RUNAMUCK

If people were keen to go back up to the go-kart track, it would be insanity not to head inland just past cheviot, and cut through Waiou. The road spits you out after the hundalees (sp?) about 200m away from the track. Plus the road has sweet fuck all traffic, and is a great mix of straights, hills, and twisty-turnys. I passengered that route last year, and spent the whole time wishing I was driving myself.

When quality rebuilds was in Christuchuch, I spoke to the (now former) owner Barry Emmes about modifing a standard vac advance Diaphram to become a boost retard diaphram. He sold the company to a mob who are now in Auckland, but they may be able to convert one for you. The beauty of boost retard is that when you're off boost, but still stoking along you get the benifit of better fuel economy than you would without the added advance.

Hey, Are you mates with Josh with the Z18et powered datsun 1600? I saw a KE20 very much like yours at his house aa while back.

Start by registering at www.nzdatsun.com. Best NZ based datsun site by far. For your fuel requirements, you're going to need a surge tank. You'll have to run a low pressure lift pump between the ruel tank and the surge tank. A cheap option is the ones found on carb'd subaru leones. (Identical to a facet) They're a bit hard to locate on the car though. (Found under a small steel plate, just in front of the right rear wheel) Then you'll need a high pressure EFI pump. The easiest and most commenly used one is the VL commodore one. They're popular becuase they aren't an intank pump, and they're common and cheap. The cunty bit is you'll need to run a fuel return line back to the tank. You'll need to use steel for this. The tube isn't that costly, but it's a real cunt to work with. What I've done with one of my datsuns is run a nice 3/8 steel line for supply, and used the old 1/4 line for the return. You're also going to need to have a return hose nipple fitted into your fuel tank. As for the brakes, there are many many options available to you. A very easy upgrade is to fit S13 (non sr20det powered ones) brakes to your existing struts. But then you're still left with spindley stub axles, and weak springs. you can fit heavier springs though. Also are we talking about a B210 or a B310? The S13 swap aplies to the 110/210. The 310 is a different kettle of fish again.

Another way you could set up your vac advance, (Which nis how I plan to try mine when I ditch my locked dizzy, and go to my new old stock one) is run the feed to the diaphram from after the turbo. Then static time your engine with the hose connected. (At idle) I don't know about a turbo engine, But I have loads of vaccuum at idle on my supercharged engine. So It stands to reason the Vac mechanism will provide decent advance. Then once the turbo begins to spool, this "Initial" advance will fall way. Hopefully leaving the total advance at a safe number of degrees. I'm not a huge fan of locked dizzy's, but thats what I've been forced to run myself thus far.

DId they have a boost retard style diaphram on the dizzy?

Fuck yeah I am! I just got my car going again today too. Lets just keep it a bit more chilled than last years one though aye? All those DX rolla's and flat peakers were just a bit much for me. I had a mad lol at the wheatsheaf pub, I think everyone stayed in the carpark cos they were all to young to get served!

Shit, I like your work mate. It seems your skills at building a sweet project are only surpassed by your ability to meticulusly documnet everything. I even had a browse of your rotorvette build. You make fitting a rotor look as easy as just swapping over one 1256 to another, when compared to fitting say a G200. lol

Well if you're going to spend a few bucks on new parts, it's money for shit if you fuck up something simple and it turns out poos. I bought some parts of a guy with ADHD once. He was actually quite a nice guy, and he did me a good deal. He was "rebuilding" a motor in his shed when I turned up. I'll always try to help people with a bit of advise when I can, but he just didn't have a clue about the right and wrong way to build a motor. The block was standing on it's end on a filthy wooden garage floor. He was cleaning nothing, and tapping the new bearing shells into the block with a hammer and screw driver. I could see how stoked he was that he was going to have an "sweet rebuilt engine" for his car. I had to just bite my lip, wish him well and be on my way. I ALWAYS remember that when I see an engine advertised as having been "rebuilt".

Also, here is a picture I posted on another site of the cam timing. It's important that you count the links in the chain. (hence why I numbered them in the picture)

ALL the Aseries rods I have ever seen have had the number stamped on the rod/rod caps. Without checking my w/shop manual, I think the rod oilers point to the camshaft side of the block. It's not hard to know which way around the main caps go. All the numbers face the same way, and the rear main cap can only go on one way. Last motor I freshened up, (Honed, rings, bearings, gaskets, and timing chain) only cost me about $300. It lasted a solid 400kms too. (and one drag meeting) Mind you it was running one bar of boost with no intercooler. lol If you get the basics right, the a series motor is very hard to fuck up. Do check the ring grooves though. I've found they can burn nil oil, but have quite a lot of blowby if the top ring grooves are a bit sloppy. Mind you brutally boosting used N/A pistons with maximum malice and no mechanical sympathy doesn't aid things.

Well I bbit the bullet, and let my fingers do the walking. (Mainly cos I was too poor to buy gas to drive around asking at places) Lots of cunt's were shut for the break. Finished up going to elite powdercoaters and abraisive blasting in sydenham. The guy ended up charging me $10 less that he quoted too. Ten minutes later I had them hanging from a bit of wire and now they're curing in the sun. Came out bloody good too! So tommorrow I'll fit the fuckers up, and they can get cured properly.

Those numbers don't relate to the cylinder number. I think the "F" denotes that that side of the piston points towards the front of the block. You should be able to find imost of the info you're going to need (torque values etc) here http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediawiki ... cyclopedia

I flagged the header tape ages ago. It turned to shit pretty quickly.

hey who in CHCH do I talk to, to get my headers sandblasted cheap cheap? I really want to get them blasted so I can paint them good and then not have to worry about them again. The factory paint that coby put on them turned to shit the instant I started the motor. I sanded them back and did the hot paint thing, but since I had them header wrapped for a time, this has turned to shit also. So I really want to make them lush again, with the veiw to further corrosion protection. I used to know a bloke who did sandblasting for me for a box of beers, but he doesn't answer my txts any more. So I'm looking for a similar type deal. Anyone?

The J would be lush if only it had a 5 main crank. That is all.

Make it a few degrees cooler so I can work on my car without getting bakes like a christmas turkey?

I'm hoping to be there. If I'm very very very lucky, I might even have my new drag tyres and locked diff in.

Ute looks uber lush.

It's a bit of a wives tale that it's hell unsafe to lighten a cast flywheel. Obviously there are limits, but I have a nissan motorsport race/rally prep guide for the datsun 1200. And it includes a drawing of how much meat to remove from the flywheel. While it's not dangerously thin, it would be a complete pig in trafffic with the f/wheel in that book.

Here are the details, Meet up at the Target furniture car park Blenheim Rd at 10am Depart 10:30am, heading south to Ashburton. Parking up in the carpark in the main drag, opposite the McDonalds/shell garage at 11:30am. Once everyone has caught up/meet up with anyone from south of christchurch, we'll be heading to Methevn via the Ashburton Methven highway where we'll be calling into the brown pub for a refreshment stop. From here we'll be heading to the Rakaia gorge, for a BBQ and a swim. Sausages $2 each, all proceeds to the club. (BBQ will be available to cook any food you wish to bring yourself after the sausage sizzle) Following that we'll be heading back to Christchurch via the Hororata Pub for another refreshemnts break, and maybe a pie. This cruise is open to all Datsuns, Datsun era Nissans, and vehicles manufactured by the price motor company. See you Mofo's there!

please do. I have a mate who is heading north over the Xmas breaak too. So mayhap we can save you some coin on postage if frieght is rapage. (Prolly wont for a coupley of cabies though)

Sure boe. I fin work at 320pm each day, so I have plenty of time to do a pick up for you mate.

There's a bloke here in CHCH with a mega old mitis colt. (Like around '68-'69 vintage) He's keen as to hook up with owners of old cars and doing runs etc. Google the jap crap car club. I have his card somehwere.

Doesn't change the fact that datsun rule. A12 vs 1256 is like David tua vs jason gunn. Having a clever back end but a 1256 up front is like being front the planet krypton, but being born with down syndrome.