Ned

I can currently happily take it to 5500. Rev limit set to just shy of 6000 it think and seems happy to be there as well, just no point as it makes so little power there. And yes, they do us the same rods as a 7A. Just in case it wasnt clear, i'm not looking to build an 8000rpm screamer, but it would be nice to make power until 5500, maybe even 6000 Basically, i just want a cheap simple way of adding a little power for not too much money before summer/Drag Day in a couple months

Cheers roman! I wanna stay with the current single throttle, but thanks for the offer It's an 1800 cc 4cyl Bore of 80.5 mm and stroke of 87.5 mm (essentially making it a stroked 5K with a slightly wider and taller block) I have no idea about compression ratio sorry, or valve lift but i'll see what i can find. Peak torque was around the mid to high 2000's i believe? about 2600 or 2800 from memory? was a pretty nice flat curve though if i recall and peak HP at 4400

so.... i want more power. Last time i had a 7K on the dyno, she didnt make any power over 5000rpm, and peaked at 4400 or something. (a mighty 45kw). Up until the 4400, the curve looked good, and i kinda want to extend that curve a bit by 1000rpm or so and make some more power up there. 1) How do i go about figuring out what to get? i'm guessing i can't just call the cam guy and say "give me the thing i want!" and get the right thing. 2) Am i going to run into issues with the valve springs? Also pretty sure its hydraulic lifters, that going to be a problem? This is my first internal engine modification, so i basically know nothing. I've heard plenty of things, and can make myself sound knowledgeable and can speculate like the best of them, but kinda want some expert advice before i jump down the rabbit hole This is the "perfect outcome" in my head (excuse the high accuracy graphs) black is current, green is what i want Possible? or am i dreaming?

not a lot of #hype this month! keen for burgers and spinning shit yarns

Guessing you mean source of reasonably priced ones? I got one delivered from 14point7.com a few weeks ago for $200nz delivered. Nice little unit. Uses a few of his controllers and have all been good.

I've heard about this... Glad to see pictures as it really shows the scale of it all. You're one crazy crazy man! Keep it up!

paua are yuck! Go north island?

Yeah, thats actually much gooder

That could work, but you cant actually use the charge light, as the charge light itself is part of the alternator circuit, so you dont really wanna go feed a relay from that im guessing...?

oh, and if key on for some reason isnt powered during start (seems odd to me, but who knows) then do this

ok, so try this. So you probably dont need the capacitor, and you can get relays with built in protection diodes or resistors which will be fine, so you wont need the diode either. The LED is only if you want it. Resistor wise, a 1K to 3.3K will be fine. 680R to 10K will work but gets a little dicey. Bigger the value, the dimmer the LED. Its a double pole double throw relay (DPDT), but you could use 2 singles as well and wire them in parallel. you COULD use a single relay, and wire the wideband output from the same line that feeds the relay coil, but its nicer to have a separate relay for that stuff... as i dont know how much current you can draw from the ON signal. The idea is that the start signal powers the coil of the relay, which then flicks over and starts running off the 'on' signal from the key. It will stay that way until you turn the motor off by switching the key to ACC or Off. This means you should still be able to switch off the motor and leave it on ACC and listen to the radio without burning out your 02 sensor.

you could make a pretty simple latching circuit that would turn on when you crank the car, and off when you go to off position? should be pretty safe that way? and maybe put an LED in the dash to warn you its on for those odd times maybe?

15point7.com Spartan 2

Its so loud/perfect!

It needs to be for that cable, can't just download one willy nilly

I would 100% keep that! That's fantastic!

Pretty sure microsquirt can do 15k?

Wire wideband in with fuel pump, so its only running when the car is running. My ignition is powered by the same signal, not sure about yours, might be on the key, which is no good for the WB if you spend a lot of time twiddling things before firing up the car

i personally picked it because i could get a china 044 for $40 and i'm a cheap cunt also figured a china version probably flows much much less anyway

Im keen to go to Taupo for the weekend and drink some beers most likely...? No racing for me though

tank -> filter -> pump -> filter -> rail -> reg -> return to tank

I was able to see the pics this morning, and got through the first 2 pages until it stopped working. Keen to see the rest, your shits amazing!

$35 fuel preasure sensor wired into the ECU and then you can check/log to your hearts content fitted one in mine but more for over pressure, not low pressure. China 044 pumps way too much for my little 60hp KP haha. Makes all sorts of weird noises though, always sounds like its cavitating or something but seems weird. Have been thinking of removing the pre pump filter to see if that changes anything... Might now flow enough or something? Fuel pressure is sweet though so im not too worried

Do your relays have a built in fly back diode? Or even just a resistor? Most new relays have them (will have a symbol in parallel to the coil on the relay) That might stop it from frying in the future...

Ah, yeah, that makes sense with it connected to switched 12v. Should be fine then... Maybe measure the 12V side of the relay? Should be fine if it works when you short the micro pin to ground though, so im out...