Ned

oh, and if key on for some reason isnt powered during start (seems odd to me, but who knows) then do this

ok, so try this. So you probably dont need the capacitor, and you can get relays with built in protection diodes or resistors which will be fine, so you wont need the diode either. The LED is only if you want it. Resistor wise, a 1K to 3.3K will be fine. 680R to 10K will work but gets a little dicey. Bigger the value, the dimmer the LED. Its a double pole double throw relay (DPDT), but you could use 2 singles as well and wire them in parallel. you COULD use a single relay, and wire the wideband output from the same line that feeds the relay coil, but its nicer to have a separate relay for that stuff... as i dont know how much current you can draw from the ON signal. The idea is that the start signal powers the coil of the relay, which then flicks over and starts running off the 'on' signal from the key. It will stay that way until you turn the motor off by switching the key to ACC or Off. This means you should still be able to switch off the motor and leave it on ACC and listen to the radio without burning out your 02 sensor.

you could make a pretty simple latching circuit that would turn on when you crank the car, and off when you go to off position? should be pretty safe that way? and maybe put an LED in the dash to warn you its on for those odd times maybe?

15point7.com Spartan 2

Its so loud/perfect!

It needs to be for that cable, can't just download one willy nilly

I would 100% keep that! That's fantastic!

Pretty sure microsquirt can do 15k?

Wire wideband in with fuel pump, so its only running when the car is running. My ignition is powered by the same signal, not sure about yours, might be on the key, which is no good for the WB if you spend a lot of time twiddling things before firing up the car

i personally picked it because i could get a china 044 for $40 and i'm a cheap cunt also figured a china version probably flows much much less anyway

Im keen to go to Taupo for the weekend and drink some beers most likely...? No racing for me though

tank -> filter -> pump -> filter -> rail -> reg -> return to tank

I was able to see the pics this morning, and got through the first 2 pages until it stopped working. Keen to see the rest, your shits amazing!

$35 fuel preasure sensor wired into the ECU and then you can check/log to your hearts content fitted one in mine but more for over pressure, not low pressure. China 044 pumps way too much for my little 60hp KP haha. Makes all sorts of weird noises though, always sounds like its cavitating or something but seems weird. Have been thinking of removing the pre pump filter to see if that changes anything... Might now flow enough or something? Fuel pressure is sweet though so im not too worried

Do your relays have a built in fly back diode? Or even just a resistor? Most new relays have them (will have a symbol in parallel to the coil on the relay) That might stop it from frying in the future...

Ah, yeah, that makes sense with it connected to switched 12v. Should be fine then... Maybe measure the 12V side of the relay? Should be fine if it works when you short the micro pin to ground though, so im out...

So everything appears to work until you plug the relay into the ECU? Can you turn the car off, and read the voltage on the ECU pin? Should be ~batt voltage. Then keep measuring while turning the car on so it primes and see what it says? Maybe increase the priming pulse to 5sec or so so the multimeter has time to settle. It should read basically 0. If it doesnt, then maybe the output driver is broken and needs replacing?

Got the pump on the wrong contacts of the relay? Should be on the normally open pins

Good thing you have a Black Faggot shirt then

Nah, some bits for it at the post office that i need to collect though, so watch this space

6cyl full sequential with 3ms dwell means that at 3,333.33 RPM multiples will be on at the same time. So at worst case of say up to 10krpm, youll have 3 of them on at one time. Now just gotta see how much current they draw and what you can draw through the 18awg, which is probably 20A without any real issue? So if the coils draw less than 7A each, youre ok at a guess

Im keen

Id run the factory ignition to the trigger of a new relay maybe and run new feeds probably, just to be sure? How much do those things draw anyway? And any of it setup as wasted spark? And what sort of dwell time? Once you know that you can figure out how many will be 'on' at one time and calculate if its fine via 1 lead or not...

Mr Jackson will be picking me up in the 626 and bugging cam about washing the 86 so he'll come too

Yeah, he likes a challenge James. Not fun if you're more excited about the whole ordeal than he is...