Spencer

I just read you want to run 200psi, good luck on a single electric pump. Once you hit like 140PSI it takes about 8 years to move the pressure up more.

Rookie here's my experience with the crown, it had a 5 gal tank and I would run it up to like 160psi, that was just enough to go up from full drop once. It had one decent sized Viair compressor and it took forever to pump up, you need minimum of 2 electric compressors and a well thought out housing for them, rubber mounted in a enclosure that has ventilation to minimize the god awful noise. Crown weighed maybe 1600-1700kg and needed like 90-100psi in the front and 40-60 in the back at ride height. One compressor and a 1 gal tank sounds like the worst thing ever, you will need to go engine driven with a tank that small.

I read about those for Le Mans cars in Race Car engineering. There is for sure efficiency to be had form that set-up, depends on the goals of the motor though.

You can do it Seedy Al.

Na man keep going.

It lasts a few years but I would say that is probably the problem. That is if you mixed it perfect and it was clean and dry that's kind of all that's left, multiple coats too quickly can give funny effects also if you don't let it flash off.

If you followed the data sheets exactly with mixing and thinning then probably dirty surface? you get that look when there is wax and grease or other solvent still on the piece, what did you clean it with?

Depends what you are using? you can thin it down and cheese it on with a 2mm ro 2.4mm tip, done it before. Also you should be cleaning your guns spotless after each use, most people don't splash out on the 2 part underseal so it is pretty easy to clean solvent curing stuff out of a gun. I have something like this for under-seal and wax, except it is a tad flasher and is all adjustable. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YB7WI/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944687562&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005GL5F0I&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1BA21ZK1PYZFV2ATCTKG

4mm! that's like a spray putty gun. If it is actual 4mm then its mostly useless IMO.

Keep up the good work fixing my car.

Yea as you weld it shrinks the steel, you should be stretching it out with a hammer and dolly as you go (after each tack/small section of weld). Hopefully your welds had proper penetration so you can grind them flat and work them into shape.

Dryers can be reasonably generic and should be replaced every time you open the system so get one (be like $20). Then drop the sump on compressor if it has one, some just have a drain bolt then flush that, take lines off and flush until it flows clear, same with condenser and evap flush until clear. Then assemble with new o-rings, add manufacturers recommended amount of oil to compressor, pull a deep vacuum (important) and see if it holds overnight, if not leak test. If good charge and enjoy. A new parallel flow condenser will bump up the efficiency of the system (they are dirt cheap), and how well the R134 works also will depend how your system regulates the evaporator (there's like 10+ different styles in cars)

You really need to flush, new set of O-rings, new oil, new receiver/dryer then charge. Depends what the system is to how well it will work with the different gas. Pretty sure R134 mixed with the R12 oil makes bad stuff.

Just get used to colour sanding.

Yes I think my barge loaded is over their rating, whale car life.

OK so Celica Ra45 (glen) said to go check out Dragway as they do a 5 spoke with a billet center. As with any supreme style rims I haven't seen in person I'm not sure they are right proportions. Might go check them out IRL, I kinda want a set that I can put of my heavy whale and forget about while bashing around on shitty outback roads. They will be like $500 a wheel though I am sure. http://www.dragway.com.au/index.php/car-products/classic-wheels.html

Very cheap if they are. Just keep an eye on the spoke to rim interface and she'll be right.

Yea they are interference fit and bolted as KK describes from from what I have seen.

Its 5500lbs, add 8 people. You do the math.

I have never seen them IRL but the cragar 377 supremes are alloy centre with steel band (this would be my preferred construction) problem is I haven't seen if they look shit IRL and they have less load rating than the steel ones. Tapered seat holes for specific stud pattern instead of slots though.

Na talk in here man it's all good! discussion is where its at. You talking like getting alloy centers made? I can just imagine how spendy that shit would be, either the drama to setup casting or just man up and get billet ones made. The thing with the rotas is they have to make sure they have a market, so they usually make one or two offsets in common stud patterns. For Supremes they have to suit heavy vehicles that come in 3 stud pattern flavours (hence the slotted) and many offsets as all those old barges have wildly varying guard space (and people want different looks) the steel construction means they can cater for all this shit without committing to the costs of casting 10+ different types of wheel. As usual some cunt seen dollar signs and made some that were not up to scratch and ruined the party for everyone.

It's not even much money compared to shitty alloy things people buy instead of supremes that can look terrible on old cars. Those two I posted have the bare minimum to get you by with that design of wheel. The centre is reinforced and they have gussets on the spokes. Some dudes when China shit came online in a big way got some made that were super shit, some had no gussets and some were not welded properly. I honestly think the bad quality China ones are Hard to find state side now, all the big retailers seem to stock the two I posted above (which seem identical IRL). I don't know what else there is to say except don't get reverse ones unless you are committed to building a low rider haha

Buy these, they are good. http://alliedwheel.com/wheel.php?name=Supreme http://www.uswheel.com/collections/muscle-car/products/supremechrome

Yea they are probably fine, the allied and US ones are slotted with welded plates (they look like they probably come from the same place). It's going to be easy over $1000 closer to $1500 to import a set of decent supremes, gotta pay the cost etc.

Like I said just buy the brand names that everyone uses and no drama. Allied wheel and US wheels.