Burntrubber

You will need a proper rail like Mikuni said and also I would try and stay away from hose tails if you can. I'm going to make a fuel rail to suit o-ring type eventually. Here's a pic hope it helps.

A lot of 80's injected cars ran hose tail injectors. They bolt to the manifold with a number of different design brackets. I have an injected Piazza engine they use hose tail injectors. The shape of the injectors is the same as many o-ring injectors I modded some falcon ones to fit but they were high impedance the ecu wouldn't have liked that. You will need to find a way of mounting them solid otherwise you'll probably get vacuum leaks or they'll pop out if its boosted. Those mount things look sweet dunno bout welding a nut on if you did you wana make it so the injector points into the port not at 90' to the runner.

I have a G200z that I heard running but never drove before I acquired it so dunno how good that is. I will have a mint G161z soonish when I pull it out of my TG Gemini to make way for an injected G200z. That engine has been refreshed also has a mild cam and is painted a nice pretty blue!

G161z is a good choice or a G200z seen as their identical just more cc's also I may have a spare engine/box laying around

You will have to chisel the extractor out then welding to the remains of the bolt works well.

I had one of these turbo's on my Gemini one of them feeding 1600cc. I tried to put a controller on and 10psi was it after that it just spiked so I left it at 7psi.

Chrome strips, the grill and bump strips can rattle at certain speeds sometimes.

Did Sierras have power steering or air con, if they did you could grab a pulley off one of them. Thats assuming its a pinto your working with.

Um I think you will find that mild steel rods are not really the best for cast you really need a high nickel rod for that sorta thing. Also should pre heat it but then again I've done a few things without pre heat and they've been sweet. As for mig flux cored wire's have a high nickel content.

You wana be careful welding cast have to use the right electrodes or wire if you mig it.

8.8 should be ok. I think tensile grade's go from 4.6 which is mild steel up to 14.9 from memory.

I had it ages ago in my Gemini I changed the wheel bearings hoping for an easy fix in the end I put a whole diff housing I had in and it fixed it. I found that the torque tube rubber was ripped so I decided thats what it was.

How about the plugs shit running when cold and cutting under boost are symptoms of faulty plugs especially the cutting under boost.

I had this happen to me when I first turboed my Gemini I locked the dizzy and ran 22 degrees static timing was good untill the plugs were a few weeks old because they were new when did it all. Anyway changed battery first then the starter then the alternator then backed the timing down and it was all good. That was over a year ago and I still use the battery that I thought was fucked.

The 2.3L is a lot longer than the 2.0L my mate has a MK1 escort he bought a 2.3 turbo engine from a Mustang and it didn't even fit in the engine bay he reckons. He already had a 2.0L in there and he had already moved the radiator froward when he did that but it still wasn't enough. He's keep the carb and carb hat and most of the other turbo shit.

My engine runs 28.3psi which is more like 28psi bit hard to get the .3 thats at idle and about 35-38 under load. The pressure depends on what the injectors are designed for they all vary. Low pressure can be caused by a stuffed fuel pressure regulator and also check the voltage going to the pump if its below what the pumps rated for that will cause problems aswell. You want a rising rate regulator for your turbo setup but you probably already got one.

The r32/r33 turbo's are good for 250kw more so the r33 its the same as the r32 turbo but with different trims and flows a bit more I think. Not 100% sure on how true that is just have a couple of mate's who are into Nissan's and talk about this sorta thing all the time.

Whats the engine and ignition is it points or electronic. I would say you have some of the wiring mucked up done it myself sure you have it right but no got no spark.

I like the r32/r33 turbos they are a great turbo for 2L or a more worked 1.6L. They were all ball bearing and most with a ceramic turbine which made them spool real quick I know a few people who have used them on 1.6L's and get boost bellow 3000rpm. I have one I'm gunna use on my 2L Gemini I reckon I will get good results from it. If you don't like the ceramic wheel you can go for a VG30 one from a 300zx alot of them had a full steel shaft rather than the ceramic turbine. They also have slightly different trim I've been told.

Don't think so but it will explode if compressed to more than 15psi.

Gasless wire is sweet on stuff over 2mm especially if its galvanized. Its not the best on panel steel but someone whos good with it can do it. We use it all the time where I work like 10 5kg rolls a month. Its also very expensive about $100 for a 5kg roll.

120amp mig is all good for panel work not really much good for anything above 3mm although most are rated to do thicker they tend to struggle to actually do it. Use it with a shielding gas coreshield wire is a bit tricky on thin stuff but its sweet on 2mm+

Mate bought some for his 13b PP but he flagged it and went with an IDA because he got told they would'nt be any good for the rotor. I remember him saying $1200 that might be each I dunno.

My friend got his misting jet from this place I think he got the switch from there also. http://www.waterinjection.co.nz

Me an a friend made a setup about three years ago for his 1.5 SOHC turbo 323 think it was an 84. We used a washer bottle pump from a VT Commy because they run 35-40 psi which is good compaired to jap ones. A proper misting jet from aquamist and an adjustable pressure switch to turn it on. We just used washer fluid with a little extra added methonol worked sweet as he ran 12psi for about 4 months then it blew the head gasket and he thrashed the tits off it.