RUNAMUCK

Only time I had to refuel road side last year was between tiniroto pub, and gizzy. So working in reverse, I'll need to fill up between the tiniroto pub, and lake Waikerimoana. Except I'm on a different machine/who knows?

Having suffered serious injuries resulting in a permanent disability from not wearing a seat belt in a low/medium speed accident that I otherwise would have walked away from, I concur with KK's sentiments wholeheartedly. Plus a car that old is a poor handling barge, with little to no other safety features whatsoever.

I dont recall if I've posted in this thread before, or what I said if I did. (Cbf rereading it) but my limited understanding is that you need to intercool the charge between the turbo and the supercharger. And the supercharger needs to be geared so that the pressure ratio is in its efficiency island. (The sweet spot on its compressor map) the blower just takes air, and compresses it/multiplies the atmospheric pressure present in its intake by whatever boost ratio its geared to. Our atmosphere is like 14.7psi. So if the boost ratio is 1.5, you'll see 1.5 times atmospheric pressure, or 7psi of "boost" but if a turbo/turbos are poking 10psi above the ambient atmospheric into the intake of the belt driven pump, then itll multiply that by 1.5. 14.7+10×1.5-14.7=22.35psi "boost" (mathematically anyway, real world figures may differ due to a number of variables) Also turbo sizing needs to be correct for your engine displacement, multiplied by the boost ratio too. So say an SR20, with a blower pushing 7psi of boost would need a turbo sized for a 3ltr engine, as the volume of air being moved is 1.5 times NA *disclaimer, the preceding might be completely incorrect, and I'm only too happy to be proved wrong by someone who knows better

Wicked thanks! I think everything bar the pipe will be easy 100mm+

Ground clearance, Lower than 100mm needs cert? Or do cert guys not like to do stuff under a hundy? (I should know this stuff, but I dont) does that include the zhorst too? I'm thinking I really should buy some 50mm drop spindles. But cunting around under it earlier tonight, a 145mm block of wood wouldnt quite fit under the zhorst. It's a festering cunt of a shape. Am I gonna have to fit taller tyres should I go for cert, (sooner or later i probably should) or jam a steel block between the pipe and the chassis heat her up and jack the car up on the pipe to redistribute its shape sideways? Or is a cert man gonna be a GC and say 90ish mm is all G, sick ride bro do a skid?

Because modified cars love to let the smoke out, I'm going to be fitting an isolator 100%.

Some charger from super shit auto. Caliber maybe? 5he mother in law bought it for me.

Ha! I was totes going to suggest a 500cfm 4bbl carterBrock! They're a spreadbore, so small primaries for tootle-ing around. And big holes for when you're doorting. Plus they have a draft door on the secondaries. So even pegged wide open, the engine never gets more air than it can pull. Perfect for a small* engine like the O.P. has. (No over carburation issues) Also plus, they cant leak because the bowl is sealed. You really need to buy a tuning pack of jets and needles to set them up right Is all. The 750 on dads 418 goes whizzer. When you open the secondaries at 50mph, the car tries to change lanes.

Datsun GN620 ute. (Basically like @Sparkle old one)

Actually I'm telling lies. Two fuel pumps, Big electric fan ECU Etc.

My charger has the desulphating pulse for lead acid, but also has "gel" and "calcium" modes too. Thread dredge. I'm thinking that a lot of my mounting issues will evaporate if I buy a small battery. 2000cc engine. Very few accessories.

Youd need clean air separation where the internal trumpet terminates though.

The people who design this stuff for a living are mathematicians/scientists/wizards/witch doctors. But the "guys at home" like yourself who dream up stuff like this will on a good day put the aforementioned group to shame. I look forward to the results!

Bit of a linger, But a bloke in aussie sells an airbox to put in triple 48mm weber's on a 265 hemi. They add something like 16 horsepower just from the colder air

Regarding the transition, the "transfer slot" which supplies fuel mixture at part opening until the airflow through the venturis is sufficient to draw fuel through from the main circuit, these are metered off the idle screws. So if its lean just off idle, I'd fatten if the idle mixture screws a bit. On the subject of the idle screws, if the are foil stickers on the metering blocks around the idle screws, then it's a "reverse" idle screw. Where it controls air to the idle circuit instead of fuel. (Some emissions bullshit) so winding it In makes it richer, and winding it out makes it leaner. Often the foil is still visible, but the "reverse" part is no longer legible.

@Yowzer This is one of those times when you must do what has to be done...........

If the idle mixture screws have no effect, then you've got a blown powervalve diaphram. That will make it fearsome rich too.

It will 100% need a rekit. I wouldnt put too much stock in what racecar guys ran. A road car will have completely different requirements. In fact in more recent times (like after a book I have called "how to modify and super tune Holley carburetors" was printed) they produced a 465cfm vac sec. Which goes well on a 5ltr v8. People are always overcarburating their engines. One dirt track neanderthal at work bragged how well a 900cfm carb went on some "small" ford in line 6. (Might have been a 221?) On one engine I saw first hand a 390cfm 4bbl would light the tyres with a stock converted when given a hard stomp. Yet with a 600 it would not.

What size is in it now? Does it have a secondary metering block with jets, or just holes? I got really good at taking mine apart. They're a pretty basic carb. They're not cheap, but a 390 would be way more responsive on your engine. Higher air speed through the venturi would make for strong bottom.end torque.

I'd be running the chain off a reel mower. I've broken too many bike chains to take the chance. If that chain fails, its GAME OVER! For your engine. The oil pump chain drive from a Mazda rotary is double row no? Some things should always be over engineered imho.

Everytime I've dealt with them they rub me up the wrong way. Their customer service is rubbish.

Run a high zinc oil too. I've heard many good things about kennelly. I'll use him next time. I'll never use kelfords again.

Did you have your lifters faced too? Which shop did you use?

That would probably do the job of underlay quite nicely. And at that price it's worth a shot.

I only show up to get the sticker. I dont even like small bikes......