Exedy options but it's hard to tell what's junk/same as what I've had or what will actually withstand heat etc. Wasnt overly impressed with Exedy 5 puck in the past. Anyone used TODA stuff? Thinking I could get the cover and disk to match the flywheel, as presumably it's a bit gruntier than standard. But it's a bit spendy. It seems like the difference I'm after just comes down to quality of friction material. Which makes it impossible to know what's actually good or not.