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Everything posted by RUNAMUCK

  1. Seeing those flares, you gotta slam it now! It would look mean as.
  2. I was all set to come. But I'm going down to fight the fire down south tomorrow, and wont be back till sunday night. I'm pretty gutted, but it means more coin to spend on my ride. Win some lose some. Take note of what time tha morrie runs aye.
  3. [quote="filthy one" NA fuck no i'll be going for a look I ment i was boycoting taking my car ...
  4. Shit no, Im not offended in the least! I shake my head and laugh down my sleeve at the bogan munters there too. But The rangiora Car show is more my seen than the four and rotas. I think it's pretty much a given than you're going to get fuckwits at any car event. If some cunt threw something at my ride, I'd make orphans or their children. I choose not to attend 4 and rotas, But I stop short of saying boycot it. Or have I mistconstrued your post? Were you saying you'll be boycoting it, or everyone should? Thats what I thought you were saying.
  5. It's funny, I steer clear of the 4 and rota show cos of all the hairy arse dickheads with their jeans around their knees, and their hats on backwards. Maybe I'm a closet bigan. Just that I wear by black clothes and mullet on the inside. I'd rather wander around in the sunshine guzzling an 8%440, than be packed into a stadium full of pimply cretins ooohing and aaahing over shiny wheels and other ricer shit.

    datsun vr4

    There is (or was) 140j datsun on trademe with a vr4 motor in it. He wasnt asking much for it either.
  7. The limiting factor with this method is if you fully slam your car, the shock still had the potential to bottom out internally. Where as with a shrtened shock that can't happen. I was hsown this trick originally by my warrant man. I remember riding in rx2's with cutties. They used to bottom out the shocks, and ride super rough. In time this fucks the shocks beyond repair. But it's fat that with sum pipe and and angle grinder you can slam your car and still have captive springs.
  8. I have slidehammer if you want to give that a try. Maybe Chris or warrick could weld up the holes after you pull them out.
  9. True true! I'm the guy with the White datsun. I got a ride to the gas station with you that day the useless buggers (I suppose they are only volunteers) didn't bother to arrange any race fuel sales. I'm hoping to make the 20th as well.
  10. What town are you in? I've spoken to a bloke with an injected torana at the drags a few times. Are you him?
  11. Fuck it. Set up the DTI over number one piston with the head off. Wind the crank over untill the piston reaches the top of it's stroke. (When the DTI needle stops moving, but no further) note where the degree wheel is. (Mark it if need be) Wind the crankshaft in the other direction untill the piston reaches the top of it's stroke again. Make a mark. The point in the middle of these two marks is true TDC. This is because there will be a few degrees of dwell at tdc. Place a pushrod in the inlet hole for number one. Place the dti above it so that the pushrod is as vertical as possible. This will allow the DTI to measure the cam lift as acurately as possible. Wind the camshaft around untill the dti shows .050 of lift. Check the cam spec sheet. It will say something like cam timing at .050, inlet opens @ 7.5' BTDC . (Or something) Starting from your true TDC, wind the crankshaft forward (or back) the desired number of degrees. then assemble the timing chain etc. You really need an adjustable cam gear. (Kelfords sell these) Or you set up your cam sprocket half a turn out, and drill a new dowel hole into the end of the cam. (on an A series Datsun motor) Once you've tighened up your adjustable gear, (If you bought one) wind the motor over clockwise and check the number of degrees on the degree wheel when the DTI reads .050 as the valve is closing. This should match the Valve closing timing on the cam specs. Then to be extra sure it's right, check the opening and closing timing on the exhaust valve too. If you run your cam a wee bit advanced, (Have the valve open @.050 before the number of degrees in the cam specs) The engines powerband will be slightly lower in the rev range. And if you run it slightly retarded, the powerband will be later in the rev range. As a motor wears the cam timing will become slightly retarded and a used motor will begin to feel like it revs a bit more freely.
  12. You will need a DTI and a degree wheel. The rest is on the net, just do a search.
  13. I've had shitloads of Vals. (Still own two) How loud is the click when you crank it? Valiants use a starter relay. It's a black box on the left side inner gaurd. Is it manual or auto? If its an auto, there will be two spade terminals coming out at the top, one big terminal with a nut, and another spade terminal below that. The manual cars have only one terminal at the top. The other terminal is the earth feed from the inhibitor switch, this is earthed to the body on manuals. The relay will click when you turn the key. The big terminal with the nut takes a +ive battery feed from the fuseable link. When you turn the key the terminal up top lives up, which energises the relay and connects the power from the big terminal to the lower most terminal. I think that wire is brown. That wire is the crank feed to the starter motor. I think the vals with electronic ignition also have a blue wire which goes to another terminal on the starter. If these are mixed up, it wont crank on the key.
  14. If you can get a hold of a haines workshop manual, they have a pretty good wiring diagram. If you have a diagram, the rest is very easy.
  15. Yeah the good old declaration certificates were the bomb! I once had an RX3 coupe that used to get wofs with cutties!
  16. A mate of mine old man has been spannering trumpets almost since they were new. You could say he's a triumph specialist. I pop in now and again to say gudday. Despite having been his bread and butter for many years, he hates them. They are badly designed, under thought, over engineered shit boxes. everything the poms did, the japs did better. But, he did a great job of tuning the Hitachi SU's on my datsun!
  17. I started off running 7-8 degrees static, and from there I knockred it back as far as it would go. I am also looking into a few dizzy mods for this engine.
  18. I was running a decomp shim, but I wont be on the new motor. A rising rate fuel reg is only required on a blowthrough set up. Forged pistions are way too expensive. The cost of a set of forged slugs will pretty much build my whole motor.
  19. I am running a drawthrough set up, with a 32/36. It is difficult to intercool with a drawthrough, especially as I have limited room. My CR was 7.9:1. I was running an A15 head, which has a smaller chamber. It didn't melt a piston, I blew a head gasket, notched out the head face, and cracked the head. I had been running 11psi of boost, driving the blower at a ratio of 1:1. After talking to CHS, I think I may munch out a bigger dish in the piston, using the lathe. Bart.
  20. HI, I am in the throws of building another engine for my superchaged datto. A bloke I know reckoned that if the piston crown height is too low, (@TDC) this can cause detonation. My old motor had a decompression shim to drop the CR, but for one reason or another detenation hurt my old motor. This time around, since I am starting from scratch, I really want to get it right from the outset. Has anyone else heard of low piston height leading to detonation? Bart.


    A no $$$ trick to keep your springs captive with a cut/reset/shorter spring, is to remove the screw in bit in the top of the strut leg , and place a peice of pipe on top of the strut rod. Then when the jack is jacked up/ gets airbourne, the travel down will be limited, and the spring wont be able to come loose. Eh bro!
  22. Cheers for the link, interesting reading. I also have an L20b motor with twin SUs on it aswell. I'm a bit reluctant to pull the weber off as despite needing some minor rejetting, it goes quite well. (plus when I dump the seconary, it makes that cool wee blurp noise that a carburated rotary makes when the secondarys have been manualised) Anyone know why they didn't put a draft operated butterfly on the secondary in those webers? The stock datto Hitachis have them, makes them more economical. (explains why those two litre Fords are heavy drinkers).
  23. I met a bloke today through a datsun website. He had a VERY tidy 1200 SSS. I took him for a blat in my supercharged 1200 sedan. He was suitably impressed. As he has had some proir experience with both supercharged,and turboed Datsun "A" engines, I was interested in his thoughts. Anyway he reckoned that I would be better off to remove the weber 32/36 that I am currently running, and replace it with an 1 3/4 inch SU carburator. As thiis is a fairly old school query, I thought I'd ask for opinoins here. What experiences have you all had with either carb? Anyone have any Ideas as to what CFM an SU is? (some of those webers are up to 320 cfm) Plus he said that with an SU set up, I could get the whole shooting match under the hood, unlike now, where the carb and air cleaner stick about 4" inches through the bonnet. It looks very cool, and gets plenty of wide eyed stares. But I live in constant fear of a defect notice from the friendly govt revenue gathering brigade, when ever I drive it. Mind you if the enemy did pull me over, and asked to see my cert plate for the lowering, or the roll cage, as son as I opened the bonnet to show 'em I'd be screwed anyway. A cert is on the cards, but not for a few weeks yet..

    car shat itself

    Stick a timing light on it. Is the dizzy clamp tight? if so, is the rotor snug on the dizzy shaft? Has the spring come off the mech advance weights? How good is your fuel? I has a rotor move on the dizzy shaft once. It gave it about 20 degrees advance and the bastard wouldn't start.
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