RUNAMUCK

I dont know if they still "make" clutches as such. By Tony at clutch systems NZ in chch is the fucking man with clutches.

Yes you're tired by the end. But you'll have bugs in your teeth from smiling so much....

You say that now, but you wont want it to end when you're there.....

Unless you have massively soggy engine mounts that allow the motor to bounce all over the place, I'd be very surprised if the clearance you have there is a problem?

Just happened across your thread for the first time. You have all the drag link clearance! Mine is tons closer. Defo pays to check your full range of steering too. On some vehicles, the link raises and lowers although its sweep. And some it moves forward and back.

Shinko SR421 is hard to beat.

I'd try compressed air tbh. Put 120psi on it, and warm the dent with an oxy acetylene torch. Set up camera to film the dent popping out.* *pleez dont. But compressed air is what I'd try

A bunch of pests pesting

Early chrysler autos had two pumps. So you could tow start them. (Or so I've been told)

Find an auto rear counterweight, then you can bolt on a neutral aftermarket flywheel. I'tl need to from an engine weight the rotors as yours.

BBW, BIG BEATIFUL WHEELS!

If you watch the video in that link, the guy points out that the mazda has a centrifugal supercharger on it........

The problem I see is, if the cylinder miss fires, theres nothing to pull the piston down the bore, and it would lose contact with the wavy thing. From there, theres probably no recovery? Also I dont get how it starts without the combustion to keep the follower in contact with the ramp???

I need to find one with an inbuilt mounting clip.

The inside of 50 year old steel gas tanks can be nasty too.

I dont think I have any pics from before sorry.but it came up mint.

Why is it/isnt it a good idea to run a fuel filter on the suction side of a low pressure fuel pump? A dead fuel pump = a bad time. So surely keeping any shit from the tank out has to be a good idea to promote longevity?

99% sure you must run a rubber bush at one end of each arm for cert. Something about the give they offer meaning they wont bind. Make sure any rose joints you use are rated for motorsport use.

I'm going to be running two pumps. A low pressure lift pump feeding the surge tank, and an EFI pump feeding the engine. Theres a bit of nutting out required as to how it all needs to go.

Fuel pump orientation, Do they need to be mounted with the inlet and discharge ports at the same height? Or can they be mounted one looking up, and one looking down? Starting to think about my fuel system, and it's making my head hurt.

Still better than the Porika track was this year.........

Have you tried hooking it up in parallel with a fully charged known good battery? I've reinvigorated unresponsive batteries that way before. All this smart tech the batteries and chargers have is no match for good old fashioned gravity.

They reckon this was more important with ancient castings where casting detritus would escape from the metal forever. The proper Barry method is to polish the block.

I've seen POR15 engine enamal used brush on, and the result was awful. Didnt self level nicely at all. Spray and walk away!

"Engine emamal" is a fallacy. All the engine paint I've ever seen was been akin to the worst cheapest, nastiest rattle can paint. I had RJP make me some colour match (regular car paint) once. It turned out heaps nicer, and was a million times more durable than any "engine paint" I ever used. If you're really trying to create something "wow" paint it yourself with 2k. Theres a short block at mums which dad painted in about 1980 with 2pack "superthane" paint. (Its the second tier 2pack from that manufacturer) and although that motor was flogged mercilessly, (been overheated multiple times, HEAPS of towing really heavy shit on hot days, and burnouts for days) you can wipe the block with a rag, and the paint still looks new. Any engine guy will just shake the can for 30 seconds, and spray it on. They're engine guys, not painters.