cute wee gem

plus it helps get rid of the sloppy rear end these have. if you care about that, I'd get the solid subframe and diff bushings too.

2 birds, one stone? saves doing the bushes when you can just use these http://www.xcessivemanufacturing.com/ONLINESTORE.html?cid=61&step=4&pid=257

Actually scrap that, dizzy plugs are retarded too. Carry on

Can you order twincam style leads seperate? (I've only seen them in packs) something from like a 2jzge has ultra long leads as the dizzy is miles away from #6 - find the correct length and order 4 of them? Edit: that may be cunty as twincams all seem to have retardedly different moulding bits. hmm

yes

Not something silly like a fuse? not sure if they have a separate fuse for injectors or not? Perhaps check continuity between the ECU injector pins and injectors. Is the fuel pump running when cranking? Got a spare ECU to try?

You may not need to get shit made. It all depends on what you want out of it, until you actually know the answer to that, then you're fucked. Deck height is piston top to top of block. i.e if your piston is flush with the top of the bore your deck height = 0

Things like compression ratio and so on can be explained when you give us a goal as to what you want from your engine. i.e do you want a turbo street engine with mild boost and good response, a drag turbo setup with lots of boost or do you want to build a n/a screamer (don't use a 7k for this lol) or just a mild n/a streeter?

Why don't you pull a 7k to bits, and then report back to this thread asking certain questions as you take it to bits and build it back up? If you're looking for more power, then let us know your goals (at the very start) as it will help decide (and so people can also explain why) First thing you should know when pulling it to bits, is to keep everything in the correct order that you plan to keep. (i.e main bearing caps 1 to 5 in order they come off, pistons in order 1 to 4 and which way faces the front of the block (piston tops and bearing caps are some times stamped, if not do it as it makes life so much easier) And be super careful not to scratch the crank journals and bearings when you pull pistons and crank out - if there is a lip in the top of the bore you can break rings also (may not matter depending on what you plan to re-use) These are some things that might be over looked, pulling one to pieces takes a few tricks too.. We can't tell you how to dissasemble/assemble an engine in one page, so break it down in steps and then nothing will get missed out or fucked up.

Made a little progress this week on the turbo manifold. Need to trim #1 as it's only 5mm from the strut tower. #5 is a little short and sharp, but there was no other way to do it as I needed space for the dump pipe. I'm trying to make a "proper" twin scroll setup, but I'm a little confused as to whether I should go for a big single gate, or twin gates? (space could be an issue) Thoughts?

those wheels are sweeet

Or just let it get chipped like a real car/one that gets driven? Paint's cheap.

So the last week or two I've been doing some work on this shit heap. Cut out an exhaust flange first Budget drill press with CRC as cutting fluid worked a treat. All cut out, fitted and ready to port match Port matched to head and also to steam pipe size which is a little bigger. Mocked up turbo in the correct position Mocked up on the 1j for final fit. While waiting for the steam pipe bends to get here, I cut the plenum off the intake runners. Welded on a bit of plate, then cut some trumpets down. Welded the trumpets on, most of them warped a little but should be fine. Ported them to the runners. Wasn't as nice looking as I'd hoped, but it'll be covered by the plenum anyway. Steam pipe has arrived so the next step is to start the merge collector and I also need to buy some 4" aluminium tube for the plenum and a plate for the throttle body mount Someone donate me a mill and a lathe please, cause this shit takes fucking forever with my shitty tools. I'm also looking at upgrading the compressor size of the turbo to 60mm (up from 54mm inducer) the hot side is 12cm2 (roughly .89 a/r) so that should be sweet for my needs

Can you pull the needle off the mount/pin in the factory tacho and put it back on at 150rpm less? I had a similar issue when I fucked with my gx71s tacho.

I aim to triple that HP figure

Bad oil pressure on start up escalated into blown big end. Oil pump looks ok so I'm not really sure why, probably just poor maintenance and too many skids? It was also really tired (275km) Made a pathetic 144rwhp last november lol and has always been had real bad compression on #3

Bad phone pic of the 2jz-ge I picked up a year or so ago along side a Holset WH1E, as it's the only picture of it I have complete (currently fully stripped) Took the broken 1jz out Pulled it to bits, and stuck it back in for mock up purposes. Sold the gearbox setup to upgrade to R154 later on. Few pics of the destruction, cause everybody likes broken shit. Snap crackle aaaand pop Pretty lame update I know, but I've been buying some bits to make it a little more exciting soon.

Only starts with start ya bastard sounds like you have a fuel issue to me? Surely being PP wouldn't make that much of a difference timing wise to not let it start, I've never played with one but that sounds odd.

Probably find an old VR sensor and trigger wheel cheaper than electronic ignition for a K series? Nice work Nedulus, you going to inject it? Edit: nevermind seen the bike carbs

This shit is awesome as fuck.

Mushy grey sounds like wrong polarity or not enough gas IIRC (could be wrong but I taught myself and have been through all this shit) That DC electrode trick sounds awesome though, never heard about that in my readings!

Turbo melted the paint on my bonnet, so I got a beanie for it. Here's an out of focus photo. Keen to get the cam ground to let this thing breathe properly, as it runs out of puff soon after it hits full boost. 450cc injectors are only at 65% duty cycle so there's room for more boost as well. I'm also in the midst of making some DIY knock control so I can give it some more timing without killing the pistons, keeping in mind it's all I've got to get me to work!

Keen to hear how you get on with the Holset, I've got a WH1C 12cm for my 2jz, but thinking of going bigger, or perhaps using hx40 compressor side if it's possible? They are definitely very well built and sturdy as shit.

I've got a chinese civic rad in the gem and it's quite good considering the price, even welds nice etc

Balls out, I like it.