sheepers

more has been achieved in the area of welding bits on. Ive got the subframe sitting where i want it, i was going to move it forward by another 10mm but i don't think i need to. the reason i was going to do this is all to do with wheel clearance issues i had with the 23, but none of these rules apply here because the wheel wont move in an arc like it does on a normal live axle car. ill take out the strut and check wheel clearance but i think I'm good to go with where it sits now. the wheel thats on the car in the photo bellow is about 630 in diameter, roughly the same as a 235/40/17. with the car on the ground the wheel moves up about 15-20mm from where it is now (the strut and spring i have is very stiff, ill be changing this but its all i have for now) but thats the ride height I'm aiming for. i have to make some more plates and such for the mounting points and to strengthen up the floor. but the rails are done and there is clearance (fuck all but enough) between the chassis rails and the subframe. so its more upside down welding for me. i went out in the shed last night but i couldn't hold my arms up above my head any more so i had a night of, i need to acquire some 10mm plate and some huge angle iron bits and pieces to make stuff with. i can actually see a light at the end of the tunnel now. hard to believe. and it looks like ill be able to have a back seat as per normal too. sheepers.

no. blow the lines out before you attach anything and youll be fine.

the place that makes throttle cables and the like is behind Wolf muffelers on dominion road. there is a small dead end road just past wolf mufflers, not on dominion road but the other one. the LPG instilation place is on the corner. the place you want has a big sign that says EBC brakes. edit: its akipiro street, of charles street.

its pretty easy to make up brake and fuel lines, the tube can be purchased from Race Brakes, Segidens or Repco, price it up first because it can vary wildly in price. all the fittings you need can be obtained from Race brakes. the only thing you'll need is a flaring tool. you can get a semi decent one new or you can go to the tool barn in the back of panmure roundabout/mount wellington and have a look there. they quite often have good quality stuff for reasonable prices. or you could borrow one, lots of people have them.. sheepers

does it have a foot pedal/if not can one be plugged into it? no and no. my other welder has a foot pedal and they are the shit. but you learn allot welding different thicknesses without one..... sheepers.

where are you? i have a tig i should sell, brilliant machine. its DC but it will weld aluminum on reverse polarity. can supply examples. selling welder = funds for wheels for the 28. sheepers.

passengers side chassis rail is finished. ive used 3mm plate and tied it all in pretty well. i used the old upper control arm mounting point as part of the structure so its pretty strong. ive started on the drivers side and will probably get it 99% finished tomorrow. still got allot to do but its coming along. sheepers.

i will attend. i will ask the boss if she wants to come and be bored shitless by us talking rubbish for two hours. messes S. heepers.

in the olden days they used to bind the leaves by tightly wrapping lots and lots of rope/string type shit around the leaves to increase the internal friction between the leaves. this works, but youll need to have more that one leaf sheepers.

i run redline in my borg warner. (crummywhore VL turbo LSD) its very good stuff. the diff in my car has had its fair share of thrashing, mostly track work, lots of oil surge type shit. still works very well. the guys at Diffs R Us swear by it, in fact im sure they are the agents for it, i think its safe to say they know what they are talking about.......... sheepers.

yea i drive down greenmount all the time, one of my key suppliers is down there and i only work just up the road. do you work at the toyota service deal that down that alley kind of place with the lunch bar thingo?? anywho, wave out or some shit and well have a yarn. sheepers.

well for those of you who think ive been sitting round doing nothing except going "a doop pe do, a doop pe do do do, doopie do" i haven't. and to prove it i have photoshopped up some images that look like progress. the subframe is back together and fully welded/strengthened and ready to go into the car. it fits where i want it to and i reckon its plenty strong enough. i still have to weld up and strengthen the floor and chassis rails but its getting there. half shafts are almost finished and i can start to think about putting it together properly and bolting it all in.. some pics of the frame. i might weld some more bits on it but i don't reckon i need to.... sheepers.

have a search on "club K" i have little to do with these engines but i seem to remember something about the drive gear or shaft being different and having to change them..... not much help i know but it might get you going in the right direction.... sheepers.

ill tell you all about it when i stop in, its all fucking boring i can assure you. sheepers.

i reckon the spline and taper will be the same. the difference will be in the horn button slider and the indicator cancel trigger. most of the early (60's, 70's and 80's) stuff will interchange but you have to modify the indicator cancel bits. i have about 100teen millionty 55/65/85 series crown steering wheels if you want something really crappy and shit. sheepers.

ive seen your crown many times, i deal with Accord Precision quite a bit and drive past your work maybe once a week. years ago (11 or so) Timely tools used to do work for the company i worked for, ive been there a few times. next time im passing ill stop in, unless your boss is a bit of a cunt about shit like that...... sheepers.

looks real good man. you old man seems to be pretty handy with a welder. im pretty keen on the wheels too. where abouts are you located?? sheepers.

you cant anodize all types of aluminum. most cast alloy is to porous and its got (element i cant remember the name of) in it that dissolves in the first pickle stage of the process. best bet is to show the parts to the anodizer and ask them, some will "give it a go" but you might end up with a big lump of swiss cheese. but as a rule, cast = no. sheepers.

good to hear youve got it running sweet. but i think i might have to moderate a 5M-EU into your car because i can. that and moderate an MS57 over the top of it..................... hope your trip goes without any misshap. wont be seeing you there. im going to spend HEAPS of time building my rear suspension. sheepers.

wash the car? fuck that. sparky, do you want me to bring my tool for you to play with?

BURN THIS FUCKING PIECE OF SHIT NOW! BURN IT WITH FIRE!!!!!!!!!!!! but if you must keep this god awful sack install 1FZ-FE, ring Arabs, bolt on 1000HP, win. sheepers

also i have done this to assure no hope of future success. right! how to cut up a perfectly good GTR subframe. first, weld some random bits of steel you have lying around the shed to it in a fairly inconvenient place, then cut some bits off. once you've done this, cut up the bit you cut off into even smaller pieces. if there is any bits joining your two half's together, cut them off as well. then move the bits all over the place so you have no idea where they were and you can possibly put it back together. try to put it back together and fail miserably. by now you should have something that looks like this, and no hope of it ever working again. now that ive created this edifice i have no option but to try to make use of it somehow. there will be more to this story i can assure you.......... sheepers.

been doing some leg work o the compatible nissan half shafts. not allot out there and what will match the GTR splines is on obtainable or to long. so im going to make some new shafts, no biggie, would have liked to find something so others could do the same but its not to be. sheepers.

fucking excellent use of the work cack. escorts not to bad either i guess................. youll get used to the "pinto" thing on this site, were a bit top heavy on the old escort/pinto thing round here. keep us up to date with your mods, looking good (for a ford) so far... sheepers (who is trying real hard to grow respect for all types of old school love, even if it is english)

at this stage i dont know what navara it is. my friend in Auz (who has done a similar thing) told me he went to the local CV supplier and ratted through the shelfs till he found some shafts that would do the job. he said they were Navara as far as he could remember. ill get a bit better idea of what it is im actually looking for (more leg work at various 4x4 wreckers i suspect) then try and scope out a good price for some/buy the ones i find. i thank you for your kind offer and ill let you know if i cant find what im after. sheepers.