Nominal

Split pin in bellhousing is just a jiggle pin to keep the hole clear for oil leaking out.

For the inspection? That seems a lot.

Don't bin cat, it's worth money for scrap.

E's in the UK so probably common? Are you just trying to re-attached the exhaust? Maybe get a short piece of flexi exhaust (or another ball joint) off something else and weld it to the cat then shorten the exhaust pipe a bit. Then you wouldn't have to deal with the rusted shit.

I think your problem is that you can't spell Lucas.

I'm rural, was just some 25mm aluminium square bar. There were some ss nuts and bolts and things too.

No, but have seen the ads. Last time I mail ordered metal from the www.themetalcompany.co.nz, shipping was $70. It was 1m long though.

I dunno if you can do that legally / cert wise.

This is the one you should be watching!

It might have been damaged too, does it have the 15A fuse they mention?

What is the regulator exactly, got a link to the manufacturer site?

This is all connected to a 12V battery, right? I don't understand why there is only 9V on the field coil, why isn't it closer to the battery voltage?

Got it back today, they didn't take it apart but used an inspection camera to locate the reaction disc and winkle it back into place. Pushrod now taped in so won't fall out easily. I probably won't get to installing it until after the weekend. Have to set up the clearance correctly too. It was my parents car, bought new in 1971, so I've been riding/driving it for ever.

The shop told me they had an old fart come in to consult on it and he said they were a pain. I want to keep the car original if at all possible, a new system would require a cert too. Will ping you if I need advice.

It's a journey. I blew a rear slave cylinder out back in late Feb, and since I was having to work on the rear brakes I thought it was time to get the booster/MC rebuilt, it's just over 50 years old and never been off the car (I'm pretty sure). The front calipers were rebuilt last year. I took the lot into the brake shop (ABC). They supplied new rear shoes and the slave cylinders easily enough but then took ages to get the booster done. They told me that the were having trouble getting the booster to hold vacuum when reassembled. Eventually they got it to work after replacing (one, both?) diaphragm. (I dunno I thought I was paying them to do that anyway). Instead of rebuilding the original big nut M/C they supplied a new pattern part with an alloy body. They also stripped down the brake warning switch/slider part and put new seals in it. When I put it all back together initially I couldn't get the warning switch slider to reset properly. Later on I've worked out that the pin on the end of the switch is too short so the warning light never actually goes out no matter where the piston is. I took it for a drive up the road but the brakes weren't right, quite grabby at the front (discs) and still felt like the rears weren't working (too much pedal travel). I wasn't even sure that the replaced M/C had the same pipe arrangement, in the stock setup the rear part of the M/C goes to the rear brakes. So I sent the original M/C down to the place in Christchurch who rebuilt it. Thought I'd be sweet, but no. I couldn't get the rear brakes to bleed properly. Eventually I disconnected everything from the rear and just put a return pipe from the rear port back into the M/C, when pushing the brake pedal almost no fluid was coming out the rear port. So I sent the M/C back to Chch to be checked. They sent it back with no notes so I don't know if there was an issue or not. I've made a rig to bench test the M/C and it seemed to be working OK, but when I put it back on the booster the pedal travel was massive so pulled it off again. So after that I had a measure up and worked out that there is about a 15mm gap between the end of the pushrod out of the booster and the push point inside the M/C. Looking into the booster I couldn't really see if the reaction disc was in there (I've done a bit more googling of how boosters work) There didn't seem to be anything loose inside the booster. So, I took the booster and the M/C back to ABC on Monday for them to have a look. I showed them the issue but I haven't heard anything from them. There must be something wrong inside the booster but I don't know what. I did have a go at splitting it, but gave up as the force I was applying seemed excessive.

HG Holden, dual diaphragm I think. It's still at ABC, will check with them on Monday.

Well, I hope not!

Booster and MC are back at ABC in Wellington, no news so far.

Old answer Redrilling of Hubs or rotors - Nissan Cefiro | LVVTA Forum (proboards.com)

Oh yeah, thanks.

Made me think of Howard Hughes for some reason.

Is there anyone coming from further North that would take a engine that way for @gibbon? It's wrapped and strapped to a small pallet.

I'll be there, hopefully the weather drama will settle down a bit by then.

Swedish variety?

It's only 11 weeks since it came back on a truck, no need to rush these things.