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oh hey bro, good to see you over here. love the rag, still talking about having one day but as i seem to own more and more utes it could be a long time away. hows the L200 coming along???? cheers Matt

if you're going to fuck around with front arms you may as well swap to hilux, not that much of a major, can get drop spindles easy, can go 5 stud which gives you an unbelievably sweeter selection of wheels and it would be pretty simple to put a hilux diff in the back too, check width first though. you could buy the rn25 one of the guys off here is selling for a skinny diff, they're a heaps better width than most hilux ones and you can later centres in, just not axles unless you get them shortened and resplined. plus if you have to cut the tunnel cab off, put engine in, tack, put cab on minus tunnel, check clearances, take cab off, final weld, cab on, sort tunnel. bit of fucking around with taking the cab on and off but you'll get the best result. cheers Matt

if you start changing the mounting positions for your lower arms it will fuck up your handling pretty badly. you'd need to also move in the steering arms so they're still the same length as the arms and pivot points are the same front to back as the lower arms. i'm not 100% clued up on suspension stuff but i have done a fair bit of reading on this sort of subject due to considering the possibility of swapping rack and pinion into a TA23 i used to have. i can't tell you why it won't work (do a search on ackerman angle and related stuff) but it will give you stupid amounts of bump steer and make the car pretty much undriveable. i'd throw everything together and see how bad it is, from what i heard back in the day starions give about 5 degrees less than EX2000's and with my EX lowered 3 inches it had 3 or 4 degrees negative. you could live with 8-9 degrees, it would be pretty hard on tires but would look fucking sweet. cheers Matt

sweet little lancer, some good plans you've got there. just a couple of points that might help, starion struts will produce a hell of a lot more negative camber. that plus lowerage might mean too much, EX1800's and EX2000's run the same brakes and struts with less camber if you can find some. the 1600 lancers run the same radiator's as the sigma's, bigger than the 1200's. looking at that picture of the boosters it looks like a different bolt pattern, the sigma one looks like its a perfect diamond while the lancer one looks like its shorter from top to bottom than side to side. i tried fitting a starion booster and master in my old EX, ended up using just the master on my EX1600 booster because there was no room for the booster. from memory that was because of the location of my clutch master though so you might not have that problem with a cable clutch. looking forward to seeing your progress, wish i could have found a shell that sweet before i gave up and stripped my rust bucket. would be still running around in it now. cheers Matt

fuck thats cool. damn i wish i could find a decent ke10. my sisters mate had a 4 door when i was at school, before i got into oldschool toyota's. wish i knew what happened to it. probably got paddock bashed cheers Matt

fuck thats tidy, good to see a build with no half arsed fucking around in it. got to be one of the mintest ke wagons in the country. cheers Matt

lol, do it!!!!!!!!!!! the whole world should know how cool ms5* crowns are on bags. shouldn't be too hard to set up, how different are the chassis's between 5* and 6*'s???? get install info from loceda, bag kit for 2-4K depending on how serious you want to get (quality gear here, slam, vi-air, etc. don't fuck around with cheap shit) and i'd be surprised if you didn't have the gear and skills to install it. cheers Matt

meh, just realised it was a fucking auto. maybe worth it for the sweet 2M?????? /not cheers Matt

still need gearbox??? couldn't remember if you got it sorted and i'm sure you were looking for one so: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 030333.htm in hamilton, somebody must be able to pick it up though. cheers Matt

need spares??? this is on Trademe at the moment (click pic for link): its at $102 but hasn't met reserve. cheers Matt

need pics!!!!!!!!!!! sounds good though, try Neil Fraser for certing, he used to build 3s powered kit cars all the time, probably built this even with the twin carb setup. as for price on engine and carb setup i wouldn't have a clue, but definitly interested when it comes up for sale. cheers Matt

sweet, glad to hear. as for the spacers thing they need to be certed if you use any form, the slip on one's can be up to 10mm, the bolt on one's (adapters rather than spacers) can be up to 27mm. (this is from a guy that does certs, pretty sure its not exactly by the book, i think the book says 25mm but most american imported bolt on spacers are an inch thick so they give you that leeway) you still need to have 7 full turns on your wheel nuts so you could need to get longer wheel studs if you're just using slip on spacers. cheers Matt

looks like some sweet power going in there, thought it must just be a cruiser. saw it on the auckland motorway a couple of months back, wheels looked ludicrously large, nice......... cheers Matt

wrong stud pattern for you but there's some 13" superlite style wheel's down at tauranga pick a part, need a very good clean but look straight. shit tyres, got subaru centre caps and i'm pretty sure they came off a leone sitting in the yard at the moment so if anybody's got fucked up subaru 4 stud (waimaks?????) they're only $150. no other information on the back sorry cheers Matt

awesome little VW mate, love it. i like them with bumpers, especially the towel rail style ones. up to you though, it still looks fucking cool without them. cheers Matt

yup, w40 and w50 fit same bellhousing, done the swap myself. cheers Matt

are diff and front brakes better spec in the old one or something??? for clutch lines and shit just go in to any brake place, they should either be able to do it for you or recommend somewhere to go, don't let them send it out because that just means they're putting their price on top and there's heaps of places that do it. just do a measure with a wire coathanger to find length if you haven't got an old one to take in. also they probably won't want to bend it to shape, just do it yourself, i used two small spanners to get tight bends, you should work it out. oh yeah, + 1 for sweet little car. cheers Matt

yeah, noticed that. its sitting on my watchlist, nice adn cheap but i got nowhere to put it at the moment cheers Matt

is that what all that writing was on the back for, boring /nah, tried that and it was shit. meh, will wait, buy house soon, garage can be temporary paint booth to start with. cheers Matt

there's an r31 forum in Aussie, they know shitloads about this sort of stuff. do searchs and shit before asking to avoid flaming, its one of those forums. i can't remember what its called cause my link is on my other computer but kyteler put me onto it originally so he'll know. cheers Matt

up in tauranga bruv, long way to go for paint. cheers for the offer though. cheers Matt

well i've actually got a compressor and a spray gun, just nowhere to do it. staying at my old mans at the moment. how far will the paint drift if i use a compressor???? plus whats the deal with the paint and thinners??? i don't know anything about that sort of stuff, never done it before. cheers Matt

been doing a bit of a touch up on my ute, it's not long term but i'll be driving it for the next few months the way things are going before it comes off the roda so i want it to be at least one colour (currently 5). i bought some cheap export spray cans from supercheap, i've already done a couple of panels but the paint isn't doing the best job of sticking. i've just been sanding then cleaning with wax and grease remover as prep, not taking it right down to bare metal or anything. then painting, lots of thin coats til i've got a solid colour then stopped pretty much. do i need to prime it???? any other helpful hints or tips because its pretty much rubbing off again, not just in the next couple of days but even weeks later. is it just because the paint is such crap quality??? would i get a better sticking result with some $15 a can paint??? is this export shit just for the taggers cheers Matt

sounds like cv to me, had similar symptoms in an integra i used to own, just drive slow fast slow fast slow fast etc. sound coming from one side??? not sure???? could even be an inner cv although usually its the outers that go. cheers Matt

can you actually turn with those wheels on the front???? looks like they would swing straight into the guards front and back. looks sick with the flares on though, doesn't even need more lowerage (IMO) cause they cover the gap between tyre and guard nicely. that said C notch for the fucking win, front will never go that low though cause your seat is where the wheel would need to be. cheers Matt