crazy_rich

vh40's and vh44's came out in the likes of minis and hillman hunters, they are single circuit. so if you want to boost both front and rear brakes you'll need 2 of them. I've heard you can get away with running just one to boost the front if you fit larger slave cylinders into the drums at the back, though i havent done it, it'd be a good point to start researching to confirm. safe r brakes in chch sell vh44's for $500 each brand spankers. I'm having similar problems with my car, still havent sorted out what to do as my engine takes up the space where the brake booster once was, i reckon a booster is needed on a road car, especially if your running big calipers otherwise the brakes wouldnt modulate very well. hope that helps/ raises more discussion

hey ya'll as im on holiday at the moment and have fuck all to do i thought id get this thing up and reliable again. Considering it doesnt start anymore, has no brakes, and a perforated radiator ive got a bit of work to do. so i chucked the steels back on it, hotwires stuck out side the guards too much and i couldnt be fucked lipping them. trend?... what trend...? might whitewall them/ cant be fucked. opened the boot up to look for rust, looks fairly clean eh? then i took the radiator out. check out the state of the coolant.... headgasket i reckon. im remembering just how gutless this thing is, so id say the engine could do with a freshen up, though i really cant be bothered pulling it out, so i'll just work on the capri instead. bullshit update: yes, thanks for your time.

I painted my old 323 with that export crap, wouldn't reccomend it, left a big black mark on my driveway whenever it rained, then once came summer it started crumbling off when you rubbed it, then to make matters worse its so soft it clogged up my sanding disks literally straight away when i decided to sand it off to give it a "proper" paint job, took bloody ages cos i had to get it all off if i wanted any chance of the dulon sticking to it. the ppg dulon worked out quite well, used a mitre 10 compressor, and just sprayed till i ran outta paint. got 4l satin black and 4l thinners thru a mate for $100. Im sure someone on here could hook you up?

brake master cylinders need to be dual circut.

I work at angineering shop that modifies and balances d/shafts, you'd be surprised at the ltsa regulations we have to follow to be able to legally do them. Theres obviously a reason for this so don't do it yourself. driveshaft loops need to be at least a 50x5 steel loop 360 deg around the driveshaft within 150mm behind the front UJ, or so Wayne Martin the local cert dude has requested of me. He also requests a certificate from an approved engineering company to ensure that your driveshaft has been balanced.

shit, if its a long way id better pack some coils. hopefully Johns got the ceddy back in time, be badass etc.

where abouts are ya? if you're down south im sure clutch systems down hazeldean road in chch can sort you right, if they cant find you one they'll just recon your old one. bloody cheap too.

haha can i bring my 89 bluebird along? / nah.

didnt happen to get any spare headlights with it by any chance did he? haha. Have you got those mirrors at your place yet? might cruise out on the weekend.

I bolted a hiace van master cylinder under the dash in my capri, just had to weld a clevis to the top of the clutch pedal, and im yet to remote mount a reservoir in the engine bay. alternately you could maybe mount a standard rx master cylinder on your firewall, just copying the rx setup. because id say you'll have more spare room in the bay than i do.

driveshafts need a certificate from the place it was balanced at to say its been balanced. welding of engine mounts etc can be done by a ticketed welder, but it does say that anyone deemed competent enough at welding by your particular certifier can do it as well. youd be best to talk to your local cert guy.

haha by the looks of those cars you'd all laugh at the sight of a standy mk 3 cortina rolling up. looks like a cool evening though.

I was hoping to have the capri ready for this year, was the overall goal etc. turns out im useless, so maybe next year? haha i'll definitely bowl down for a look this year though.

lowering the steering tie rod ends on the strut does the same job as raising the actual steering rack to combat bump steer, and is alot easier, especially if clearance to the sump is an issue, and since capri's racks are bolted on at an angle, raising it would also move it forward. http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13 fuck i love hijacking threads.

had a talk to E Parrott and son today, reckoned itd take half an hour to change your counter, $25 odd bucks +gst i presume 3669554 360 st asaph st if thats of any use to you.

parrots instruments on st asaph street can probably help you out. cant remember their number off hand, but I work at 344 and they are 2 or 3 buildings closer to fitzy ave than us. fuckit, ill take mine in tomorrow on my lunch break cos im betting mine needs done too, see if they can do it.

its a pity old fords have the steering arm and the lower control arm attaching in different places on the strut, means we have to fuck with them separately, the lower ball joint doesn't just bolt on either, we'd probably have to machine up a sleeve internally tapered on one end, externally on the other, but then the thread on the taper on the control arm wouldn't be long enough. for the steering we'd need adjustable rose joints on the end of the steering rack. does anyone know of any common remedy for the old skool fords? I've always been told not to go too low, or too firm in the rear if i want my capri to handle properly. meh, low is sic.

I had a chat to my cert dude about making hubs, steering arms etc and he just said not without design cert. a mate of mine is designing a complete front crossmember and suspension from scratch for his 260c, all of which has to go through design cert, he's not too worried, loving it etc. talented guy though. Ive run into heaps of problems after this thread/ doing some proper research, ill definately be picking some brains about it over the next few days.

haha saw ya rolling down some road in papanui today, stalker styles, paint looked good, way better than my effort at painting my old bugeye anyway, good shit.

yeh thats a good idea, could also just parallell bore it at use an aftermarket rose joint, could shim it up for adjustment that way. capri's good in the way that the rack sits level with the inner ball joints. should all be quite level. hell it can all be made adjustable anyway. seriously cant be fucked making a new one, gonna quit my job anyway, wont have access to a machine shop anymore = gay.

yo dude, cheers for putting me right there, would have understeered straight into a powerpole otherwise, I'm going to try use the standard steering arms turned around the other way for a start, since im going low there could be enough movement in the ball joints to allow for the angle in it, otherwise ill make up some new billet ones with an adjustable height rosejoint from 4340 or similar. just another bump in the road, car building is interesting like that eh..

woofkin hoo look at this http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/ ... kerman.asp http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.com/ ... /index.asp http://www.bakerprecision.com/longacr17a.htm http://www.rqriley.com/suspensn.htm fully gonna tech this thread out now.

you mean these suckers? The way i figured, since they're both the same angle it shouldnt matter with them being on opposite sides, mustnt have done enough research, but i cant see how it'd be a problem, how would i have to make them differently if i was to make new ones? I'm not swapping the TCA's, just the struts. TCA's seem to dictate all the camber/ castor/toe etc, I've just googled to try to find some diagrams, do you know of any good reference sites? is it this angle thats going to cause problems? I drew a rough diagram on autocad last night, figured if i took the measurement from the centreline of the lower bush to the outer rose joint on the rack then the measurement from the xmember to the inner ball joint, and added the difference to the first measurement, it'd give me back the 2odd degrees difference in the 2 wheels, where as the way i had it before would have effectively made the outer wheel cut a tighter circle. haha i bet you'll have to read that twice for it to make any sense, I'm better with pictures. thanks for your help dude.

theres no way you could ram a drill down the old strut tops is there?

I'm now 90% certain that what im doing will screw up the Ackerman angle. shit. sorry for hijacking your thread Gaz