crazy_rich

yeah early v6 capri stub axles are a larger diameter, I have no experience with them but have heard they are a pain to get bearings for. They're identifiable by having the disks bolt through the face of the hub instead of behind like a normal escort/ cortina etc.

I got some mk2 zephyr hubs on a capri stub using the capri inner race in the zephyr outer race. Timken bearings are mix and match, I don't know part numbers for a set that would work out of the box.

oh yup, gotcha now, that would be the ticket

For use on the road I'd imagine this would need design/material cert, It would need to be case hardened to extend the life of the ball too. Using rose joints to lower the steering rack tie rod end is relatively easy, but most the time it gets a bit dodgy modifying cast or forged control arms to accept one, hence why those adjustable camber control arms are very hard if not impossible to certify for road use. Still very interested. For a race car this could be a very useful trick.

yo, cant help but I'm keen to hear how this works out for you, could be a good way to correct roll centre in lowered old fords.

dont piss around mate, if its not already been done, replace everything, waterpump, cambelt, tensioner, idlers, its not as expensive as you might think, and much easier to do now, especially if your planning on revving the bajesus out of the poor thing, last thing you'll want is to be relying on a cambelt/idlers of unknown condition, though if its new, ignore me. shot.

How long has the engine been sitting idle for? my bet is your injectors have seized up. Are your plugs wet? Had similar symptoms with an fj20 510 and a 4age kp60, it was the injectors both times. I got mine flowed and checked last week to eliminate the problem and was told they were all completely blocked, most likely due to being left dry for so long. If the o-rings around the top were rooted, chances are the injectors aren't in much better shape. Looking good though, and oh so close!!! (jealous man typing)

oh really? must have been a common fault, I found that if the tripmeter was reset it'd start counting again until a certain point, usually around 160km, then it would jam again. I can remember back in the late 90's the peugeot dealer in town got done for fitting tripmeter jamming devices to new cars they sold to skimp on servicing. Christ knows how they thought they would get away with it, maybe holden dabbled in a similar scheme? still cracks me up that that heap made it into some dudes car collection... i mean wtf... seriously.... vk's freakin rule. is yours injected? that thing did some sweet top gear one wheel burnouts.

hahaha oh man, that dudes selling my old commodore, fuck thats funny lot 19. bet its still got 170thousand odd clicks on it, speedo was jammed. paid $200 for it and raped the bajeesus out of it back in the day. seriously surprised its still around. kinda want it back.

Started on the rear end over the weekend, I set the diff up to get an idea of how much room I had up there, decided to reset the springs 2" for a start, so they're away getting done this week. Then managed to remove the rear shock turrets without too much butcherage. Hopefully next weekend I can look into welding the new ones in. Spent tonight messing around fixing a fuckup involving placement of my o2 sensors. Pity I dont have much room under there for the exhaust. Also dummied up a brake on my diff to figure out what rotors I need to run with the mounts a mate threw my way. Turns out the early 90's maxima rear brakes share the same dimensions as the p10 but with an extra hole, should do the trick. I have a feeling the P10 handbrake cable is going to be just too much long enough to be a cunt, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it. So yeah, hopefully I'll have some leafs back soon and I'll put the rear end together, I've started making a jig to hold the diff straight while I weld it up, should be interesting to see how that goes. I'll keep ya'll posted.

yeah, i guess that'd explain it, rather cheap way of fixing the problem thats for sure. got any advice on 4 linking Dan? been doing a bit of research today, my main concerns are -having enough room for the top arms as I want to retain a useable rear seat -being able to use urethane rod ends yet still having adjustable length arms as I do not want it to be excessively noisy, and you know what nz roads are like. -being able to engineer a turret of sufficient strength to support the forces of the spring without a roll cage. - would using the front leaf mounts in the body to mount the lower arms work?, I also have upper mounts where the swaybar/anti tramp rods did mount, though I think that would make the top arms too short. I'm not really open to the idea of a triangulated 4-link / satchel design as I'm going to run a panhard rod anyway, and dont like their binding tendencies. running adjustable height coilovers in the rear is an obvious choice, but due to the front tyre being so close to my strut, and my unwillingless to want to ruin the look of the car with flares, I dont think i'll get them in the front easily, which makes putting them in the back seem rather ridiculous. just throwing a few ideas around at the moment, thinking along the lines that if I have to put some new turrets in they may as well be strong enough to support coilovers if I decided to use them at a later date. at the end of the day it is just a street car, but installing a more predictable rear end cant be a bad thing. its just a case of how far do I go?

woah been a while! anyway, I've finished the sump complete with haggard looking pickup, fortunately I didnt get a piccy before it all got bolted up, ended out welding another section into the sump to add a bit more volume, or at least to keep the oil level down lower away from the crank. Lets hope it turns out ok eh, dont want any of that oil surge crap. might see something in this pic, even painted it. some of you may have noticed my penchant for re-engineering my engine mounts every few weeks. no excuses. good spotting. I've also made a start on the much feared and put-off headers I've inevitably had to make. I wont lie. It was a cunt of a job, and they are nowhere near being any kind of equal length mega power fostering design, but I had fuck all room, and as long as the hot stuff eventually makes its way out a hole under my rear bumper I dont really give a shit what they look like. I've also put fresh waterpump, cambelt, plugs, rotors etc on the engine, and bought an a1 turbos bellhousing, as my rangi 'made by a 2nd year apprentice' adaptor plate was sitting the gearbox on the piss. Either way, whatever fucked me up had the same effect on A1 because their bellhousing is just as bad. which means it was a complete waste of money. Yay. next step will be the rear end. unfortunately I've discovered the P10 brakes are going to foul on my rear shocks due to me narrowing the diff too much and fords retarted idea of mounting one shock on the front of the diff and one on the rear. Due to this, I have to move a shock tower. this concerns me most due to the fellows who have said things like "If you move one tower, you may as well turret it,.... and if your adding tramp bars you may as well 4 link it, and all that shit. fuck peer pressure. you know what I mean. see how we go eh?

Hell yeah. thats some impressive stuff, very clever.

Yo, I had the same problem with my capri, due to the v8 being far to wide to fit a brake booster. Making a racing pedalbox with aftermarket wilwood or similar master cylinders is probably the easiest and most commonly taken route. However, I didnt want to have such hugely different feeling pedals between the daily and the capri, so I dicked around for a while and put a liteace van pedalbox in. info here http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=9542 another possible solution is what we did on my mates 4age starlet and welded a box into the firewall to effectively recess where the clutch slave mounts by about 2 inches enabling the plenum to fit.

hey, I managed to find a 3.58:1 out of a 2007 hilux sr5 for my capri, might pay to ring around a few later model wreckers, got mine through trademe. wasnt cheap. I've also heard that the higher ratio 3.7's etc are considerably weaker than the lower 4.3's etc due to the core thickness of the individual teeth being reduced. she'll be right eh?

sounds good bro, i like this idea, be good to see a bit different scenery and definetly keen for some red meat....hmmmmmm steak might be fucked tho cos i dont got a towbar on the pontiac. my 'tina's got one.

yeh I'll be keen to finally come along to a meet, I'll drag the cortina out of the shed and get one of the boys to drive it for me. It'll be farkin rad.

yo, I dont have any experience with the standard ecu's on these engines, but have a squizz at www.lextreme.com if you havent already, theres alot of info to help with what you've just done there.

Evening fellas, thought I'd share my Rover with ya all. Now although they started making these bad boys well into oldschool age territory, I feel mine has far too much plastic on it to be classified as such. Its an '87 range rover vogue 3.5 auto, its got about 360000km (translated) on the clock, so I figure everything that will pack up would have done so by now. My plans are a 3" spring lift with longer shocks to keep the artic, it'll be getting the boring old whitespokes + 33" mudtyre combo and some sweet bullbars, then I'll use it for a river hack and back country exploration. Cant wait. gonna tint the windows too, reckon it'll look badass. Currently however, I'm half way through a lift... literally, the back end is sitting 3" higher than the front while I wait for some new shockers and the fan decided it'd had enough last weekend as well, luckily only while moving it in the driveway. made one hoorah of a fucken bang, was mint. reckon the engines about fagged anyway, its got some mean sticky lifters and smokes like grandad, surprisingly still has some power however, so we'll leave it for now. beautiful truck to drive though, makes you feel like tuning into the classical station and lighting up a mean cigar off road, rather than holding on for dear life, gotta love it. I'll keep u posted.

yo, cars looking wicked dude, lovin the hideaway behind your heater bubble, pure class. Hey where abouts did you get your brake/clutch fluid reservoirs from? and what size diameter outlet are they? I've about decided that willwood ones will be almost slightly too cuntish to use. lovin the bubbles, fuck it must be so sweet to be able to run such fat arse rubber.

looking good dude, I like what you've done with ya sump, following the whole keep it simple stupid philosophy, what sorta volume have you gone for? are you solid mounting your engine? mines kinda ground to a halt again, I've discovered the freedom of 4x4's and gone and bought a range rover

hey mate, check the tire pressures are even in the back wheels before you go pulling it apart, fixed the same problem with my bluebird, hadnt been used much in the months leading up to the wof either.

shes still not a runner, finally got the auto back after a month rather that the week they'd initially stated, though to be fair they had good reasons behind that, even so I still wouldnt recommend automan automatics due to workmanship. They'd used a cork sump gasket preventing the lower bellhousing bolts from lining up as the cork was about 2mm thicker than the paper it should have had. Upon removing the pan to fix this slight fuckup I noticed a problem with a split pin guess they wanted it to stay in long enough to make them look innocent when i came back in a few months time, or it could have been accidental? makes me wonder what else hasnt quite been put back together properly. ended out slotting the lower bellhousing boltholes as I couldnt be bothered dealing with the type of auto parts stores that are open on a sunday, if you know what I mean. Got my brake master resleeved though, Canterbury brake and clutch did an awesome job, overnight service, reasonably priced, couldnt be happier. so now im ready to put the box back in, get some other bits and pieces, then ill be alot closer.

looks like i was right in it not being a perfect world, I got the recond engine back, chucked it in, got the recond carb back (was over fuelling apparently) slapped that on, she started first pop, sweet. till the trans dumped all its fluid out the rear seal. Ended out Pulling the box as it looked to be leaking from every possible orifice, so its in getting rebuilt as we (I) speak, the brake master is getting the treatment too as i'm betting it'll be next to go, and it looks rather poked. fingers crossed for a successful weekend eh? engine going in. must have been leaking for a while as the trans fluid has managed to get flung all under the car by the driveshaft turning the underseal to mush, so i scraped it off and sprayed some new shit on, what a fucking fantastic job that was. heres hoping it'll be a driver next week. thanks for you time.

Hey, got the impression its a borg warner according to my haynes manual, it reckons 73/74 is the crossover model between the 2, and mine doesnt have a trans cooler, The manual reckons the defining difference between the 2 box's is by the look of the dipstick, mine looks like the grainy pic of the BW35, still i must stress, auto noob here. really do want to leave the car original though, as it hasnt been molested at all in the last 35 odd years, and im not after a race car. Still very keen on a seat, doesnt have to be mint, even if its intact enough to put a sheepskin or a sweet beaded cover over without having the frame rip it to pieces.