Spencer

Yea man I assumed they mean a big ass hot water blaster thing. A regular steam cleaner will work the same magic on a engine bay with way more work but also more finesse, seen them work magic on real dirty baked on car exteriors (like barn find shit). Steam cleaners are the car retailers magic tool of choice after a good DA polisher. Anyway just some OT ramblings, carry on.

If you are going to own a car then a steam cleaner is a great investment for cleaning it. Small Karcher spec ones wont last for ever but they are fuking magic, mine was under $500. Nothing does interiors better than steam cleaning and microfibre cloths.

Edit- fail post. Carry on.

This thread is great. That Atlantic ECU looks like a late 80's 4age stock ECU with the software opened up, only two injector drivers!

Holy shit dude, so envious of those lush new parts!

Yea man just make it work as is, get the rear end sorted if it already isn't.

No, buy a wideband a re-tune.

I'm sure their manual has the info, I'm too lazy. But you can probably adapt some real nice bike throttles off something EFI and do it way easier, I bought a few sets of bike trottles in the past off ebay (US) for a couple hundy each. They came with TPS and injectors mounted in them which if you can find some with the correct spacing (should be easy, you have some leeway with rubber runners etc) makes this a much simpler swap.

It's still not worth the effort steeb.

If you are spending that money get something you can adjust the vacuum advance, change stops and the springs, Then tune with a knock sensor and you will get the most out of the motor. Use a q-jet also.

You really want to make sure your original distributor isn't a worn out piece of shit before you kit it with some electronic gear. Best to go after market and get something you can adjust the advance "curve" with.

Should delete that exhaust and get a wideband on it, check timing, new plugs, check air filter, then get a supra.

The IRS ones are flappy arm though? He's probably better off.

Yes those also.

Some kind of chambered muffler (preferably a larger pipe size than the zaust) with some pipe after it will make a huge difference.

You are overthinking this whole thing, just use what it has (ITBs) and make a plenum. You can bang up a plenum out of steel if needed, nicer (but less DIY friendly) obviously out of alloy. Job done.

You are brave parking that anywhere near other humans.

Yea Manu just bend it in, have done this a few time times. Are the seals new though? no point bending it in for old seals. Check general door alignment first though, if they have been off there's a high chance they are on crooked and exaggerating the problem. Or not.

Lots of factory cars in the 90's before the newer generation of EFI had some simple little controllers/power supplies to do this. Also PWM controllers to make the pump quiet until you plant it.

How dare you.

I'm giving like a low enthusiasm old man responses but as you are doing basically a full resto you have your hands full with the body. Doing all that stuff in your list could buy you a spare blacktop 4age to sit in the corner of the shed. Save all the money and do some basic maintenance on the current motor like seals and cambelt, they will rev to 8k+ all day long with high km's they just use some oil usually. Buy that aftermarket ECU and learn to tune the stock engine when you get that far it will be the best bang for buck for learning and making the conversion easier. Slotting in a built motor down the track is fuck all, getting it going the easiest and economical way possible should be goal one, get that cert and re-evaluate once you actually drive the thing. I know pondering all this engine shit is the best part of a build but you need to channel this energy into panel work haha Unless you have like $30k put away for this build then ignore me and go nuts.

As said earlier there is for sure gains to lighter oil. Running thick oil without measuring pressure on the engine is silly. Trans is another kettle of fish nut makes sense to run as light as possible. I think I hinted earlier that some drag cars guys use the lightest lubricants possible everywhere (ie no grease packed wheel bearings etc)

Then later on slap a small turbo off the side of it for best bang for buck.

Best value for money on this conversion is probably aftermarket ECU,I would forget working the motor for now NA is expensive. Just build a nice big airtbox for the ITB's, exhaust and headers and tune and drive it. It will be a blast like this.

I had a ke20 with a bluetop, made the 4age feel extra fast even compared to something light like a AE82. Just chuck in the stock blacktop and work out development and rebuilds later I think. Focus on making the conversion look great, being practical and everything working.