84_S12

If you are simply changing the 2 pin plug into each alternator as you replace it, be aware that these may have different polarities between say lucas and mitsi types for example. I had similar problems when I changed out my original alternator for a refurbished Lucas, cottoned on to the fact that the DC in was always energised even with the ignition turned off. Cut the stupid plug off, put a couple of female spade terminals on and physically swapped the wires on the alternator... Never looked back or had a problem since.

Should roll to Hanmer/That's why I can't come cos that's where I'll be lol

Stupid Ford ignition modules, all to save ten bucks a car....

The ecu could be in limp home mode, try and get fault codes out of it if you can.

Aluminium can be soldered, with solder. It can also be fusion welded with gas. In both instances you need the right flux and temperature control

Holy fuck a Climatech van lol. Which city are you in?

The analogy is all wrong Stick your cock up your arse, then piss as hard as you can and see how long you want to keep that up for...

QFT

Because an oversize pump will actually recirculate water back on the impeller into the return path so in effect it's doing as fuck all as an undersized pump.

Please review the edited post lol Bearings take a hammering and so too does the impeller and seals. Put it this way: Energy in = Energy out so if you are putting a lot of electrical energy into a pump that is not converting that energy into water movement, where does the energy go? Heat and vibration, both pump and motor killers. I say if you are going to engineer something that is to protect what is important to you (ie the car's engine in this case) then do it right.

Running an oversized pump achieves greater required input power and a reduced lifespan. Nothing more. It is however possible to partially bypass the pump to reduce head pressure (This principle is commonly used in refrigeration systems to control refrigeration effect, and sometimes in jetboat jet units to maintain efficiency at differing speeds) With an undersized pump you can usually stop cavitation installing an I/R valve or flow regulator on the discharge side of the pump to bring it back on it's curve. You could then use whatever radiator is practical and adjust flow to suit based on your pump selection.

The pump needs to be sized for the required rate of flow and the anticipated head or it will cavitate and kill itself, or never achieve/maintain flow as required. The point of best efficiency (BEP) for a pump is smack bang in the middle of it's efficiency curve. Fans also show similar characteristics, and demonstrate very different performance running in free air or correctly ducted/shrouded.

eke_zetec_rwd sums it up Rejecting more heat thru the radiator means you increase the ΔT between the hot air from the turbo and the entering water temperature at the intercooler. Heat is not being rejected at the pump, or any of the interconnecting pipework really either, so the time spent by each litre per second of water in the heat exchanger, where again there is a ΔT between the airstream and the heated water from the intercooler is a critical figure unique to the heat exchanger used. Bear in mind too that the specific heat capacity of water is many many times higher than that of air.

Actually in truth the heat exchanger will have an optimal water flow rate for maximum heat transfer/rejection, but you're partly right in that a greater flow rate of the secondary heat exchange medium (ie air) over the heat exchanger will reject more heat

Patricks Auto Trimmers are also highly recommended by many many people

Jaycar bro Down Sydenham way

How's the thermostat?

http://legacycentral.org/library/litera ... ential.htm from the standpoint of a Datsun 510 owner, but the same principle really

Got any sparky mates with a tone generator?

Quoted for truth (+ post #666 ) The flow of air through the PCV is factored into the metered airflow in most fuel injection systems, much like plumbed-back blow-off valves and as such if you remove it a/f ratios get out of wack.

Personally I would say it's normal for a catch can setup to breathe a mist of oil vapour and moisture, seeing as that is the point of crankcase ventilation? The vapour normally wouldn't be seen because in most unmodified engines it is being reintroduced to the intake manifold to be burned by the engine. I would be more concerned if your dipstick started blowing out of it's own accord.

Check whether your PCV valve is operating correctly. They are pretty cheap to replace so I'd just do it anyway. Also, is the breather on the catchcan actually breathing or is it partially obstructed by oil allowing a buildup of pressure?

Fuckin balls I'm on call again!