Jay GTi

Dropped an aircleaner nut into the carb on my old KE36, I knew it was in there because the engine turned 1/2 a revolution and then locked solid. If something has dropped down into the engine, you'll know.

I don't think the photo is of his car (I hope not anyway), but more a question as to what the big bars in the pic are and would they help him. They are traction bars, also agree with Sholdowa that they are there to stop axle tramp on leaf-spring cars, but that particular design is an ultra-low tech solution that is only really good for the dragstrip, as it would promote axle-hop under hard braking. Traction bars like you find under Shelby Mustangs were fixed at the front point of the leaf spring as well, not left to hang like that.

Yeah sorry, it is an injected G200Z. Interesting you had the same problem and the megasquirt didn't cure it. Might get the injectors cleaned and double-check any vacuum hoses or similar.

Oh and before anyone says it, yes I know the real problem is it's an Isuzu Piazza...

I've recently bought an Isuzu Piazza and have been running around in it over the weekend to make sure it's all happy before I give the keys to my missus (officially her car). Overall it's all good (apart from a freshly cooked A/C compressor, but that's another story... ) but there's a slight but definite part-throttle hesitation when trying to accelerate slightly, like when going up a hill etc. Stick in a bit more boot and it clears and runs fine, but it's annoying. A mate who knows nothing about EFI and is more a carb man reckoned if it were on carbs he'd start looking at the vacuum advance, so could be an air leak somewhere (plugs, dizzy, rotor and leads all good), but any other suggestions are welcomed, as I can't see anything obvious.

Nah, got rid of the Chevette diff and the brake lines off that weren't looking great so thought I'd just get new lines done. I really only messed up the 2 lines because I was being dumb... As for the shocks, just tried to measure them for you but can't find my tape measure. Will grab one off a mate and let you know.

Hmmm, project taking a little longer than planned.... But back working on it when I have the time. Got the Gem diff, swapped the mounts over from the Chevette diff (well I didn't, Diffs'r'us did... for $500!!!). Painted it in black Por15 and started putting new brake lines on it. Surprisingly difficult job, I've fucked up 2 already and had to have them remade. Also got some shortened Spax shocks, suitable for 50-80mm of lowerage. Got a mate in the UK to sort them out for me, cost about $700 all up including freight (which took 3 days!!), so not too bad. Also started painting the interior as it's generally tidy but just a shit colour. Worked well so far, apart from one can of interior paint being grey, despite it clearly stating it's supposed to be black. Still not got tyres on the Superlites, wanted to replace a couple of boards on the deck out the front of my house but discovered the whole thing is pretty much rotten so need to replace that instead. Wife seems to think sorting the deck out is more important than tyres, so budget has again been re-appropriated... Also got spare Chevette head being crack tested and will most likely have a quick skim and valve guides done if it's all good. Will have to stick with the 1256cc of raw power for a while yet, as due to other budget re-appropriating, someone seems to have spent all the engine swap cash. Also, some cats, yesterday...

as in what looks like has been done here (same dizzy location problem on the C20XEs)

can't you just coilpack it and run a 60/2 etc flywheel and sensor? not saying that as in you're a dumb shit, do it that way... just a genuine question as there's the same problem with the 20V 4AGEs.

i seen a gtir engine in an s13. Dnt know how but yeah. peeps do do it Yeah you can pretty much do anything with anything if you've got the skills/money, but I imagine starting with a RWD block would make life a whole lot easier.

GTI-R (red) is best in terms of outright performance, quad throttle bodies, mechanical bucket and shim tappets, under-piston oil squirters, T28 tubby etc., buuuut... as far as I've been told (never tried this myself, just taking it from a well-known UK GTIR/200SX tuner who told me) the FWD blocks are different to the RWD blocks and they don't have anywhere to easily make up mounts to get it face the right way for you. I was recommended taking a GTIR head and throttle bodies and put them on a S14/S15 block, then bolt up the S15 roller-bearing T28 turbo and finally stick an S14 5-speed behind it all (not the S15 6-speed, it's weak). I had planned on SR20DET'ing a Mk2 Escort at one point, this was what I got from my research, so should be correct (was asking people who should know) but can't gaurantee it 100%.

Don't know what you mean, this looks like perfectly normal cornering behavious to me... Inherent problems due to the swing axle design. Under extreme loads the outside rear wheel would not just tuck under as per the photo, but actually collapse in on itself. Was the same for early Spitfires.

Indeed, was lucky enough to be a passenger in a Radical, driven by a Radical racer... all I can say is 'fuuuuuckkkkk'. In fact it took me about 1/2 an hour after the ride to be able to say anything other than that....

Ah did not know the engine would need to be running... I've made my own dipstick for an engine before using that method, but being a boggo wet sump, it was simple. These slush boxes are complicated buggers.

In that case A. Skip the drain part B. Could you not remove and block off the external filter and cooler for this exercise? Also, if there are many different pan sizes available for the C4 then surely copying or stealing one from another C4 isn't going to be of any use either, unless you can gaurantee it has the same pan?

Yeah that's what I was on about, you can easily find out how many litres should go in it, so drain it, stick that in and measure.

Couldn't you make your own decent one by making sure the correct amount of trans fluid is in there then measuring the level?

I know, I was just being dumb... but really it's such a simple swap, being that there were factory pinto-powered Escorts, that any garage can do it. Just rock up to a couple in your local area and ask what they'd think the job would cost. Best option, get someone on here to help you, ply them with large quantities of free beer and learn something in the process. Give them the beer after they've done the work, not during though...

Continuing on that theme... yes there's lots, they are generally known as 'garages', sometimes if they are flash, they are called 'workshops'. try http://www.yellowpages.co.nz and search for either.

How much did you pay for the tyres? Got to get some for my 13x7 superlites soon.

I wanted to to a cheap matty-b job on my bonnet where the paint has crazed, to stop further damage before I get the whole car painted properly. The guy at Wairau Paint Centre told me to avoid cheap aerosol paint jobs at all cost, as not only will it look shit, but it will cause a lot more grief when it comes time to paint it properly, as all the crap that goes into the can along with the paint will make a really nasty surface to try and prep later. Do it once and do it right, or just don't do it was essentially his advice.

I know it is possible for some motors - for instance the Fiat FIRE 1000 (from Uno) and 1100 (from Punto's) were designed in conjunction with Kawasaki and are used in some bikes. Another issue n one has mentioned yet is bike engine sumps. Bikes don't incurr much lateral g because (a) they lean over and ( they don't have the tire area thus grip of a car (hence the different racing lines of bikes vs cars). As a result most bike engines require modifications to their oiling system when put into cars.[/code] most teh bikes that i have pulled down have some of the most impresively baffled sumps ive ever seen Perhaps, but almost all bike engines that end up in kit cars that then up as trackday toys need dry sumping. Most are fine on the road however.

From Wiki re: the Pinto safety problems...

Magnets? Wouldn't magnets throw the wheel balance off?

Or even better, and I have seen this done (it was a piss-take however), make one out of plastic plumbing tube complete with the elbows and shit and paint it black...