yoeddynz

cool. What do I look for if i just want to get a sensor for now- are wideband ones all the same- ie bosch ones all the same or different models.

these look great on widened rostyles..

Gas pump? what- how? Wide band will still fit in my boss right? And the innovate items are wideband?

I have a friend who could lend me one- but its the sort of thing I'd like to have myself (to satisfy the inner geekyness in me) In laymans terms can someone discribe the difference between wide band and narrow band?

That's sort of what I'll do too. I'm just setting up my tank welding robot now which I will control from behind the shed...

How about this?... http://www.voltelectronics.co.nz/kits/a ... -cars.html And I'm guessing a scrappy is the best place to get a cheap lambda sensor eh? Are the all the same- my thread installed is m18 x 1.5mm. How much is a fair price to pay?

very clean- love the grey. I agree that visible intercoolers suck big time. And it would look even more wrong on such a class car as a valiant. There are a couple of cars around town- 4 door nissan things- with no front bumpers fitted and big shiny intercoolers with blue hoses. Just gay!

Seats are all done now. As I had the front holes in the right place i just made a jig out of wood and located the rear positions. I then built up little turrets in 3mm steel welded to the plates on the floor, which bolt in place. We both got under the car with it up on stands and gave it a good chisle and brush. The underseal comes of pretty easy as its gone quite brittle. Luckily the floor is really solid! Still has the red primer in most places. I epoxy mastic 'cated?' the underside of the floor let that set over night as well as painting the brackets with it too. Very snazzy. Seats were bolted in place- so nice. No photos as yet of finished job.. I'm waiting for the right light... The next day I towed Hannah in the viva behind our '84 1.3 racing sunny. We went to local exhaust guy who did a wicked job of piecing together a nice system out of pipe work and spare mufflers I had. I hate climbing in and out from under car on axle stands welding exhausts together with no proper bends. Glad to get someone else to do it. Put exhaust wrap on the down pipe as its close to the servo. Plus a M18 x 1.5 nut on down pipe so I can fit a lambda sensor. While he built the exhaust from the front Hannah and I made the most of it being up on a ramp and with tools we took along scraped away as much underseal as we could- mainly at the back where it was thin. Some light surface rust on one side near spare wheel well but otherwise fine. I will epoxy mastic it all. leaving the rest of the underseal down the tunnel for now as its solid and intact. I think I might get it sand blasted later on. Today whilst also sorting out the dud alternator I had bought I took the tank out, tipped 20 odd litres of petrol into sunny, scraped all the underseal off, discovered some mild pitting that I'm glad I found now. I filled the tank with water to the top and drilled a new hole. With tank then tuned on its end, hole uppermost and hannah holding it and filled it up till water came out of new hole. welding away...how do I describe it...booossshhhhh. Ther was till some vapours in there , like sod all but it shot through the pipe and weld leaving a 4mm hole. THis blew my arm which was across the tank up and over me. crikey! That put the jitter up both of us- turned me into the most paranoid welder. I just could believe the affect of such a small amount of vapour!!! It would have been no more than half a litre? Ive now soldered in a new outlet pipe. 3/8. Now my new pump wont be sucking through a straw. Noticed that it doesn't have a breather on tank- do vivas breath through the cap? What about HC vivas? Also today picked up 6 meters of good quality cable for my boot mounted battery. Scrap man bargain- $20 woohoo!

Your old brain was right. It does. Its now got a second hand regulator with decent enough used brushes in it. Best of all it works - cost $50 for the other alternator which I think was off a laser?. Now hopefully the seller front up and pay me back that much.

Well he's got back to me and is happy to either take it back or pay for a part - whatevers cheapest so that's good on him! I'm gonna rummage through the second hand alts at auto electric place and see if I can find a working regulator to fit. I just wanna get my car going! Do any of you guys know what Rx7 this one is off? series 4/5/6? Because there are two different ways to wire the sense wire.

Just received a second hand alternator I bought on trade me for my viva. The listing said... "12a Alternator twin belt pulley took off my car 12months ago Working well when removed Removed because I sold car for parts was going to re use but dont see that happening for a while!! Open to reasonable offers Payment to be made within 3 days of auction ending. Happy bidding " I paid $100 delivered - which is a good price. As soon as it arrived I took it down to auto electric city to get a plug. While I was there the fella put it in the testing jig and found a problem. Its charging- it puts out 15volts. But the 'dash' light doesn't come on. And it will charge without the feed being plugged in. Now he said that alts can start to charge with out the first initial feed to excite the field if spun fast enough. But no dash light? He reckons it will be a failed regulator. A new regulator is $150 for a proper mitsi one (cheap ones not recommended) Or I fish through the pile of alts there and find another mitsi one that has the same reg and swap over. Anyone else had this problem with alts? And where do I stand with buying such an item on trade me? I have emailed the fella earlier and told him pretty much the above - waiting a response.

Cool- Me likey. Exhaust all done now and yeah- I bought a 18 x 1.5mm nut which is now welded on the top of the down pipe about 150mm from turbo. I will plug it for now and work out what I can afford. Really bloody excited- I want to start this car up next week! many many things to do....

cool. Great info. Doing exhaust today hopefully at mates exhaust shop so hopefully i can find the right boss. He might have one:-)

sweet! I'll fit one. where is the best place- I guess anywhere near the turbo outlet on down pipe eh? I found this item... http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/MTXL.php And they have a forum... http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/foru ... ay.php?f=7 waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyyyyyy over my head- I was too scared to evne look at the topics. It seem there are more people interested in this than I thought? Do people actually go out and tune their cars using just one of these alone?

I would like to fit a air/fuel mixture sensor (lamda?) into my down pipe and then put a readout inside somewhere. I imagine this is possible- surely? What is the most common size thread/boss that they screw into and where is the best place to...place it? Is there a nice cheap readout available? Bear in mind this will be about as techy as my induction system will get- I just like the idea that while I'm driving along I can see whether what ratio my engine is running at rather than concentrating on other minor things like cyclists and prams (not that prams should be on the road anyway)

What you need is this..... http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =347997895

On Tuesday I thought Id better get cracking with the brakes. First job though once front wheels were off was to swap the bottom suspension arms over. I had made my own brackets for a sway bar - copied some others lent to me. But I fitted the arms back on the wrong side as I thought HBs had the sway bar coming from the front . So I swapped them across. Then started making new lines through out which I always find to be a very satisfying job. Its the first time I have used steel for brake lines and it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. On Wednesday morning I tidied up the rear drums and shoes- it looks like the rear axle had been very recently fitted with brand new shoes and wheel cylinders too . Then I finally killed my cheap as silverline branded £10 flaring kit -its done lots of cars and our old bedford truck so was just worn out and had to buy a new kit from Supercheap- much better flares. I built new handbrake cables all round as the new Magnum axle is a different layout. Luckily my old viva clutch cables were ideal for the job. I built new nipples on the end by very carefully building up welds on the cable and then grinding them down round. Quite satisfying. Dave (Avengertiger) came over today to help with Viva and get his classic car fix. Cheers man- was wicked and glad to get on the way with remounting the seats! Oh and tempting me and Hannah into wanting a cheap mx5. Such fun. We bled the brakes- and once done a rear union into slave was leaking. I just couldn't get a spanner on to it anymore as it was recessed in so I took brake line off, cut a slot out of a nut, slipped over the brake line and welded it to the brake fitting. Hey presto - extended reach fitting! done up tight and leak be gone. Brakes feel good but wont know till I drive it. Might be a touch soft due to the big 3.3 Victor calipers but they will work well. I could always get the master bored out in the future to the same size as the Victor one. In the afternoon Dave and I started on new seat mounts following the rules as per the cert standards. 3mm plate that we were having to carefully shape to suit the contours of the floor.. Cant wait till seats are back in place. I will soldier on with that job tomorrow.

cool. Dynos are scary first time ya give the car loads with just straps holding it there. I like watching the tyre size grow on the rollers. I too know bugger all about turbo's but reading your thread has taught me more. Good work and congrats!

Here ya go.... a turbo kit for more go go http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 162052.htm

Not a big update really but an update non the less. We have been living in the truck full time now. Its great! We love it. Still lots to do but work has been put on hold until the Viva is sorted so we can have a classic to cruise about in this summer. We decided to Butynol the lastsection of roof as the heat has been slowly making the ply crack- tiny tiny little cracks just on the surface but enough to split the magic treadgrip rubber paint. So that is crap! Dealing with a load of sticky contact adhesive on a hot summers day in the blazing heat 4 metres up is not the most fun job but we are now very happy to have done it- the roof will be very waterproof for a long time! Hannah had the fun job of removing more silicone from the roof capping. We tried to get the cat to help but he was a bit useless- he blamed the lack of opposable thumbs... Tonight while I slaved away on the Viva Hannah cleared out the truck and gave the floor a once over with the belt sander. Now she is out there getting high on fumes while I type this. Its going to look amazing. We have put this job off and its always been a risk- one spill of our posh $7 bottles of red wine and the floor would be wrecked.

Does that record feature on the tape deck work? My dad would love that!!!!

yeah bowl over dave. Plan to be re-fitting the seats maybe. The more help the better! That dizzy idea sounds good. I have a feeling this is going to be a big learning curve! When i get it certified with a turbo does it matter if later on i was to change from carb turbo to injected turbo? Ie will the best slave just say rotary 12 a turbo or will it also mention carb?

Barry Emmes- he worked out of his garage at home eh I'm sure- saw him yonks ago when I got a modded dizzy for my old 2.3 chevette. Bloody knows his stuff! I wonder exactly how the boost retard would be configured?

Yeah- I think the wastegate is set to open at 5psi. But there have been a few overseas who have played with the elford setup and running a bit more boost. This fella from dutchy land emailed me this... 'The 2 dashpot on the rail are indeed for the ignition. You can remove them, just only make sure you have something to deal with the ignition in case the boost goes too high. The only extra electrical bit on the Elford were a interior light dimmer, so there are no electrical culprits. All is mechanical. My engine is a stock 12A engine , out of a stock european SA. I’ve done a lot of modifications on the ignition, intake, SU carb, wastegate and exhaust. With all the modifications I get 230 HP instead of the 160 HP. I’m running slightly higher boost as normal, 0.6 bar maximum. For ignition I run a DirectFire setup with a old-schoolJacobs rotary Ignition system with NGK Racing sparkplugs (B9EGV) The SU carb and intake manifold has been internally polisched to get the best airflow possible. The wastegate has been milled out to the max. I run a own design custom made 3” open exhaust system with 3x 3” freeflow mufflers. The SU is fed with cold air from the intakefilter wich sits in front of the radiator (so inside the nose, direct in the driving air)' I'm just thinking of setting the 8psi switch as a fail safe device incase say the wastegate sticks or something- i figured if its easy to do then might as well?

Ditto- All the webers i've seen fitted never have returns. So long as inlet pressure is the right amount you should be fine.