keltik

So the plan is to swap all of the running gear off the yellow brumble bee onto the hatch and have a 4wd 1800 hatchback then lift the shit out of it and use for offroad shenanigans.

The drive from Wanaka to Greymouth was the best drive ive ever done. Would certainly trade again.

Ah, keen to hear what this P plate is now

Why do both your cars have the same number plate?

The shell hasnt sold on trademe. Free to a good home or i'll have to send it to the scrap metal place. Im really reluctant to do that since theres none of these things around - but if nobody wants it - i dont have the space to keep.

9 times out of ten its the switch on the gearbox that packs a sad. I dont know about your van, but on my cars the switch has always just been screwed into the side of the box near the shifter linkages. Usually only $30-40 to buy a new one.

Havnt had reversing lights in my wagon for 3 years now. Really should get around to hooking up the gearbox switch tbh, angle parks are annoying with no lights.

Id start with 35/40 for the idle jets and maybe 175/155 for the mains. I ran 45/45 idle and 175/180 mains on my 2.2 and it was a bit rich. I have a set of jets here your welcome to in various sizes (35, 40, 155, 160, 175). All of my jets came from Pinto 2L 32-36 carbs so theres clearly a lot of variation possible even with the same motor. I should add that im definitely not a tuning expert - i just spent ages playing with the 32-36 carbs on my Subaru.

My only criticism of SU's is the lack of instant punch when you mash the loud pedal. Otherwise they are supremely adaptable and easy. Dellortos are said to be the better built Webers.

What weber carb? What 2L?

The 32-36 is a nice cruzy carb but i would avoid it if you have a sports oriented motor. Go with something like the DGAS or DCOE synchronous opening carbs if you must stick with Weber.

+1 to above statements

Daves mum?

Funny you should say that since the whole cushy ride thing started after i daily drove my EJ18 Legacy for 2 weeks.

They arent adjustable units but can be revalved to suit different springs. If i could just get a pair of front coilovers i'd do it but everyone seems to want to sell me a full set.

Well the shocks are fuckin' expensive Bilstein ones, valving is not an issue - its the progressive rate springs i need to suss out. Will try that Auckland place.

How do the euros do it? My old mans volvo had fuck all travel but had a sweet ride. Its like magic tbh. And BMW seem do be able to pull the same trick.

Yeah but my point is, even with it low - theres still enough travel in the shocks for a soft spring. I guess one solution would be a progressive wound spring but fuck knows where i'd get some made. The fronts are the only issue - the back is dead easy.

Didnt think of that and sold the teins.....oops. Had them on full soft all the time anyways.

I know its not old school but its regarding getting max low - and this place seems good at that. Wondering how i can get my wagon back to low spec but whilst keeping the ride quality. Have used Tein coilovers in the past and they were really good - but a bit too bumpy. Travel isnt a problem since the rear arches have metric tonnes of room and im sure the front are accommodating. Have also driven a wagon with Cusco coilovers and they were really hard. Would love to just shorten the strut and run inserts BUT its one of those silly single piece twin tube Bilstein struts. Macpherson front struts with multi-link rear running coilover shocks. Roll center adjusters are easy to come by so not too worried about geometry. It handled well when low last time. Thoughts?

Finally got the bodywork sorted after mashing the rear right corner at Slipway in April 2010. Much happier now. Also got the exhaust sorted so theres no more rasp on overrun. Now i just want to do a bit more link tuning to get my cruise consumption down and to improve throttle stability around town. Would also love to get it popping on the overrun before fuel cut kicks in. Need to investigate the front suspension next as its developed a nice knock/clunk. Hoping its nothing serious. Might chop an inch off the springs to get the nose a bit lower too.

Im lookin for a ride to palmy that weekend. Happy to pay some fuel if possible

But even with TPS vs RPM (which is what i also run) there has to be a cutoff point set where idle control takes over. On my Link its 0.8% TP and RPM<1600. Or does this thing not run an idle cotrol solenoid or seperate idle trim tables? Admittedly i dont know shit about ITBs.

Do you run a throttle position sensor? If you do, is it still registering closed throttle when you have them cracked for idle. If it wasnt calibrated right and tripping the throttle open parameter (instead of using the idle maps) then i can imagine having these kinds of problems.

Take photo in sepia too for the lols