cute wee gem

Just do it and find out, can't see why it wouldn't work. Check AFRs with a wideband once it's up and running and it should give you a fair idea how safe it will be (maybe adjust fuel pressure to suit if it's close), then it's up to the factory knock control (which I assume they have?) as to whether it'll blow up or not The engine itself should be plenty strong enough. Edit: maybe make up some det-cans for your own knock control (google it)

All my car stuff is at my olds house in the Wairarapa. We built up a ramp with dirt to get cars into the woolshed (about 1.8m from ground to floor) which is where I do most of my work. The coupe, Bellett and dad's Capri live in it at the moment. Also there's a lean-to off the side with a rough concrete pad where the tractor usually lives, but it's full of JZX at the moment lol. The other sheds are all farm stuff, oh and our half finished car trailer. The colour looks ok, it's just the pearl is streaky/blotchy and in certain lights (most) it looks horrible. Gotta learn the hard way I guess!

So I've been working pretty hard on this since the last update, but have got no pictures of the progress. Painted it, which was a complete fuck up and now looks terrible (my fault for experimenting/not knowing what I was doing with pearls over base) the panel work is a million times better though. Made an exhaust, a full 2.5" mandrel bent system with a coby at the back Got it legal, and have been driving the shit out of it. Completely re-did my timing and fuel tables and it's starting to run pretty good now + A million other bits n bobs, driveshaft loop etc Need to fix a rather annoying oil leak which doesn't look easy to get to, the exhaust also has an annoying rattle, the panhard rod needs a quick adjustment, and the front brakes need a skim. Managed to get this on Julian Cheers' last day before the holidays, phew! (Thanks to the Torana springs taking 2 weeks to get here, luckily they arrived and I got them in the night before) Took a trip to the beach for a spot of fishing. Resulting in a broken sail line losing 10 hooks, the sail and only pulled up one scummy red cod, gutted! Car ran well though except the pile of stones on the front crossmember and a little guard rub due to the extra weight

EDIS aren't as common here but they are around, I've only seen 4 cylinder ones for sale on TM. Quick google came up with this, too easy? (I'm not sure if it works with your setup or not?) Edit: http://www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=66&products_id=202

I just had my car done by Julian, how come you don't want to go back? He seemed pretty casual about my car considering it's a piece of crap lol

You can actually run dual tables, i.e. one table for 0-100kpa (idle to full throttle) and then say 100-200kpa (0-14psi boost) with MS 16x16 seems to be plenty for your average engine IMO and most people don't bother to use dual tables..

Send your old one back to auto clutch and tell them it didn't handle the abuse and to make you a better one? The clutch I got from them for my Gemini looks much better quality than exedy.

You have permission to kick me in the balls if I don't.

Fuck me, it's been soooo long. I promise you, D, there will be an update in 2013!

It has knocked on startup for about a year and a half now, then finally it started knocking while driving a few weeks ago but I kept driving it and it kept getting worse. Towing a trailer full of scrap metal really killed it. I managed to get it home heel-toeing to keep it from stalling/seizing at idle/between gears. Went bang up the driveway and coasted nicely to my usual parking spot haha It was also a surprisingly quiet death. I just hope it hasn't damaged the sump as I need that bit for its new engine

Something seems a bit out of place here?

Good work dude! I love this kind of DIY stuff.. one of the more interesting projects on here for sure, keep it up.

260kw is quite a lot though, even the W series boxes can die with that much power

I think the 1ggze in my old gx71 had a 1geu sump, could be wrong though.. The other option is to cut a little bit out and weld a recessed bit back in, or just bash it if you're rangi and it doesn't interfere with the oil pickup/anything else

Lack of vacuum makes it hard to tune with a map sensor like most normal setups (speed density), so you will probably need to use alpha-n which is tps/rpm based code. Not sure on the answer about the link.

They have an autotune option as said earlier, you have your main fuel table that you set yourself then you can have an AFR "target" table which autotune will use to fine tune your main fuel table, easy as. Just keep an eye on the AFRs manually so you don't run it lean or anything silly.

Currently tuning my megasquirt 2 and I think it's sweet so far. I've had a few headaches along the way (assembled it, wired it etc all myself) but I think it has definitely been worth it for the things I've learnt. Wiring it in is relatively easy but setting your engine up in the software takes a fair amount of reading depending on your ignition setup as anything out of the ordinary can be tricky. Fuel setup is simple. The newer tuner studio is a lot better than the old mega tune software (apparently) I find it pretty easy to use. In saying that I've never played with any other ECUs Stay away from the relay boards for the MS. I'm running one and the connections are pretty shit and there's not really enough connections on it for most setups. I've made mine work but next time I'll do it some other way for sure. I'm definitely using one on my other projects, and I think after you've done it once it becomes so much easier as everything starts to make sence I've got a e-manage ultimate (piggy back) for my 2jz and it looks ridiculously easy compared haha. A few wires later, select engine in the options and you're good to go.

Check fusebox for rust. Check that you have 12v at the S wire and IG wire when key on. I had heaps of trouble wiring my internally regd alt in the Gem and all I ended up doing was jumping IG and S together so they were both 12v. This was a few months ago and I have terrible memory so it might not be entirely accurate, just make sure you don't make it overcharge like I did at first. I assume you're checking voltage with a multimeter?

With the 1J I jacked the front of the engine so it tilts back and got underneath with a really long extension to do the top bellhousing bolts, they're fucking cunty to get at from the top and found this a million times easier. 1G/soarer might have more room up top. Edit: with gearbox crossmember unbolted and on a jack for max angle

Have you wired the IG on the new alt or just the original S and L wires?

Glad to see you're happy with the wheels, they didn't have much use at all on my Mark II. Should look sweet on this beast

Also interesting you say the aftermarket ones leak as I was going to buy one for the 2jz, are there certain brands that leak you know of?

Did you try welding the TB at all? I took the iscv off a 3sge TB and it welded up fine but that one does look rather horrible

^^ this guy knows what's up