cubastreet

Nobody seems to be able to help me with rear shocks for my subaru brumby. the oe shocks are kyb, #443354 now unavailable at the bottom they have a 25mm eye at the top they have a stud compressed they are 345mm from the centre of the eye to the bottom of the stud extended they are 405mm any help would be good chur

Well I took it into VTNZ on Vanguard St, just because it was convenient. Right from the start the guys looked twice as hard at it as they did the other cars I saw them do. However, they weren't assholes and didn't fail it because the horn wasn't working very well or the RR wheel bearings could do with adjustment. The only thing was the brake lights weren't working because the switch was stuck after sitting for a year. I now have WOF!

yeah if you want more power and still good idle and low end, go for more lift rather than more duration. Will make the valvetrain wear faster though.

I have an old subaru brumby with the ea81 1800 pushrod engine. I'm going to replace the carb soonish as the old one was bad to start with, and now there's a big flat spot. I have two carbs at my disposal - a weber 34/34 ADF from a fiat twincam and the old trusty 32/36 DGAV. fook me if I'm wrong but the combined area of the chokes is pretty much the same, so I'm guessing each will flow about the same air wide open. Does anybody know how the difference in primary size will affect things? Less low end torque for the 34? Better mid range without having to open the secondary? Fuel consumption? The ADF is mo sexy but I use the car off road a bit so don't want to lose anything in the low end.

Taking my ute in for a WOF this week after I've finished tidying it up a bit. Don't think there's anything much wrong with it, just don't want to take it to some cnt who's gonna fail it for being an old car. Anybody know a good place?

I want that milk float in teh ad!

brushes could be shagged in the sterter too, but usually the hammer routine gets it to go.

That's a really nice recipe for rust. = why i didnt do it. at least it wont make your car twisty. For a drag car or something thats garaged though it might be worthwhile.

I have a real good article on seam welding somewhere on my computer, tho unfortunately it's now in storage for a year. The article also said that drilling a hole in the door sills and pouring expanding foam in makes a huge difference. For the spot welds you don't need to use a spot welder. Just get one of those drills you use for cutting out spot welds, cut through the top layer and use a mig to fill in the hole. Then just grind flat and paint it and it can't be seen.

I believe you're not allowed to make the structure more rigid without getting it certed.

Keep an eye out on trademe, they are getting rarer but come up for a good price now and then.

yer most go for 32/36 DGV / DGAV. there's lots of info on USMB

strait thru boe!

sweet, will be thur.

or make it 6x140

It looks good all cleaned up, pity someone replaced the engine. Stick a EA81 in there, get a couple of mini manifolds made up for bike carbs and a water bypass, EA82T brakes all round and it'll go hard as.

Check all the electrical connections on the coil and distributor, plug wires and the one from coil to dizzy. Could also be a bad coil or plug wires.

google megajolt light jr

Always liked them, even though they look like they threw a van body on an imp chassis.

don't know of any sites, but the library will prolly have a book. oldschool internet ftw

There was a rusty old wolseley or something with a worked engine on trademe a week or 2 ago, guy reckoned it put out over 100hp.

Les at collins recommended that motor rebuilding place on vivian a couple of years back for both engine work and weber jets. I never made it there though.

Tonys quoted me 120 for SPs a while back. Guy reckons theyr heaps better than the monzas.

When I got my 1300 years ago it was lop-sided so I let fluid out the other side and thought it rode and handled pretty sweet. Was wicked fun on the dirt roads. Why not try it and if you don't like it you can either get the work done or get some fluid pumped back in.

SUs are cheap too, ahve a look out on tardme. Larger ones were found in pairs on jags and the rover v8. A lot of people like them cos they're easier to tune than webers. Just one tapered needle to change rather than pairs of jets and correctors.