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sheepers

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Everything posted by sheepers

  1. cheers for that. ill find out if anyone up here makes them otherwise ill give this guy a ring. sheepers.
  2. sorry man, ill be using them on the front. given that simmons dont make wheels anymore im going to hang on to all the bits i can get.
  3. i borrowed some 1" wide spacers to see if i could get away with wider wheels on the back. the answer is "yes i can!" with the springs removed and the car sitting on the bumps the inside wheel rubs, i can still turn the wheel by hand so its not much, with the addition of an adjustable panhard rod and the tyres being on a slightly wider rim it will give me enough clearance between the tyre and the guard. the plan is to get some 1" wider outer shells for my rear wheels. go the dish. this will give me 15 x 9 rears with 0 offset. ill be running 205 50 15's on the back (this is the widest they make my chosen tyre in). it will be tight but so, so worth it. sheepers.
  4. give us a yell if you need a hand. cut my teeth as a scooter mechanic. sheepers.
  5. yea, what he said ^^^^ about the pics. it wil help people understand what your talking about if you have a tech question. thee are heaps of old english ford dudes on this site so someone will definitely be able to help you. i dont mean old, english dudes who like fords. i mean dudes who like old english fords. except for uncle jake, who is both sheepers. also, this guy wrote, but he didnt read the rules and posted it in the wrong place. so i put it in here.
  6. hey Mark, have you got any definite answer as to what that diff i have in my shed is???? do you still think its TRD? i haven't looked at it since you were here to be honest.
  7. that should be sweet provided your not taking too much off, if you can get away with 0.5mm or less you should be right. when the "mobile disc machining" dudes set up and machine disc's they dont really get to carried away with how much they take off side to side, they measure total width to make sure they haven't gone bellow the minimum thickness, apart from that, they just cut until the grooves are gone. sheepers.
  8. good to hear man, you ll have even more success with 4043 filler rods (i went into the shop today and asked what the correct number is) 5356 are more of a general type for welding sheet and pipe. but good to hear you've got something you can use. i personally wouldn't use grinding or flap wheels because they (in my experience) introduce more shit than they remove, but whatever floats your boat. sheepers.
  9. you need the right filler wire too, its 4314? i think. whatever it is it starts with 4 (thats the only number left i can read on the packet i have) use a 3mm end mill in a dremmel to grind out the black bits. this gets rid of most of the shit and leaves a nice clean surface to weld with. mind you, the only 3mm end mills that come in straight shank are carbide so they are pretty expensive. if you cant use the dremmel, use a file, anything but a grinding disk or flap wheel, they introduce more shit than they get rid of. hope this helps, sheepers.
  10. anything F series. MA61 is the most popular. but they are not common, that "def rattle" was selling one a while back that was fucked, he still wanted moonbeams for it. they are around, you just have to keep your eye out for them. i guess youd pay 400-500 for a good one?? spence, what do you reckon?
  11. sw20 mr2 seats are pretty small, the drivers seat has lots of adjustable bit on it too.
  12. here are some pics so you can see the lushness. new fuel lines and a heat sheild to protect them from the zorst. crossmember and mounts with heat shields (factory). i re-filed the flats on the rack so i could lay it back slightly towards the fire wall. this gives me heaps more room for the zorst and it gets the fluid outlet pipe away from the sump. bit hard to tell but thats how its sitting. motor with a shiny coat of paint and ready to go back in (again) dog is unimpressed. motor in the hole again. ive made up some rails that hang down from the cam cover bolts and are the same shape and in the same place as the chassis rails. this way i can bolt them to the motor when its on the stand and have a good idea of where the rails and steering are when im making the exhaust. i take delivery of a beautiful new AC/DC tig welder tomorrow. its got variable everything and a foot control. im looking forward to making some more alloy bits without having to struggle welding using DC only... with this new toy ill make the drivers side heat shield (for the rack boot and fluid inlet outlet.) and lots of other fun stuff like catch cans and swirl pots and such. sheepers.
  13. the front of my celica runs 2 deg neg camber so its a given that they will wear on the inside edge first. but the pattern makes the low speed steering really light, its made a huge difference. ive only driven on dry road for about 5 mins so far so cant tell you how they feel in the dry but they are definitely a huge step beyond any road tyre ie ever used before. big thanks to Brendon at A1 turbos who recommended them in the first place. sheepers.
  14. i did consider a few different engines, but cast iron and pushrods are the work of the devil(ishly slow) working on in now (actually im making dinner right now but ill be back into it in about half an hour.) sheepers
  15. i bought a set of Bridgestone Adrenalin's, 205 50 15's. ive had them on the car for two days in the pouring rain and they rule. i will see how they go on the track but so far they are excellent. sheepers.
  16. ive been working on this car flat out recently. the motor is all back together and ready to go. traction control gear is all gone from the TB, loom is all stripped and back on the motor. hydraulic fan drive is gone and the cambelt and water pump are new. ive sorted the rack and the crossmember and thats all ready to go. new fuel lines are in as well as brake and clutch lines. i need to make the hoses to go to and from the power steer pump and make up some heat shields for where the zorst goes past the fuel lines. manifold flanges are being made and ill be making extractors this week. im aiming to have the extractors finished by next weekend. then ill get them stress relived and coated. then the motor can go in for the final time. PROGRESS!!!!! YAY!!!! sheepers.
  17. got new tyres (bridgestone adrenalin's which are the best tyres ive ever had) and the car is back on the road. ive driven it around for the last two days and its all good. now i can take it up to Peter's to get the finishingtouches put into the bent bits. ill probably paint it again and make it look nice. its the only car ive ever had that had a good paint job so i might try to make it look good again. i have many plans but i think ill just drive it for a while and work on the other one........ sheepers.
  18. dont get me wrong, im talking street/track tyre. i run R888's at the track and they rule, they are in my will and i have left my shed and its contents to them, but i would be fucking mad to run them as street tyre, as i said in my first post, they are fucking sketchy in the wet, and they dont last to good. i do 55K's a day to work and back. they wont last long. also, R888's track real bad, they will follow ruts in the road, any uneven surface causes them to dive off all over the place. and you cant get the 45 profiles here unless you import them your self. im not concerned with circumference, really only want a fatter tyre on the back with a bit bigger contact patch. the car is starting to spin the inside wheel real bad now the power is starting to increase and its a bit of a pain in the arse. edit: they dont make a 225 50 15. i have spoken to the "man" at bridgestone and they do not. they listed it to begin with but demand was not enough for them to go into production.
  19. fuck this sucks. it looks like the only decent tyres i can get aren't made in 225 50 15, megga gay. do i run 4 205's? my life is about getting the widest tyre on the back i can, this is conflicting, what do i do!!!!!!! i guess ill run with 4 205's
  20. i run R888's on the track and they are perfect for that purpose, but on the road in the rain they can be a bit scary!! i might buy those wheels and tyres though, they are well cheap for what they are.... cheers for that automatic fire man!! sheepers.
  21. im after a tyre that grips like a slick but is ok on the road ie, will last a good while. from what i hear the bridgestones are excellent at doing both. would be cool to find out if there is anything else out there that will do the trick. the car is all fixed bar a bit of finishing work on the bonnet and the guard but i dont have any tyres so i cant take the car up to Peters shop........ let me know what you find out. cheers, sheepers.
  22. im in the market for 4 new tyres for the celica. i need 2 225 50 15's and 2 205 50 15's. i have heard from people whos opinion i respect that Bridgestone Adrenalin's are the go for street and track. problem is they dont make a 225 50 15. i can run 4 205's but i really want that slightly fatter stance (not to mention contact patch) on the back so, can you recommend a set of tyres that preform well on the track but will last a while on the street and are available in the two sizes??? im looking at about 200-250 a tyre so options that are 500 per corner are probably out of my range. any thoughts???????? thanks' sheepers.
  23. my old man bought an X2 HR brand new from Auz, he still had it for a good part of my childhood. it was pretty sweet but by the time he sold it it was fucked. it had done about 40 bazillion miles and it had a 202 in it. still had the factory twin carb manny and the bucket seats. had cragars too. some dude couldn't pay him for a job so he gave him the wheels. some young dude bought it and his eyes were like saucers when he was looking at it, he was so stoked. good days. sheepers.
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