peteretep

is it generally considered a stupid idea for a street car? the interior of my escort is unusually hot even with the fancy radiator. It seems like I could fit a jabsco fan and hook it up to the outlets to blow air on the windscreen without too much trouble

I was just looking around under the dash at a place to put the new ecu, and discovered that my heater is leaking from somewhere, looked like a couple of places. I will take it out some time this week. What are opinions on removing it all together and fit a fan only or is that a dumb idea?

what are you doing this weekend rookie dave, you need a hand maybe?/the hotpools need a bit of looking at?

damn thats some serious power man

pretty sure each pin is sealed, strain relief is just to protect the pins if the wires get pulled etc

side cutters it is then

I'll wait till the parts get here and make a decision, I dont want to spend heaps on a crappy crimper I'll never use again. also might be able to borrow one from someone

this looks like the thing here http://www.aliexpress.com/item/YJQ-W1A-Adjustable-aviation-hand-crimp-tool-M22520-2-01-multifunctional-plier-20-32AWG-electronic-connectors/1047611477.html would this work though? or is is completely different? http://www.aliexpress.com/item/NEW-0-25-6mm2-Terminal-Crimping-Tool-Bootlace-Ferrule-Crimper-Wire-end-Cord-end-lug-free/1466796991.html

what kind of crimper do I need for that type of pin?

I just bought this http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=141158659256&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:AU:3160 $65 delivered, I will let you guys know in a week or 2 what it actually looks like and its size. I'm not sure I understand how the wires are fitted into the pins If it really comes down to it then I can do it tom misa spec though and yeah, not all wires are going through the firewall

I had a similar problem with a terrano gearbox, im pretty sure it means that the gearbox is nearing the end of its life/needs a rebuild but I cant remember why

got any pics/model numbers of what you bought. where did you get them from?

I just want to be able to unclip the loom in the engine bay if the engine is removed, and its a tidy way of going through the firewall

I think earth problem, I had a similar problem where the earth would get hot because it was so crap and break down due to resistance above a certain rpm, sorted the earth and problem went away. It could be a little hard to track because its only when hot/high current but just follow all the wires meticulously

give me some part numbers tom and ill buy them this guy has run a shielded cable through a connector http://www.clubgti.com/showthread.php?191774-My-Wiring-Looms-Build!-24v-R32-Mk3-Mk1-V6-Content/page2 there is also a few good connectors shown on that site, one of the issues is getting the right parts though

I am fitting an ecu to run my escort, I would like to fit a connector at the bulkhead / firewall so that it can be easily disconnected to remove the engine etc. I bought a connector from diyautotune but it is massive, maybe it looks like a good size in an american car but it is way too big for what I want. http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/weather-pack-22-position-bulkhead-connector-kit-p-364.html There are 1 million variations on the milspec connector but I am finding it hard to select one that would suit me and not cost $300+ something like this would be sweet http://www.waytekwire.com/item/38488/ Ideally I want something with at least 16 pins and maybe 4-5 pins capable of running 7+ amps or are they a bad idea and I should do something else

next order just turned up, was going to try get this fitted/running before nats but timing doesnt agree so much any more. I just need to order throttle bodies, then get manifold and hall effect sensor bracket made. Then I will have everything required in theory

thats what I said above ned, In my case I dont have a collector fitted but the vac advance works properly just past no throttle so I havent been bothered to change it also, yeah if there is a check valve fitted as normal then you should be fine, maybe just check its still working. I dont know much about where/how they are fitted normally and whether its different between manufacturers

I have fittings in the runners for vacuum, all I use it for is vacuum advance. you might be able to take vacuum from the carbs but you should check to see what side of the throttle plates the signal is coming from, if it is upstream on the throttles then it will never get vacuum in our setups (normally these would be in an airbox and get some vacuum). If it is downstream of the throttles then you should be able to use the vacuum in theory. Also, if you want to take a vac line from the carbs, make sure it is vacuum and not fuel bowl overflow vac advance is used at motorway speeds to lean out under no throttle, ie is used for saving gas. I have mine hooked into all 4 runners and the vacuum diaphragm pulses at idle. If I fitted a vacuum chamber as seen in your pic then I would imagine the problem would go away If you want to use vacuum for a brake booster, just make sure that you have a check valve fitted in line so that vacuum is accumulated and wont drop at full throttle

I now have new ls2 coils, leads and 12v wiring plugs as well as laser cut brackets. NZ post is messing me around with the microsquirt but should be here in a week or so there are 2 of these brackets which will be mounted to the tappet cover

low n slow, best way to do it is just by manually measuring everything and maybe comparing to a photocopy, it shouldnt take you more than 30 mins

first of new parts turned up today

how are you measuring 0.97mm, what is that relating to? maybe a picture would help

really like what you are doing here manu just with regards to people hassling you about rust etc, surely one of those stupid new steel framed houses is worse than this, especially when this is made of some crazy ocean resistance metal vs 0.5mm galv

OK, I think I understand what I am getting myself into. ill mount it similar to the picture above, mostly because its quickest and easiest, if I get problems I can always change it