Unclejake

Crankshaft thrust bearings are stuffed?

The bodywork looks sensational Sheepers. Well managed!

I think that we have found a single new one so we are prolly ok - I will PM you if we get stuck. Thanks for the offer.

Dude - working outside at night in the raining Wellington winter whilst lying on the wet ground and grinding shit into your eyes = only for hard cunts. Chur. You are bullet proof.

It loks really clean. Original owners handbook still in the footwell pocket = FTW

I always spam tech threads - but hey.

They are stunning if you get held up at the start line with a red flag. The circulate at the same rate (60 litres per minute I think) regardless of engine revs and it is when parked that engines can get really hot IMHO. I have removed the impellor from the mechanical waterpump and only use it as an entry port for the water. That also buys you extra room between the radiator and the front of the engine for an electric fan. Keeping the superior mechanical fan would be a bit tricky in my scenario. The EWP just hangs in the bottom radiator hose - I have not mounted mine to the body at all and that has not caused me any issues to date. They are about the same price as a cheap alloy radiator (like the one I bought on Sunday off TardMe) Edit - the EWP circulates at 80 litres per minute. http://www.daviescraig.com.au/main/display.asp?pid=47

I may sound like a broken record and this does not answer your question but the best cooling aid I EVER fitted to my race car was an electric waterpump from Davies Craig and available from Repco.

That is a sensational link Boe. Strange they don't mention Pozidrive, square drive etc. though.

What suburb did you choose Boe?

You need a thin wall socket. Either buy one or turn the socket you have down in a lathe.

I don't know your motor at all so I can only speak genericly. There is most likely either a lip seal (round) or possibly a rope seal (two half rounds) that should keep the oil inside the cam cover. The seals go hard with time or just fail. If your PCV valve is blocked pressure can build up inside the engine and will find the weakest point - given that your engine was probably still cold when it started to leak oil I would expect your seal has just failed and the PCV has nothing to do with it. To fix the issue you must first be 100% certain where the oil is coming from. The cam belt could be tracking the oil from somewhere else. If it is just a lip seal a new seal will be something like $16 - and probably 45 minutes or so to fit. With luck the new seal can be fitted without removing the cam cover - if not then you had best allow for a cam cover gasket too. Regards,

Got a photo of the engine? Could just be a lip seal.

Looking choice. I was up your way in the weekend and kept an eye out for you but nah. Sick I guess. Had lunch at Mondos on Sunday by the Town Basin. Lots of 19 year old girls with bottle blonde hair.

Any news Durty?

You are probably refeering to Snow Hansen - trading as Kiwi Cams.

If you want a flywheel made I would recommend Collier Motor Engineers in Levin. $400 ish is about right - plus ring gear. You give them the crank and ring gear I guess. You never know - Rob Collier is a Jaguar fiend himeslef so he too may have something lying around - But call the Toy Shop first.

Flange - Have you had a sniff around the Toy Shop's spare parts bin?

^ Porn. Is that a Quartermaster V Drive clutch? Sexy and such a tiny moment of inertia

^ Flat head FTL. As an aside - you do all realise that flywheels weigh X many kgs for a reason I suppose. Regardless of the saftey factor excessive flywheel mass reduction = less driveability. 12lbs is as light as I would take a custom made steel flywheel on an 800kg car - but I am no expert in these things. If the car weighed 1,100kgs I would be thinking more like a 18 lb flywheel Peace

LOL... I can't believe Olie still runs that place. I knew him in about 1983 when he was building a hard out Model A race car. I was just a kid of course.............

Cable tie = to fasten the rubber dust boot that covers the brake pedal rod? Pert phones FTW Lol.

If you don't want to piss about with T connectors just blank off two of the ports. Chur cunt. Edit - I have not seen a PERT phone for about ten years! Double Edit - I re-read post #1 and you actually want four ports so whatever. I am a reatard but at least I am old.

I had a word to a Volvo Technician about your problem last night. The waterpump is driven off the cambelt and best practice is to change the pump at the same time as the belt but most techs will give the pump a spin and if the bearings feel good they don't bother as the pumps are a few dollars. It sounds like you have changed the waterpump already so that is good news. The other likely candidate is the cambelt tensioner - they are known to fail and loose tension suddenly on occasion but another issue can be the way they are tensioned when the belt is changed. The tension is done manually (by hand) and then locked off I think. A genuine Volvo belt comes with a small spacer that is inserted between the tensioner and it's ecentric cam (I think). The spacer serves to prevent the belt falling completely off if the tensioner fails. Now the bad news - they are an interference engine so it is extremely unlikely that you have not connected a valve with a piston. Sorry mate. Disclaimer: I was drunk when listening to the above and the prick telling me about it was drunk too so we could be full of shit.

Does the cambelt drive the waterpump too? If so the pump might have siezed causing the belt to shred and you possibly don't have any comback