tortron

There's a cheaper one only says dc, the others say ac/dc It also doesn't have aluminium in the description and the others do Don't get that one lol it's about 500

That can't be right because I've seen in twice

pretty good aussie mechanic channel Old mates building a v8 sigma

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/introduction/complaints

Pull them up young man

What sized chest are your pants

again, i think i can handle that

Just let him know if you are coming

Protip Ensure that your vehicle is up to wof standards before taking it in for a wof

I don't know how to tell you guys this But I don't just buy one bike

https://www.trailersauce.co.nz/trailer-plans/ground-loading-trailer/introduction/ posting here to remember pretty keen for dragging bikes home, might make it so it can store standing upright out of the way

THe internet over the last 10 years has gotten way better for finding parts, so good. was hard to even get gn250 stuff then, now i can surf the jack ma dropshipping wave and get anything

the 650s and 750s are different, from my brief sohc forum lurking 900s are clearly bent you didnt use enough red RTV also im wrong, they are available bout $30 for a china set $30 each for genuine

Straight tube on these ones, the 550s I believe have an angled one It won't be an issue

Full time apprentice tyre kicker? Lol

Actually there's some stuff you can soak them in that softens them up apparently

Probably have to part out the bike if they are, don't think they are available Maybe weld 3 dr200 engines together

Press X to doubt, I have never had exhaust paint not instantly burn off Rubbers are in great cond, it wasn't wildly more burnt than the others

Yeah I was actually thinking that being on the side stand has something to do with it as they seemed to be lowest point best, highest point worst #3 had the most paint burnt off the newly painted headers the rest were the same I might put an O2 bung in the exhaust but probably not one in each branch

yes, valve stem seals already in the post, probably werent done whenever the head was off, imagine they are plastic now., smoke was constant, starting about 20 seconds after start up and maintaining at all rpm and temperatures oil control rings felt a bit ho hum in terms of spring, but a ton of blowby probably got them sticky

those are too easy and also not real bikes

Have one, itl remove morrie hubcaps, held on by the 3 prongs

One thing I just noticed is conrods 1, 2, 3 are moving freely #4 a little less freely. For example the other 3 will flop down and rest on the case. #4 is able to stand up by itself. Can move it back and forth by hand and the engine was turning over fine with a spanner on the crank nut. Did seem to strain the battery on the starter, but I think that's due to my shit batteries as it spun fast on the jumper. Didn't make any death noises running It's been run up more than once, so I guess I will inspect the oil in the sump and the oil filter for expensive glitter

I used to start my morrie by popping the bonnet, holding the choke lever by hand, and pressing the in engine bay starter switch. So many crowds

Measured up the cylinders Not warped No scratches Nice and parallel Stock is 59.800-59.810mm service limit at 59.90mm I'm getting 59.805 ish right across the 4 at all heights so an ideal outcome. Will give them a zing with a dingle hone, new gaskets (cant get genuine which I'd prefer so same as what was in there is what I will settle for) and new standard rings, which I can get genuine. Base gasket was real brittle, and some crap was under the gasket. So I'm figuring there was a gasket job done to replace those O rings that leak oil, and it was a shit job where base gasket was left and just the top ones done, smoo up the head and away we go. Should have just done the job correctly and been riding the bike for 10 years m9