eke_zetec_RWD

Fair enough! You should bring it to manfeild before you sell it. Most of the seven owners drive like pussys because they don't want to damage it. Come down and push the limits!

Just a bit of advice, not sure if this applies so much to a kent, go for a twin plate and light steel flywheel. I found with my seven with the zetec in it when down changing under brakes its very easy to compression lock the wheels if not rev matched properly. This was with a lightened factory flywheel. I now use a very light steel one with tilton twin plate and it's much much better

Should I just make a 3rd manifold? Mk3 is always the best! Just look at cortinas

Ummmm what?

I always drill a small hole in the bottom of tube to let oil leak out

This man speaks the truth

At cruise just go as lean as you can before it stops

Yip, you could smash a layer of fibre glass in the middle to make it cheaper, basically no strength loss. So carbon then glass then carbon

I think carbon is quite brittle. And Kevlar isn't. So it's like the best of both worlds. Must be better for guards-stone impacts. Plus it looks dope.

I used a valve from a 1990s 320 BMW, it's 2 wire and just has like 16mm Hose in and out. Works a treat.

Iv ordered 10m of the carbon Kevlar cloth. Will be making bonnet and mud guards for lotus from it. Was about half the Nz price. Looks good in the photos!

My escort is one piece, 3" tube. And it's been sweet as. Tested to 8000rpm.

Nah no room to mount that to side of bell housing, gearbox Is a super tight fit.

Cancel that, wilwood make one. I'm sure last time I googled it no one made them, but that was a few years ago. Iv just melted the like 10th clutch cable on escort so prob should upgrade

Any one ever found a pull type clutch slave cylinder? Eg to replace a cable clutch? Or do you think there's a market for it?

Checked for loose head bolts??? Ohh too soon?

Have you recalibrated it?

It won't bind AT ALL if all 4 arms are same length and parallel to each other. BUT other than that it will. In saying that if like said above you can move it easily then roll it. If you want to check how bad it is pull one bolt out and watch its hole alinement while you move the diff up and down. ( springs removed )

Ohh harsh! Just curious to know if the compression tester you used was home made also? Or have you checked it on a known good engine?

Leak down test results yet?

But yes do a leak down before you strip it

You have done the valve clearences I take it? Also is your gauge know as accurate?

If it's on tdc and the valves are closed on number 1 then it's at the top of the compression stroke. This means the rotor in the dizzy will be pointing at the number one ignition lead. But honestly we need some better pics to confirm you have it right. If you have no clue then stop playing with it because if you fuck this up there is a chance you can bend some valves and mark Pistons.

I mean a photo of the rockers on the front cylinder when it's on tdc. Not the pulley. A nice clear photo. You will need to remove the rocker cover.

Sounds like it's gone very wrong. Should have way more than 30 on a new motor. Chuck up a pic of the cam when you have it on Tdc number 1 cylinder