tortron

Finished modifications to the manifold. Made up the throttle and choke linkages, just happened to have some scrap rod of the correct diameter. Needed to be about an inch wider than that of a mini. Have also put on some heatshields that came with the carbs. I can use the fuel line that came with the carbs. Choke cable slots right into place and the throttle cable bracket can be used if shortened. Too easy. Will block off the vacuum take off and make up a bracket for the return springs

I have the flanges made already. Has 4 exhaust ports. Major gains by replacing the log type original exhaust as there are two 90degree bends before tye downpipe. Tyere was a great write up on tye hamb about doing such mods to the 100e enginge that i took a few ideas away from. Have a copper head gasket so can open it up pretty kuch anytime and smooth the step out a bit

. First is a standard 100e. 2nd is fitted with twin carbs and four branch exhaust. Coupled with my port matching and clean up i think im going to be over the 20% increase in power. Haha

turns out that a ford 100e and a sidevalve morris minor have identical port spacings (and a few other things im betting. Want to compare head gaskets at some stage) . So i got a brand spankers new 100e aquaplane twin carb manifold, and a set of 1 1/4 inch SU's from a 948 mini several modifications are required to make the manifold fit. First off the ford has 1" round ports and the minor has 1" square ports - there is enough meat in the flange side to square it out. Second, the fins foul on the thermostat bulge on the head (not an issue if you have an early nothermostat head, or have an alloy head) So these need to be removed quite aggressively to fit. A couple of inches long and down to the body on the first and second fin, then a small amount on the 3rd

How she sits today everything but the intake and exhaust is back on the engine have bodged together a radiator hose. An original would have been brass, im going to change this one for a cut up a series lower hose and a copper right angle bend as this is what others are using. have rebuilt the distributor. Can only get new top entry caps so am keeping the old one. Have replaced a few internal screws with "correct" ones because i dont like the old ones not matching. All bushes were in good order. Removed the old leads and installed new cloth covered copper multistrand ones. I fired up the gas torch and soldered everything together Added a few details. Soldered brass lugs, number punched to the corresponding plug brass cooling fins - because they are neat and wingnuts to hold it together. Cheers and apoligies for phone pictures

In direct violation of this websites rules - i have fitted bump stops to the front (never had any, the rubbers had fallen iff the plates. Wof man never noticed i guess) have drilled and tapped the blank on the timing cover. Moving the generator adjustment further out to clear the new rad to pump hose. Rebuilt generator and reamed out the mounting bracket to take a length of 10mm threaded rod. This should stop the generator falling off. Need to go sort out some bends for the extractors tomorrow. Will also rebuild the distributor and run new leads these days off

Run the radiator in the boot with some speed holes and fans

Engine is back togeter sump fitted lightened flywheel installed new (the best of my spares) clutch and pressure plates fitted Busted springs in gearbox replaced gearbox fitted to engine crossmember in place but yet to be bolted to the car And waterpump and refurbed starter installed. Also made up a heater bypass hose which looks pretty good First time i have done a clutch (in a car at least) so ever the pesimist i expect the car to shake itself to bits. In anycase this car hasnt had a functional starter motor or clutch that works properly since i have owned it

There was a good write up on the hamb - homebrew 4 banger - or similar. Has lost its images now but had heaps of tips on porting and head mods to improve performance (fit a 900 head to the 1100 for more compression etc.) You have already done the best performance mod - seperate the intake and exhaust and fit extractors (fab me some up too please. The side valve morris minor engine is a near exact copy) heaps of performance equiptment still available ex-uk. Aquaplane intakes and heads and the sort. An intake over exhaust head conversion would be neat

Have been making steady progress rear suspension and diff is back in, with a small amount of lowering. Put in sound deadening over the rear half of the floor, and cut underfelt to suit Rebuilt starter motor Painted up the water pump made up a 1 1/2 stainless exhaust system - just tacked till i get someone to finish it pulled the sump and timing chain cover (there is now nothing holding my engine in as it kounts via the gearbox and timing cover) Have fitted a new cork seal to the rear bearing cap, sump gaskets, and new rope oil seal to the sump and timing cover. If this doesnt keep the oil in it looks easy enough to machine the front lips off and fit a modern one piece, and i even have a seal perfect for the rear cap in my seals bin. Pluses- this engine is incredibly clean inside, the bearings are all in excellent condition and dont appear to be over sized. Iv been slack and havnt got any flywheel bolts yet so cant put it all back together yet. My shelf of parts is looking empty, and the only bits left to buy are the odd nut, bolt and washer

it soaks into the engine components after 60 years i would say theb&s oil is fine, perhaps more expensive than an oil brand brand... Also there is no real reason you cant run a modern oil, technology has come a long way since the 40s

Will that alloy sheet fit in from the bottom, probably not i guess

Edit. Supercheap sells penrite in 1 & 2.5l or go to repco, if they look at you funny ask for running in oil. They carry a different brand in 4l jugs

Supercheap sell monograde its often on special as well i use 30sae in the truck make sure to drop the sump and clean it out twice as often as you would change the filter

Got it sorted, thanks for the offer

yup. Not sure if the brass plug in the back of the head will come out. 60 years and id say its become one. I see you can get 12v solinoid valves, pretty neat

I used some on the trim of my rear seats (chaning piping colour to match the fronts) used vht pain i think went on well and stuck/bonded. Havnt used it on a large area tho. Id say it will be fine for a few years but will eventually wear through

They are called acorn nuts apparently - incase anyone searches in the future

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/electrics/auction-616972545.htm late, but these are them

Flushed out the rear armstrong shocks. Turns out they are rebuilt units - can see the replacement plug on the rear side. This explains the good condition and being the only part of the car not leaking. Another giveaway is the gasket under the filler cap. They didnt punch any holes in it, makes topping up a bit hard. Haha topped up with fresh sae.30 & painted

Yea, im excited to see it through. The hope is to get morrie boffins taking a second look and the average joe assuming its standard

It stops my papers from blowing around will find its way onto this. Will set up the car like the original sharock supercharge kit (to keep up with those new peppy a series) Have most of the bits sorted, pulleys, flanges etc. The build of the car has changed since i first got it. Its now my interpretation of a coachbuilt (ala radford or whoever was making the black supercharged minis) or factory special edition. Going for period correct performance and comfort where ever possible. Things like Water pump cooled engine Engine porting light weight flywheel tidied wires high spec interior trim and sound deadening extra factory gauges wide wheels uprated suspension A tasteful touch of polished brass and alloy trying to avoid (or hide completely) any modern luxury. keep in mind only high end cars in the 50s had even a heater. So in post war england i have a super car

Did some further work today tapped the generator water gallery mount, then painted the fuel tank again, re fitted it with new stainless screws, then used new hardware to mount the boot trays. Little coach bolts. Looks good, but i dont recomend changing the rear ones from screws, they are exactly 1/2" too far away for my arm to reach

Phone pictures, have more indepth ones on my camera. Will dump more at some point. finished diff, hasnt leaked anymore so i must have sorted it. New brake lines and rebuilt brakes drilled the water gallery blank in the head. 1/2" all the way through for the probe, then 19/32" halfway to tap to a 3/8bsp fitting. Brass 3/8 male-male fitting has 1/2" machined out of the first 1/4" to match the step on the probe bulb. Fits wonderfully, hopefully the capillary hasnt been damaged in the last 4 years!

No pics as i cbf uploading from my tablet