tortron

Some og members may remember the bit of trouble i had with the alloy water gallery/generator mount. Its held on with 5 bolts. I snapped off the middle one flush then snapped off an easy out in there. I used knead it to seal the cover and this worked perfect, with the proviso that i would fix it propperly at a later date. Today i drilled it out. Colbolt drill bits cut through like butter, will retap when i get a 5/16 unf tap (iv only got unc for some reason). Also cleaned up the start of the thread on the offside shock arm (must have knocked the very start of the thread with something. I had the nut off with aspirations to dismantle and rebuild, turns out you need heat anf 5+ ton of pressure to pull the arm off, so i cancled that idea) Wont be putting a heater in just yet, so i machined out the heater take off on the pump so i can fit my temp sender in there. Il probably end up just putting a cap on this and drilling out the blank on the head to fit a brass male to male fitting. Just need to borrow a drill press for a few mins to get it in square. Also pulled out the fuel tank. The hammerite i used hasnt sticked very well in places, so will repaint and refit with new screws. In summary, waiting on a bunch more bits. Short list of work to do: Lowering blocks to go in diff, driveshaft & rear suspension to go in turn torsion bars down 2 notches to match rear uprated oil in armstrong shocks refit master cylinder and run lines to front and rear union New gaskets and seals throughout engine fit lightened flywheel fit clutch and gearbox fit water pump (i have all the "conversion" parts - you have to blank off where the lower radiator hose goes to the engine, then run a new hose and metal pipe to the pump. Im only missing the metal pipe. Will kindly ask a plumber to make a copper one. Clean, paint and refit under bonnet equipment - distributor, fuel pump etc thats roughly all i need to do....

Have put on 2 coats of por15 on the underside my package from bull motif came today so i have all my new suspension rubbers, fender welt, and a few other bits. They didnt mention the gaskets wernt in stock when i ordered. But a note in the package did. Not that impressed as i probably would have ordered from esm again if i knew that. Oh well, i was making a second order soon too as i have found some bits are missing

I have an amr500 supercharger sitting on the bench

Tapped the bottom axle locating hole and loctite'ed a bolt in there. The one was open to the half shaft, this should prevent any oil loss. I think that the other 3 will be fine with the rubber grommets. Ran the other rear brake line, and also the front offside line. Stripped down the rear cylinders and master cylinder and cleaned them out. They are looking good (were resleeved in stainless and rekitted when i first got the car). Have reassembled the rear brakes, i am even using beehive springs. There is still a seemingly endless list to do

Welded up the rust in the rear today. Also ran one side of the rear brake line. Took a while, but looks good. Have held the lines down with some original and now impossible to get brass zip ties. Hopefully there are some more in my spares for the other side. Got quoted about $400 for a set of lowering blocks for this. So it looks like my money will be going to the uk yet again. Plan on por15ing the entire underside floor tomorrow. Am unsure if i then want to put on some underseal. I have always stripped it off my cars and cursed whoever put it on. But with a good base and it all being fresh i can see yye benifits in cutting down on road noise. Il think about it, as i already have a dynamat type deadening, then under carpet stuff, then carpet. So its going to be alot quieter than it was when i was driving it (only had metal floors). Plenty to do, but progress is slowly building. Wanting to sell off my other vehicles and daily this again, seems a long way off, but once my ordered parts show up i should have it on all 4 and the sump+gearbox back in within a few days

$900 and i can have a set of extraxtors delivered to my door

http://www.totalplastics.co.nz/services.aspx did you look into the plastic chroming people?

Found some more rust in the body beneath the left hand rear spring eye. 3"x1" patch and that should be the last of it. Cleaning the undersides of cars is a horrid job. Exciting news!!!! I have now removed everysingle removable part of this car

Cleaning up the underside of my minor & found a bit of rust i have previously missed. So i am wanting to borrow a mig for an hour or so. (3"x1" patch, then reattach one of my seat rails) have everything ready to go, liquid renumeration will be returned with the welder in a timely order

Synopsis of rear suspension every bush collapsed All mounting/shackle pins rusted half through Shocks are surprisingly good and even have clean oil in them Leafsprings have some use in them yet Dif has been broken and welded back together (left hand side where it connects to the diff casing. I replaced the wheel bearing here when I got the car) the weld looks rough as but its on there straight enough. The original mounting pins for that side are awol and it looks like the smallest leak was dribbling out. Have put a 5/16" blanking grommet in to keep the dribble in. Otherwise pretty good. Diff is painted & all the usefull suspension parts are prepped. Will have to wait till my parcel arrives from the UK before shes on all four again however

Spent the last 3 days under the rear end several stuck bits, soaking & a couple of hammer blows has gotten the driveshaft, diff and suspension out. Will need new front pins for the springs, rear shackle pins, new rubbers everywhere, connecting arm for the armstong shock Will take the diff to washworld tomorrow, steam blast the inch of gunk off it. Wire brush everything paint everything. Diff seals look ok, it never dripped much, cleaning may change that next steps clean up underside rear have done the rust here already, so its just paint and reassemble. My lowering blocks dont fit, they are too big for the titchy diff spring mounts, locating pins are different too and the design of the blocks doesnt permit me modifying them. Will get some made and get new u bolts. Will make new brake lines while im down there. After that, its - pull the sump and switch the flywheels replace all the seals there Remove the remains of the "fixed nuts" for the gearbox crossmember and fit standard nuts and bolts. Bung in gearbox. Clean up and reinstall all under bonnet equipment soundproof rear half of interior fit underlay and carpet retrim interior panels finish my custom instrument gauge get a new exhaust system made once im all back together and running, i will gather up all the bits required to fit the water pump. Fit tiny amp, hidden speakers and mp3 input and hopefully get some miles in

Perhaps ask a place that does the "plastic" chroming. I.e. The ones that spray goop over whatecer you want, then apply chrome. Pretty sure a place in hamilton does it

Moving before july, have a lovely sized workshop. Morrie, parts, and tools will all be coming with me (as well as truck and parts) Awes. Get it finished this year ya reckon?

Kingpins were replaced have been painting and tinkering where possible. No real issues other than not being driven enough

I have used both the clamps and self tappers both work swell and no wof issues

Amr300/500's came off little twin charged suzukis will spin either way happy enough run a lttle moreys in your fuel for lubrication if you are that way inclined, should keep the valves cool anyway. They normally have a black plastic box dealie to release pressure. Im forgetting the name, like a blowoff valve but not There is a guy in aussie pumping out problemsolver parts for them. Mainly datsun 1200 related. Pulleys and the like

i made one out of a pop rivit gun, incase you are feeling handy

would some copper brake rivets interest you?

Air cooled engines run hot. So pretty quickly at idle. I would expect to see life after 15 min slow running

blue car/roof and a red swage line

ensure tappet clearances are set correctly live with it

that stuff will dissolve all the gunk thats stopping your engine from leaking

Wof today Left and right KingPins worn (these must have bugger all miles on them as the previous owner replaced them). Front right tie rod worn Steering this thing is fairly vauge, so il accept that is probably looking for an overhaul already sourced the required parts - $120 a side plus $40 for the tie rod Will go ahead and order them, its cheap enough and chances are it was flogged out on the farm before i got it

woman at work + her partner were in the Trabant club and had restored a few (Hungary i Believe) surely you would be poking your finger through the panels from new?

The metal part is hollow, and will be cross drilled about half an inch up the stem (you will probably be able to see a small circle thats a slightly different colour) apply heat to all of that,and give the cable a pull, doesnt take too much to melt the solder. keep it hot and insert your new bicyle cable, the old solder will probably lock this in place well enough