-
Posts
14225 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
10
Posts posted by Raizer
-
-
On 01/03/2023 at 16:28, Raizer said:
Listed as 5"/127mm jaw width, it's actually 5.25"/133mm and it's huge lol!
That's the factory included 90mm on the right
Might mill the coolant lip off the back as it's limiting rear travel by about 20mm/might not as I'll lose about the same when I can afford to add a DRO anyway.
The table slots had never been finish machined at the factory, so I spent way too many hours over the weekend Dremeling out the lower sections to get T nuts to fit, the nuts slide through perfect now though! A smarter idea would have been to cough up the $$ for a proper T-slot cutter and actually used the mill to mill itself, but I had dremal on hand so...
- 9
-
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
Finally got my van all back together (would have been much sooner if I hadn't borrowed a Bongo and kept working)
New head, thinner head gasket, all new cooling system from pump to rads, fixed 3 boost leaks (secondary throttle spindle seals are 8-14-4 and I dare say will be fucked in any cable throttle 1kz by now!), rebuilt injectors, new glows, new ATF in the trans etc etc.
Goes so much better than it has in the 7 odd years I've owned it!
Think I may have overdid it with the silicone oil in the fan hub though, doesn't seem to want to disengage until it's cooled off well under operating temp ha
- 9
- 1
-
All the times you told me to mash the birds nest of loom and plugs with my foot probably didn't help that whole situation either haha
- 1
-
1 hour ago, Yowzer said:
They can crack into the oil gallery and things like that. New head reckon injectors new radiator new viscous fan flush the fuck out of the block mechanical pump conversion wind up the boost and fuel three inch zorst no muffler loosely fitted poddy off the front of the blower and send it
I'm at new head, recon injectors, new radiators (waiting for the main one to arrive from CHCH now), new water pump, new thermostat, fresh silicon oil in the hub, new throttle spindle seals to fix boost leak, new map sensor filter to again fix boost leak, new diesel hard lines, new temp sensor etc etc.
Already full 3" exhaust, EGR deleted, catch can, but no poddy though ha.
Manual pump would be nice, need a manual gearbox swap first though.
- 1
-
3 minutes ago, xsinclairx said:
That’s the one Flauski built i think.
Mines not far off res which is still less than it owes me. I was gonna do a Lifan conversion if I can’t get a a100 engine but it’s prob too good for that.@Tumeke is selling a fairly reasonably priced A100
- 1
-
1 hour ago, yetchh said:
Gotta make sure your viscous hub is working properly too as they don't use forwards momentum for cooling, it's all down to the fan, can also get a cooler 72deg (I think) prado thermostat which gives you a bit more time.
Pulled a 88c out today, have a genuine 76c ready to go in, think @GuyWithAviators has sent some silicone oil for the hub too along with a new fan shroud (I was missing the top half) and temp sender etc, once my bank account recovers a bit I'm looking at the 10 blade fan upgrade from the current Hilux etc too.
Latest find today is the auxiliary radiator has over pressured and bulged out at the sides!
- 1
-
The head I just pulled was also a Kiwi head, at least 7 or 8 years old at this stage and had done well until recently.
-
Factory exhaust dump pipe is a big restriction!
-
20 hours ago, Hemi said:
Not really my area of expertise tbh, maybe worn valve guide seals?
hard to tell without seeing eveything.@Yowzer might have a better idea
20 hours ago, CaMpylobacter said:I'd say stem seals in that case.
Also
She's a bit fucked there Jim.
Meant to be 160psi opening, best was closer to 130psi, worst was a good bit less and dribbly + shit spray patterns all around.
Won't skip injector servicing again!!- 5
-
1 hour ago, mjrstar said:
I suspect that the breakaway torque each time you went to creep up on the 105 degrees means there is a decent chance that you'd apply more torque than a single swing to 105 degrees. It might well be like @Hemi says and not matter because the clamping load has been met and that's what keeps the head gasket happy.
If I'm wrong on this though I'm happy to be educated.
That was pretty much my concern too tbh
Local diesel place said figure out the biggest angle I can do at once, then work it so I do the smaller amount first.
So for example I need 105°, if I can get a 85° swing do the 20° first.
-
Just now, JustHarry said:
Doesnt look out of the ordinary
Have done a few 1kz heads now they all have fucked injectors which leads to the heads dieing
Its probably just burning a little oil and the injector seal is probably shit by this point so some oil accumulates in that area . Wang some remanufactured injectors and some new glow plugs from toyota . And with a new head itll be fine.
Have you got a kiwi head for it?
Yeap I'm blaming the injectors for sure, I've been putting off getting them serviced for years and have put likely well over 200,000k on them and I've got no idea if the previous NZ owner ever got them done either.
Had been getting a hot smell when climbing big hills (hot hot not coolant hot) for months now which I'd been blaming on my 3" exhaust being a bit close to something, that with the dump pipe cracking all the time makes me now think the EGTs were getting way up there + the Mrs pointed out we'd been noticing more black smoke for a while too.
Dropping the injectors off to Ireland diesel this morning for rebuild with genuine Denso parts and yeah have a Kiwi head kit here ready to go on, came with a thick grade 5 gasket so once I measure piston height I might end up getting @GuyWithAviators to send down a genuine grade 3.
-
Just now, Hemi said:
Yeah the measurement is just so you get x amount of stretch in the bolt , can do it 5 degrees at a time if you want
Mint as, I thought that'd be the case but it's been 18odd years since I last dealt with stretch head bolts or really any head bolts that take more than 17nm to do up so thought I'd better double check ha
-
One more likely stupid question, torque to angle bolts, specs for the new head is 40nm then 105° then 105° again, easy enough.
But it's a van and there's a big steel structural part over and around the rearmost head bolts, I can't see any way to get a 105° swing in the gap so would say a 50° and a 55° turn in place of the 105° be the go or should I be figuring out a way to tilt the engine etc way forwards to get the full 105?
-
8 minutes ago, shizzl said:
1kz and cracks go together as well west Auckland and crack.
most heads will have some form of cracking in them
Yeah between most people not bothering with the 100,000k injector rebuilds and others not keeping the coolant up to spec they've got a bit of a reputation.
I'm one of the ones that kept putting off getting the injectors rebuilt, big pain of a job in a van, less of a job than the fucking head though haha
-
This feels like it could be a @Hemi question, maybe.
So I'm starting to pull off the head from my 1KZ, 99.9% sure it's cracked etc, started by pulling off the intake and throttle body (think Toyota call it a venturi) to get at the injectors so I can drop them in to be rebuilt etc.
No real oil or schmoo to speak of to be found in the intake etc, mint.Inj 1: bit of carbon
Inj 2: same same
Inj 3 a lot of carbon AND wet oil all over the tip
Inj 4: carbon and a tiny bit of oilSame story with the glow plugs.
So yeah, trying to figure out how/why there's oil there?
Cracked from the cam valley maybe? If it was a ring issue I'd have expected the oil to burn -
Got about 8 years out of my last Chinese head, till my slackness about getting the injectors rebuilt bit me in the ass.
- 1
-
40 minutes ago, Adoom said:
Yes, I have a RF30 clone, a round column mill, so no knee, the Z axis is the quill, the whole head can be raised and lowered on the column, but it will also swing side to side so you lose any point of reference to the part.
There's a few different fixes for this, might not be 100% but apparently this way gets him within a thou everytime
- 2
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
So stoked!
That stand is made out of 1 piece of 5mm+ sheet steel that's been pressed into shape with another plate on top and a plate shelf added along with angle braces etc, very heavy!
Used the drip tray from the MH stand since I'd had no luck in my attempts to sell it, will reuse the rest of it for my drill press.And yes, I need to clean my lathe!
- 20
-
Fuck gassy air con, boost = faster, faster = more air in the window, more air in the window = nature's air con.
Solved.
- 4
-
Come on man, you know it's time to ditch these Hondas and slip into the opulent luxury of the Daewoo Chairman H
- 1
- 1
-
- Popular Post
- Popular Post
So impressed with the new mill, it really does seem to be brand new but from the 80s!
Big chur to @64valiant for convincing me to just hurry up and hit buynow and for picking it up etc along with @Geophy and @Beaver.
Can't wait to get this one set up!
- 24
-
On 01/03/2023 at 16:28, Raizer said:
Anyone want a shiny new mill* stand?
I paid more than I realised at the time for it, but yeah am open to offers and I can probably get it North of Gisborne very soon too.
https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/m135
*Mill, TV, fishtank, drill press, microwave or even an industrial theme bedside lamp stand.
- 1
-
32 minutes ago, Nominal said:
Got your dad to message the seller of the dud one about how disappointed your are?
Not a bad idea!
How good is your memory of Auckland in 1984? You might be able to help finally solve the mystery of who my dad is then we can get him to send a message for me- 1
- 8
- 1
2020 Hiace Van rear seat removal issue
in Tech Talk
Posted
Should do.
I've taken my factory 8 seater Hiace through with 2, 4 and 5 seats fitted and it's never been an issue at all.
Even taken it back for a recheck the day after inspection with 2 less and it was never mentioned.