Unclejake

Lucky escape...... (been there, done that etc.)

Way back in the late 80s I owned a doublecab 4x4 Hilux for surfing etc. Had a 3Y motor I think When trying to chose one to buy I drove one that had a twincam 2 ltr motor in is. I seem to recall it was an 18RU os something like that. The lasting impression was of a fantastic motor that was completely and utterly unsuited to the wide ratio gearbox in the Hilux. It was bloody awfull and would fall off the cam between gearchanges. Just something to think about Peace.

Anything motorcycle or marine is expensive. Three engines the same with bad cranks probably means that either the engine has an instrisic design flaw or it is not being used as intenmded by the manufacturer. If it is a G-kart then grafting another known motor into it is probably the best idea. Preferably one you can ride first to make certain it is not stuffed. My little brother bought a Katana sight unseen off Tardme a few weeks ago. You guessed it - bad bigends and piston slap. The parts alone are 70% of what the bike cost him.

^ Dang. I used to be that Suzuki had different coloured bearings for different journal sizes - but I am guessing you have been down that path already. It is easy to throw good money after bad...........

What is the motor that you want to build up the crank?

^ If you have all the leads on correcty then your timing is too far advanced. Retard the bitch until she fires - then work out where it is supposed to be

Sounds like you know exactly what you are doing. Engine start is probably the best idea then - and if that doesn't work keep looking at the timing (I only say that because of the backfiring). I would have that when you moved the leads 180 degrees you would have seen some spitbacks through the carb though (as well as the backfiring). In the past on a few old hard to initially start Ford motors I have taken out all the plugs, cleaned them and then only fitted two plugs - that helps the motor turn over faster on the starter motor. Once the two plugs have fired a few times (the engine will normally start and idle badly) then I fit the other two. It doesn't always work and waiting for some mug to hold the can of engine start is probably a better way

And if you don't believe me rotate the motor until the rotor is pointing at #1 and you are at TDC. Then rotate the motor on the crankshaft one turn and you will find that the rotor is now pointing at #4

It can still be out by 180 degrees based on what you have described. Swap the leads around 180 degrees on the dizzy cap and try again.

^ agreed. Or you have messed up the firing order when you took the plug leads off.

Imp v

Looks like you might be fighting a losing battle with that engine. Lack of antifreeze is the #1 killer of decent blocks for Mk1 Cortinas too. It is a good and visible lesson eh? Peace boe

^ Prolly. Nobumps - what motor designation are you looking for parts for mang? I have many spies........... But finsh the Mercedes too would ya! It is the horniest one on the planet.

Well the headgasket that Nobumps reckons is a copy of a G161 sure looks like an OHC gasket to me - I don't know what a G161 should like like though.

I just had a quick look at Chris Bowden's website (he is in Northland) and he is showing headsets in stocl for Isuzus from 1967 through to 1990s. He specifically lists a G161 ($55) http://www.bowdenengineparts.co.nz He is a good cunt too.

Gaskets Unlimited in Kuemu West Auckland can make you a new head gasket

Manwhore? Engineer? What are you experienced in?

^ Yeah - the shed has been a bit crazy as a mate ended up with two race Anglias as well all jammed in there with the two 2 door Cortinas, the Mercedes a four door Cortina and a 66 Mustang. 'Twas hard to get the boat out lololololololol

I sent the Willwood pedal box out of a spare Mk1 two door Cortina race car to Les Hunter Race Brakes in Christchurch last week. It came back to me yesterday. Three brand new master cylinders, two new wheel cylinders, modifications to the balance bar, two or three phone calls to me on my mobile, a personal letter advising me of how to set things up, a three page hand drawn diagram of how to set other thgings up and a bunch of other recomendations. Total invoice including frieght and GST = $375. Les Hunter from Christchurch rules. Amen.

^ I still have them but am thinking about a move to Bilstiens. I have not had the lastes issues quoted yet.

I can't agree with you there. I have had three different problems with Koni Yellows lately. This months issue is that the adjusters have simply seized. A few months ago one of mine started randomly changing rebound resistance. A few months beofe another one was grabbing on compression - back to Stocks with them but every time they need to cutt the bloodu things open and often they aren't worth fixing.

Koni yellows are at least adjustbale for re-bound dampening - but they are bloody unrealiable IMHO

^ about $400 from memory - but I spent another $110 or so on a theromstatic switch for it incase I forget to switch the EWP on. I used a Davies Craig pump - you can but them from Repco and they are AWSOME!!!!! (in my tiny opinion of course). I have 60 or 80 litres of coolant circulating per minute (I forget which) - regardless of engine revs. It also meant that I could hack off the mechanical waterpump and fan - giving more room for electric fans. I was not running an alternator when I first put the EWP on so I had no belts at all of the front crank pulley.

^ I fond a photo of the cam drive and put it in the project section for you

Added a photo of the Mercedes Cam drive for Blakamin