Spencer

Yea that but not looking all shitty, I know we have had this yarn but can you make another rocker cover work with a adapter? or do you mod the turbo covers and go down that route?

Use some side drafts as throttles and hide injectors underneath, I'm sure we have talked about this at some stage.

Do some hidden EFI on the 2J also please.

Yea just do something similar to the guy with the crown on here, make it look old/awesome.

They have made some shit gear, not as much as Mitsi though so its OK.

Never had a M let me down, it's operator fault.

I find this hilarious.

Yes sorry always use a scotchbrite and some lube first to clean up shit.

Dismantle and expect, if they have a big lip they probably need sleeving, a little rust/black shit then hone it, if it looks lush then seals and do nothing.

Depends on the condition of the bores.

Supra deposit.

That one is pretty legit.

Ned you should make a micro for carb guys that does data logging. There is a hole in the market I think, the options around have fuck all inputs and when they do they cost more than a high end engine management. I want to log like 10 analog/digital inputs (wideband, tps, rpm, map, etc) so I can track jetting and timing changes. This kinda thing could also double as a engine warning light when installed permanently so I can ditch the ugly gauges, takes oil pressure/water temp/trains temp and spits a light when they fall out of range. There's nothing like that on the market either (again that doesn't cost 1x moon beam)

Cheers man! lots of work and learning went in, should have got more pics. Had to pad out the update or it gets super confusing.

Take photos and start a thread.

Roman I think it depends what you have now? Paint and dye can restore old parts (black especially) you can repair ripped door cards etc and paint them. New carpet and mats. Epoxy any cracked plastic, you can fix grain pattern at the repair the paint. Etc etc. I'm buying a (cheap, used) industrial sewing machine to make bits for my car.

Its not a scummy Nissan tractor engine mayte, its a high quality Toyota forklift motor.

If its the front main it will be doable in place, just a normal metric shaft seal of some kind. Leak could be form the timing cover also, could do both that gasket and then the front main will be easy to do with the cover off the car. Pretty much a easy weekend job if you have the gear to undo/do up the crank pulley bolt and a decent puller to get it off.

If you have googled that and come up short then it's likely not a common conversion therefore chances of someone on oldschool pulling out the answer in one morning is exactly as you encountered, zero. You will most likely need to scope both of these units in operation and compare if the inputs/outputs are the same (or close enough). Igniters aren't super smart, but as you know they can have varying degrees of complexity that could foil your plan. If you actually want to do it start learning some shit and start a thread maybe.

Oh and if you get the power steer box the columns are different length but you can make the non power steer one work.

No, you need like 40-100amp depending on what the alt is. You can use a modern fuse holder thing instead of a fuseable link which are easy to check/change. Fuseable links are sweet and easy to use also though. It's just a bit of thin gauge wire that is made to burn out at a certain current, but it from the internet or maybe a local shop and solder or crimp in. The alt wire should be a decent gauge you will need a pretty decent crimper to do the terminals.

Cool, happy to help out if you find anything Brisbane ways.

You really have to figure this out yourself. But over here I would watch gumtree, ebay and ask on toymods. in NZ just trademe etc, ask on forums, message other cunts with crowns. You have to hustle to find parts for old cars they don't just fall in your lap, I used to have searches saved on yahoo japan for 60 series crowns (need a few different key words) cool shit shows up on there all the time. It may cost you $500 to get the factory shit but it will be way cleaner and reliable (IMO) over a column mounted electric job that you have to adapt yourself.

Man I would just wait and go for the factory stuff, its not unobtainable you just have to be patient. If you are keeping this thing for good I would track down a mid-sump also, much nicer end result.

These things are kinda just a big k-series, super agricultural and generally just keep going. They come in hydraulic and solid lifters I am fairly certain, so if its hydraulic you need to probably clean/replace them and if its solid you just need to set valve clearances.