Chrome_GT

Blown Head Gasket. The blow back is the ignition from the adjacent cylinder when the gasket is blown between the chambers. Have you checked compression yet? I had this on my capri once and it took far to long for me to diagnose - felt like a knob once i'd realised. I went down the same path as you've been lead on, ignition timings etc

I know this is a couple years old. But for completeness sake i had the exact same symptoms in my alternator. I found that one of the rectifiers diodes had lost it's solder joint and was shorting out against an adjacent plate. Hopefully someone will come across this in two more years time and it'll save them buying a whole new alternator

Why?

It's the number 13 thing on your diagram too. If i unsolder 2 wires and undo one nut it looks like the whole diode pack (13) comes off. Should be pretty easy. Might have a crack in the weekend once i've bought a soldering iron.

Have sussed out through a capri forum that it is a diode. They referred to the plate assy as a diode pack. My plan is to unsolder the diode pack and rip one out of one of my spare alternators to solder back in (or just use one of the spare alternators if they charge ok, I think i destroyed my last ones windings). This alternator is about 5 years old.

Backround - My ignition light was lit when key in off position, but lamp died when key was turned on. 74 2000cc capri Basically there was a short. I noticed there was a shorting sound coming from the alternator when i had the plug in the back. Underneath the end cap there are 3 plates, with connector stalks running through from each plate to a winged connection apparently fixed to the top outermost plate. But one of those connectors had come loose so the 3rd plate was shorting to the second. It looks fixable!!! I can bend the connector back into place. And with superglue i can hold it in place. Otherwise it'll likely shake loose and short out again. On those connectors there is a black cylindar. I'm worried that even if I do the above fix the connection under the black cylinder may not be too flash. It is impossible to get a soldering iron underneath. What is the cylinder? Can i simply fit a jump wire between the outermost plate and the innermost? Therefore making the same connection as otherwise achieved by the stalks or does the cylinder actually do something , resistor, capacitor etc? Help much appreciated.

http://www9.qha.com/uk/technical/qhcatalogues.htm If you are looking for parts for your classic you'll find this very useful. I've used the catalogs quite a bit. Great when selling parts as you'll easily find other vehicles which use the same bits (use ctrl F)

yeah .dxf are the most widely used for 2D cuts. Make sure your .dxf is output at 1:1 scale and there is a sample dimension so they can check before cutting. Otherwise you could end up with a very big bill.

As someone said - make sure you are running the correct coil. I was running a non ballast coil in the capri, even though i have a ballast resistor. Didn't notice for a while until i started having trouble starting the car when cold. Also chewed through points more than usual if i remember right. So check that out.

I'm pretty sure Repco did a kit for fitting windscreen washers to a car. Came with everything needed (pipes, switches, wire, small bottle etc). Motogard brand. Most people bought them to use as diesel squirters for the rear wheels. Being a MK2 you might not actually need them but my guess is that if the switch is still there then they have to work. So maybe you can remove the switch. Do look into it further though.

When this happened when i first got the capri the garage ended up fitting a custom made 1pce driveshaft (was two piece originally) Was about $200 10 years ago, maybe more now. circle track engineering

As above anyway - pretty sure cortinas, escorts, capris have the same speedo cable style so you should be able to hold of one of them easily. Usually it is the inner cable which gets damaged so someone here might have a spare outer sheath which will have the clip ??

Cheers for the link. I'm already onto those guys, have been put onto one of their members by the club secretary, just getting answer phones so far but will keep trying. Still interested in any others you guys know of. Have got one car lined up as a backup plan. Has the old style looks but is a 1957 Citroen. Went to the Twin Rivers car display a acouple weekends ago too. Nothing quite right but i suggest all oldschoolers get there in march 2011. A great range of cars on display - not necessarily showroom condition, which is even better.

Hi, Does anyone have any contact details for the owners of cars as described and who do weddings? I'm after at least one car 1920s - early 30's vintage, 4 door large rear seat area white, cream, silver, black, dark navy, dark purple or combo of Hills capable to pick up my soon to be Mrs from cashmere way. Something like this but with rear doors. [/img]

Hey, My Capri used to snap cables. Finally noticed after a couple times that there was a crack under the firewall tube you mentioned. This meant that the tube sat at an unusual angle (pointed downwards due to the crack). Got the tube realligned and welded and no problems since. Oh by the way for other Capri owners, the 2000cc Capri clutch cable is a nighmare to buy new, but if you buy the QCC1010 mk4 cortina cable and shorten the inner by about 45 mm it'll fit up nicely. Has the same ends on it. Had myne shortened by Safe R Brakes and costs $10 or so

Try 98 or 96 before doing anything. I find my Capri runs like shit with 91 Octane but problems all go away with high octane. My Thoughts Try Higher octane - if this works stick with it or adjust timing to suit lower octane. Running too lean also causes run on doesn't it as a lean burn is hotter. Retarded timing gives run on as late combustion is more likely to heat up the carbon deposits on or near your exhaust valve. Don't mess with the mixture until you've done timing as it is unlikely your mixture is suddenly incorrect.

Over run is caused by hot stuff in the combustion chamber such as hot valves or hot carbon deposits. This hot stuff will also be causing early or late random misfires while running (preignition / pinking). The hot stuff will be caused either by a too retarded ignition timing or a lean mixture. So check your ignition timing or just mark it as is then try advancing it. You can always go back to that mark. I would avoid stuffing with the mixture until you are sure the timing is correct. I also found i got those symptom when using 91 Octance in a car setup for 96 Octance.

In chch i had myne done by Circletrack engineering. Over in Wigram.

Hey, Im a chch mini owner but it isn't really worked. Swapped out the 1000cc for a 1310cc and otherwise standard. But it has been a fun project. viewtopic.php?t=8219&highlight=1971+mini

Perhaps i should mention that i did get the conversion finished. But I have the mini in storage and only gets the occasional weekend drive now.

RT - did you buy your Capri of someone in Heathcote?

Wicked; Only saw you out in gold config about a month ago while i was out in the alfa. Saw you in the distance so tried to catchup along memorial ave and caught up at the ricc/deans roundabout. Was curious to see what you'd done to the Capri. It was one of those moments which all oldschoolers must be familiar with: Turn down the stereo, wind down the windows, and don't pull away from the intersection until the other car goes - just to hear it. V8 sounded great. Good work

Hey, I haven't read through this in detail just quickly skimmed. But make sure your vacuum hose is in good condition. My pedal used to go spongy when engine bay got warm, turned out my vacuum hose had weakened as was collapsing when warm.

Two good Alfa forums: http://forum.alfa156.net/forum http://www.alfaowner.com/Forum/ I'm suffering a couple issues with myne too. 1) When cold, the car pops, and farts and doesn't rev above 3k etc for the first couple hundred metres. 2) Engine hesistates when hitting 5400rpm. Shame really cos the v6 screams beautifully between 6 and 7k. But it's a very sweet car otherwise!

Done a quick search on my other local - Ford Capri Laser Forum. http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/sea ... mit=Search Here are some replies etc http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/vie ... t=door+pin You're going to need a special tool to be honest. I'm not sure about the ones on ebay but you can make your own. You need - 2 lengths of 1/4 inch diameter round steel bar. One needs to be 2 and 3/4 inches long. The second needs to be 2 and 1/4 inches long. The second one also needs a 45 degree bend 1/2 an inch from the end. Finally, you need a length of steel bar, 14 inches long, 1 inch deep and 1/2 inch wide. Drill a 1/4 inch hole about 1/2 an inch deep 1/4 of an inch from one end of the steel bar. The round bars should sit in the hole nicely. Fabrication lesson over. The top pin has to come out downwards but you can loosen it by tapping it upwards. Put the straight rod in the hole first and hit the bottom of the flat bar with a hammer. When you want to knock it from the top you'll need the angled rod in the hole to get access. The bottom pin comes out the same way. Remember to use loads of penetrating oil to make the job easier. You can use your new tool to insert the new pins aswell. Me and a mate used this, or at least a very similar idea, to change the pins on his car and it worked. Sounds more complicated than it is really. If the tool you've seen on ebay looks something like what I've described then it might be worth getting one, but making one is fun! Give me a shout if you need a hand mate. Mark. http://www.fordcapriforum.com/forum/vie ... t=door+pin as Stocky says...why remove the dash...thought everyone knocked the pins out.but bottom one can be awkward due to shut line of bottom of door.i made an offset drift up..only takes a few minutes to remove each door,a "tip" is to let some pen-oil sit on top of the pins for a while before knocking em out....have fun.. Good luck