Raizer

I think your order is on the same slow boat from Germany as mine @Shakotom, dunno WTF is going on, normally it's sub 10 days! Have got a stack of jets en-route to @MopedNZ now, so hopefully he can at least get a healthier amount of fuel flowing for the ride. The middy's leave was denied so I'm out, anyone want to do a park up at/ride from caffeine and classics next month?

Loud pipes save lives! I kinda wish 2t pipes were so simple to make though!

Half my main jets have arrived along with the pilots, oddly they came with a domestic NZ post courier label and an Auckland return address. Thanks again @MopedNZ!! Looks like it's compact enough to fit in the gap nicely.

$25 buy now https://touch.trademe.co.nz/listing/view/1396783781 SCA have new jigsaws for $20 too http://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/Product/Direct-Power-Jigsaw-350-Watt/294364

Carb: http://www.aliexpress.com/BnIFBfMN $10 more than mine, I paid $20.42, but I've just seen the seller I got it from has added $15.50 shipping to it since I ordered Main jets: http://www.aliexpress.com/fqaqmQF3 Pilots:http://www.aliexpress.com/nUfyye2A I've ordered from the seller with the jets at least 6 times now, decent quality.

Continuing with the brakes I pulled the caliper and line off tonight, caliper was pretty well stuck, neither the slides nor the piston wanted to move.So yeah that required a bit more investigationDoesn't look too bad right?So how about after applying a bit of compressed air into the bleed nipple hole?Mmmmm tasty!Believe it or not I'd already given everything a good squirt of brake cleaner and a wipe down with a rag.Gave everything a damn good clean, used some 2000 paper to clean the bore and piston etc, seals were in remarkably decent condition so I lubed it up and reassembledAlso cleaned out the master cylinder and flushed the line, refitted it all and bled it up.Feels like it's working nicely now, decent pressure etc.The Dio line is way too short for the Gyro though, but I've got a brand new 1100mm braided SS line that was too long for the Let's, which should work out nicely!

In a non Gyro related update, I picked up a mower from a local hoarder type character, think backyard full of mowers, weedeaters, pocket bikes, coin operated kiddy rides and just all sorts of assorted junk he's dragged home from who knows where. Anyway while haggling with him over the mower Aaron excited came up and asked about an old generator he'd spotted in the corner. So yeah he's found a Chinese generator with a 6.5hp Chonda engine on it, it's meant to run well but doesn't make electricity, we're trying to find out if the crank output shaft is the same on a generator as it is on a straight out stationary engine? If so for $30 he's got a 6.5hp to replace the 3.5hp on the death kart. Sharn

Yeah mate, this carb takes the standard 4mm Keihin jets, $10 for 12 jets delivered from Aliexpress (or $5 each + courier from Auckland) I've got a wide range of jets on there way now, I always like to have a vast assortment on hand in steps of 2. Got 12 pilot jets as well, so I should be able to dial it in perfect for the new pipe etc once it's on. Found the part number for the caliper kit, at least 100 different Hondas use the same kit so shouldn't be too hard to get hold of one!

"Clearanced" the underside of the front panel thing, might need a few spots of weld to add some strength back. Forks now turn unobstructed, need to make up stoppers too. Had a look to see if I can get the brake working, master didn't feel to be making much/any pressure so it was my first port of call Yummy. If I can find kits, I'll rekit both the master and caliper, braided line would be nice too as well as being easier to route than the thick rubber one. Otherwise it's a brakecleen rebuild and pressure bleed.

AF35 AF56 Drops the forks down about an inch, would never get an AF35 one to fit the Gyro with the fairings

Yeah, the shocks etc I got from UpGarage Riders and the stem came from Yahoo auctions. Almost had an issue with Japan Post as your not allowed to send shocks or wheels with tyres fitted, I was just lucky my friend managed to convince them it was a different shockless set up and that there was no tyre fitted. Thankfully they didn't open the box and inspect haha. Have a look at your frame to see if an AF35 stem will work, there's no way one would have on mine without removing all the front trim, I went with an AF56 stem on advice from Garage HMK who is Gyro specialist.

Stripped the China carb for a nosey earlier, can't find anything bad about it besides the enricher feels a little bit loose when fitting it to the carb, but it still seems to seal fine so it should be mint as. Thought some of you at least might be interested in having a look inside an NZ$20 carby And the $15 torque driver I don't know about any of you, but I'm actually rather impressed with both! Oh and I've still got a few surprises up my sleeve...

As I submitted that last post there was a knock at the door, another courier with a parcel from China this time New torque driver with both straight and curved slots and a 19mm variant of the stock carb, which at first look over is hard to tell its a fake, it's that well made!! Way bigger throat and slide than the stock Dio carb that's on there! Aliexpress FTW haha

So another package showed up from Japan this AM The one on the left, now what could that be? YAY CANDY! Now back to the Gyro, went out to the shed and the front fell off Then another went most of the way on!! AF35 Dio ZX front end fitted to an AF56 stem. Needs a little bit of trimming and maybe a gusset welded in under here, just so I can actually turn lol My stock bars aren't even close to fitting, need an AF35 speedo cable, brakes don't work but they might get away with just being bled as it all looks in good condition.

Got a link to them on Ali? I remember seeing them on there when I was playing with a naked AZ50, but all I'm finding now is really crap mesh covers. Have found a few for decent prices second hand in Japan, but there summer holiday is cocking things up. Still mostly just waiting on parts to arrive, ordered some bits today but thanks to the summer holiday in Japan there not getting sent until the 23rd. Doing what I can while I wait though, after cleaning out my shed yet again I made up a little bracket for the coil so it's not just hanging out the side any more, finished up the engine-frame wiring connections (besides a few cable ties) and rode it around the block a few times. Also had a go at plastic welding the worst bits of the step fairing Not great, but it would do for a dirty old matt black squirt over at least. Also the GC @MopedNZ hooked me up with a lush deal on an eBay/Aliexpress chamber Just missing the headpipe as it was going to go on an old Suzuki Plan is to attempt to turn it into something like this These eBay pipes have a reputation for somewhat decent mid range and a fairly low peak RPM around 9000rpm, I'm going to end up with a longer headpipe on it than stock which will bring the powerband down a bit more, should be a good torquer rather than a top end screamer, which is somewhat what I'm after I think. Might even buy a TIG welder and attempt it myself, my accountant says a welder can be written off as a legitimate business expense since I have mowers and the trailer that sometimes need zapping up... Never used a TIG in my life, fail at mig, so might be a really bad idea lol

Cheers for the link, they don't look too bad at all really, will keep them as an option for sure/buy them anyway cause I'm sure I'll find a use some time. The Stage6 I've got is a Pro/Replica, it was for a Minarelli but I had it cut and welded for my original Frankenstein AZ project. Nice pipe, high RPM powerband though and the real problem is I had it set up for a naked frame and now it fouls the Let's plastics a bit. I'm watching a full set up on Yahoo, with the little rack and the indicators and all, if it goes cheap enough I will get my bud to whack a sneaky bid on it. I'll likely end up with an LED lightbar tucked under the front deck too. Tipped the hydrochloric acid out of my pipe just before, flushed it out with the hose then managed to burn a bit more carbon out too Was just starting to cooch at that point, added a stream of compressed air and it really took off! Pipe is pretty much as clear as I can get it, obviously as soon as I can change to something better I will be! Result: Now time to keep tidying it up a bit and start on the bodywork, need to save a bit more $$ before I can really get stuck into it though as I need to get plastics shipped from Japan.

That could actually be rather useful, my stage6 is too long and would take way too much hacking to fit! First lot of parts from Japan arrived, kevlar belt, variator kit etc... Thinking of grabbing a pair of lights and making a bracket to set the front end up kinda like this Probably not with blue lights though.

What's the quality like on that headlight? H4/PH7 bulb? Thinking I may need a pair

Get a cheap over range variator and a pile of different weights from aliexpress. Takes a bit of trial and error, but you should be able to get the CVT shifting right on the top of the power curve.

I don't even want to think about the mess I'd make trying to do that! Either a steel blob of crap or an exploding mess of water and shrapnel! Pulled the carb, stripped it, checked it all over, only thing that stood out to me was I'd put the oring on the wrong size of the little washer on the mixture screw lol. Fuel pump/vacuum tap doesn't stop flowing even without vacuum, but the float valve in the carb works so that shouldn't be the issue. Had been using a Gyro emulsion tube, changed to the Dio one Gyro, Gryo, Dio. All three carbs had 35sj so I fitted the nicest looking one. 75mj, I've got 2x75 and an 88 so obviously I stuck with the nicest 75. Enrichment valve seat looks fine to me, seal might be a little flattened but not too bad. Put it all back together and... No change. Crap. Then Aaron asked when the degreaser I got on the cylinder yesterday while doing the stator would stop smoking? Had a look on the stator side of the scoot and realized it was exhaust leaking from the head pipe to muffler join, it also dawned on me that while there was a fair bit of smoke coming from this small leak there was next to nothing coming out the tail pipe, hmmm... Yeah the muffler's blocked almost solid again . Pipe is now full of hydrochloric acid and hot water, leaving it to soak over night, fingers crossed it's all of the issue! A super quick blip of the throttle with just the headpipe seems to suggest it is, too late to be running it with no exhaust though haha. Need to sort out a proper pipe ASAP!

Tell her she needs to upgrade to a nice late model Suzuki SJ50QT, I just happen to know of one that she can swap the old Gyro for... And yeah, pics. Lol

That's an interesting combo, I'm spotting AF35 Dio fork and wheel etc, Beat body (one would be cool for my spare engine...), looks to be possibly a Gyro S engine etc. Finally took mine for it's maiden voyage with the new engine, lets just say that while it could have gone worse it really could have gone a LOT better! So I hadn't test rode it since fitting the engine as the front plastics and lights are all off and I've been either working or it's been raining enough to put me off riding during daylight hours. Decided today was the day, fired her up, started first pop and sat there idling happily while I put put my helmet etc on. Hopped on and opened the gas, was bit spluttery but once the clutch engaged it mucked around gurgling a bit then took off (I fleetingly thought it was a bit rich on the idle circuit), it pulled fairly strong from about 5k right up to 45k and then took a few hundred meters to climb to a peak of 50k. I put the initial splutter down to over oiling due to the fact it has rather oil heavy premix in the tank + the pump delivering oil as well. All was going well, I was leaning side to side trying to get used to the much stiffer swingarm pivot (feels spring loaded now!) and then about 1.5k away from home it starts loosing speed and spluttering a bit at WOT, crap! Pull into the local BP and fill it with 95 and go in and pay and explain WTF it is I'm riding to the bemused chick on the till. Took a bit to start then was heavily either 4 stroking or missing right through the throttle range, max sped 30k and taking a long time to reach it! Pretty crap video of it, the second bit I'm holding it back with minimal resistance. As my first thought was fuelling I whipped the carb off and checked it was still clean, it was spotless, I still gave it a blast with cleaner and compressed air to be safe, swapped the 77mj to another 77mj I had just to rule out the slim chance it had been drilled or something. Made no difference. So next I started down the road of possible ignition/wiring issues. Since the CDI is still the stock 1983 issue it was my first point of investigation, took the cheap "racing" CDI I've got and added a plug from a chopped up Chinese loom so it plugs right in to the stock loom. Started fine with it, sounded a lot better at low RPM, max speed 20k and still a lot of spluttering. Next we pulled the cover and fan off to check out the pulse coil The rust was so bad the pick up on the flywheel was scraping the sensor when it passed! All the magnets and the coils had crusty rust built up too and something had made a nest in behind the coils, thinking about it there was chucks of something like the nest in the blocked exhaust too lol. Not perfect, but good enough for my uses. Again no change, other than the dry scraping noise I'd been trying to ignore is gone, might have started a split second faster too. Then I added a couple of plugs and tidied up the wiring a lot, it's still rough I know, but before there was a mess of bad connections and stuff like squashed female bullet connectors wedged into other female bullet connectors, only intended just to get it running No change, fuck it I'm done for today. Tiding up and since I had the socket in hand I pulled the plug, just cause As I first thought, pig rich! I'm now wondering if the enricher (choke) is actually turning off at all, or if it's just staying wide open and causing the 4 stroking etc, could explain why it's worse once it warms up too. Also, again just cause... That'll take some cutting and cleaver welding to squeeze in! Got talking with the tuning garage in Japan again, he's put me onto these Talking $400 just for the pipe and domestic shipping though, so closer to $500 delivered in NZ No thanks, I'm sure I can buy enough beer to convince a friendly welder to help out for less than that! Also package one from Japan should be in NZ tomorrow or Monday, package two is being tapped up ready to send in my bud's "scooter bedroom" in Japan right now, so 4 days for that...

That doesn't sound good, I'd be whipping the wheel and clutch off and checking in the gearbox. That slot in the bearing cup is what turns the speedo drive.

I mentioned the belt too, if you want a nice one/cdi/decent variator let me know before I place my next WeBike or Racing Planet order and I can add it and save you shipping. You will be hard pressed to get 70 from the stock variator, it's just physically too small for it, Malossi multivar would be my pick for them, think crap S-Drive is the only one available in NZ (it's a different crank to any other Scooter besides Street Magic, there's not many options!).

No stress about the measurement, kinda gone a slightly different direction... /Still curious though, so what I wanted to know was if it's 95.5 max drum and if run a straight edge across the drum how deep in the drum is the speedo drive.