tortron

got a pic?

couldnt remember anyone else with mag shot - mikiuni possibly?

edited version of quote:

what sort of future cars do you own

i use rain-x in my helmet works ok i guess

the boot itself is made of an interesting substance each pound of which weighs 1000 pounds seriously tho - everything on it is crazy solid, each door is a 2 handed job as theres plenty of steel inside.

yet have no heater/fan just heard this idea and thought GENIUS is shall claim it as my own! because these days everyone lives in their cars while sitting in traffic to and from work various home accessories have found their way into 12v standards, i.e. plug in shavers, coffee pots and what have you. One such item is the 12V hair drier for those without the need for a hair drier, a hair drier consists of a fan and an electric element, often with settings such as - 1, 2, 3 , cold, warm, hot compare these settings to that of a modern (late 80's) demister unit and you may find ideas popping into your head. A small "travel" or "camping" hair drier is able to fit easily behind most dashes (or one on either side of the rear of a wagon. If your car is anything like mine it likely has a couple of vents that dont actually attach to anything - well here is your chance to put those vents to good use. A little ducting and some effort in mounting the unit (get fancy and pull the whole thing apart and incorperate it into the dash - or just have it hang down by your feet) and say goodbye to hanging your head out the window on those winter mornings (if you dont have existing vents you will have to get creative) This oldschool service anouncement brought to you by Tortrons dodgy old car ideas -mmmm thats good ideas

sup

should be getting better mileage now replaced a crusty o-ring on the bit that the float needle goes into seems it was overfueling when i lean the bike past a certain angle

40 years

21k per litre headwinds are a bitch

i thought this was funny currently getting 100mile to 8 litres

can probably find a brass bushing for it

as soon as i can breathe again so i can wear my mask itl get painted this week/early next week stz probably kick into the interior, boot and door jams tomorowish as i have just cleaned out my gun in preperation i figure 3 months isnt all that bad considering its been a little more than just sanding - i.e. it wouldnt have passed its next wof due to new rust still need to order various rubbers for putting it back together, tho nothing real important to its functioning just windlace for the doors, lower seals for the doors, boot seal and possibly some light backing rubbers as mine were a little crusty. Oh yea -also a bunch of bolts as i broke most in removal also - i have all of the above sorted (actually i need some u bolts)

you should be sweet on standard valve inserts anyway

slow going with this weather, not to mention having the man flu stopped raining long enough to dry out - so i rolled her outside and got to work When i first got the car, in fact one of the very first things i did, was to por-15 the interior floor (due to it being entirely surface rust. Not quite at the pitting stage, but with no covered storage and crusty window rubbers it wouldnt have lasted). That was over a year ago now and it has held up amazingly (picture constantly wet, brake fluid spills, engine oil spills, dragging parts (including an engine and box) across it) and no sign of failure. So it meets my tests . So today i cleaned and brushed out the sills and chassis rails as best i could. Then sprayed thinned por-15 using an engine cleaning gun/cavity wax gun into every nook and cranny i could find; sills, chassis rails, those bits where the rear wheel wells are, the rails in the boot, rear seat box section- you get the idea. Then gave the cavitys in the boot a good dose before moving onto the wheel wells and boot floor. Still to do is the underneath of the car (planning on re-bushing all the suspension at some point so will do it then), behind the dash (as i somehow missed this last time) and inside the doors. This is then to be topped off with a healthy dose of cavity wax, overkill? i think not! If this car needs any further rust work in the next 60 years i will be surprised - (my "new" 1960's electrolux in the foreground - im a sucker for period accessories) edit: more work

lush idea however are you sure the 2 paints wont react badly

it totally does/do it outside also you cant legally spray it in your back yard/shed

dry sump - hanging out grill for lols but wut @ ride height

this is partly true - but its more work when its fully hard just be careful not to wear through

haha - yea can do it as soon as its touch dry if you really wanted 3 days is generally the best time to cut and polish/wet sand a new paint job before it gets too hard - takes about a month for paint to be fully set

at least 3 days

looking at getting my sill covers and finishers powdercoated rather than painting also my wheels and carb manifolds. Possibly a bunch of other stuff as i go through my boxes of parts questions can lead/bog/primer be powdercoated over. I have a feeling the melting point of lead will be a problem in the oven. going prices? should i just paint?

can get proper oil sewing machine oil is too thin when warmed up i roll engine oil for max economy/it says in the book to do that