tortron

The mercury switch is supposed to be so the alarm shuts up if the car is on a towing angle

Slow blow Vs fast blow I think it is

Supercheap carries narva ones

2k white will be cheaper than spray cans

Said it's had bodywork, assume respray. Probably povo spec cos used Toyota fridge

Last couple paint jerbs I have used carmaster 2k primer over existing base and clear paintjob before blocking back to remove shopping trolley dings and chips. Then base coat over that. Will say on your data sheets what kind of grit to use. Primer usually sticks to anything from 240 to 600. Depends on condition of existing. I used 240 to remove all the clearcoat from panels where it had started peeling. Then 2 coats of primer (not highbuild/filler) which was enough to give a scratch free surface. You can then do a wet on wet topcoat with it(the one I used check your data sheet) It has a 24-48hr or so window where the base will stick to the primer so you don't have to scuff it back. Depends how good the existing is, if it's good, scuff some back and try some 2k white to see if it sticks. Probably will if it's a good factory paint that you have cleaned 6 times and dewaxed

The oil in the dashpot doesn't come in contact with any seals or run through the carb. The dashpot piston is brass and seals by fit in the carb body. It won't really effect you tuning it anyway it's mainly there to help smooth out changes in throttle position while driving (stops the needle slamming open or shut, like suspension in a car) Plenty of Barry yarns about fine tuning the perfect carb oil. Sewing machine oil is a bit too thin, I have some genuine SU oil here but have used pretty much what ever was around at the time before

Any bike.has the potential to be a push bike. Shitty 2 stroke bolt in bicycle rally?

Suzuki is picking it up tomorrow. Will see what they say. It would be a struggle to say that my changing the handlebars and rack has voided the warranty so maybe a new frame? Might not even be economic for them to do that by the time you swap everything over. If they want to weld it I'll be asking about how the other more structural welds were inspected

Push the bike up on top and strap her down bro, no ramp needed

You would have to run it through a model T gearbox

If you recessed the engine you could get the crank pulley inline with spindle. The back of the engine would be behind the dashboard still Would have to lose the heater tho, so your call

I like everything about this

Except not a load.bearing part of the frame And also.within limits (probably)

Design is fine Execution/quality of material/QC There's billions of OEM ones going 20 years on them no issues

I noticed a small.leak on exploder a few weeks ago. Small leak untill I touched it and the bottom tube blew apart and dumped it's guts on the driveway lol But yea also one I had go was split plastic. Both being 20 or so years old

I for one am shocked an appalled by the quality of the cheapest bike on the market My jap gn250 didn't have any frame issues and I treated that like shit

Plenty of factory rads are aluminium with plastic ends.

More that they were spattered, and that the paint wasnt stuck to the flux. But yeah got crack the whip on those 12 year olds with cardboard masks

Only.just noticed it tonight, haven't even ridden it since lockdown. So sent an email.and pics to the dealer to get some convo going and go from there

If it was the exhaustount broken I would be like yeah that happens Not the frame tho, that's not ok

Never been raced m8 All those roads are on the map

So I think Suzuki is Gona give me a 2020 model Can't even get 12 months out of a frame

Engine cover on the floor of a van

Stick some dynamat type stuff on it and some heat reflective stuff on top