peteretep

I might actually be able to get my car running for this

my car sounds the same if not better with jetski throttle bodies and change to a trigger wheel, the dizzy solution is always a half assed one

yeah that is not part of the gaurd, the gaurd has a folding on the back edge that slides onto that section these guys have pretty much the best selection of parts, but I'm not sure they have those sections http://magnumclassicfordpanels.co.uk/catalogsearch/advanced/result/?limit=30&model=13

where the gaurd comes around to the front of the front door, it is not connected to the panel that sticks out off the car body

oh yeah but at high tps numbers, theres no load at bottom right of the map so it can be high without issue

I think your max advance should be at least 30 degrees as shown in the link below. My advance is mid 30's from memory, but I have not done anything to confirm or deny if that causes any damage. Seat of the pants is about it http://www.firstfives.org/faq/timing/timing_for_modified_engines.PDF

Ignition map should really wait for knock sensor and/or dyno

I'll do a write up of how to convert your old car to micro squirt one day if anyone is keen but its not a super cheap solve all but definitely worthwhile

dang I have been slack in updating this build thread Since the last update I have fitted the pedal box, played around with the tune alot and get the car running pretty good. I have raced it around hamptons a couple of times and broken lots of things I can even remember. It has a locked diff now which is actually super great. Actually I broke all the flywheel bolts off at around 7500rpm, they were brand new oem bolts done up to spec, it is quite unusual for this to happen I am lead to believe. Amazingly it did no damage, so I fitted a new set of ARP bolts and I havent had any problems since I took the car to nats and raced around a bit. During this time a 'tappet' noise would not go away and the drivers footwell flooded pretty good while driving through the rain. The exhaust headers also broken after being re welded while driving back along the gravel road to thames. I will take the engine out as I think I know what the noise is. I saw some material missing off one of the cam lobes when I put the engine back together after checking for engine damage when the flywheel broke off. I took a pic as per below but I was in a rush to get racing again so I left it. Pretty much all the welds looked like this before being re welded. now they look like this again. The main flange is mild steel and the pipes are very thin SS. I have the thing braced to the gearbox and it still breaks!!! they cost alot of money but they are fairly well trash if they keep breaking In the mean time though I thought I would check out where all the water was coming from. I found a previous fix which I had no noticed before which had rust through. The previous fix hadnt really sealed the problem so water had been getting in and sitting between several layers and caused a bit of damage. The drivers floor was also full of holes being held together with paint and underseal. I have now re sealed the interior of the car and now I am in the process of remaking the bits on the outside to refit/reweld the lower part of the gaurd back on hmm hmmmmm I also partied with dane in the middle. dont worry his gf was cool with it I am yet to remake this retarded peice, so much of it has rusted I am not really sure how it fits together and some fancy conveyors that will be conveying all of your sour cream products in the near future but dont forget

Karl that engine/gearbox looks so high

Yeah innovate lc2 works fine for me And leave it in for continuous tuning availability. I would argue that keeping it in the car longer term is fine/ value for money is good keeping it in

jeez thats a big ol garage, its going to block out the sun to your house. Is there a pic/drawing of final setup in plan with walls etc? also whats a price vaguely?

Rustisize can I come to your house and you show me panel beating

http://www.thetoyshop.co.nz/laser-tools-product/utility-dolly?i=2996&c=805 or http://www.thetoyshop.co.nz/laser-tools-product/general-purpose-dolly?i=2999&c=805 ??

I want to buy a single dolly for panel beating, which one would use guys recommend apparently one of the below hammer types is the best general panel beating hammer http://www.toolandindustrial.co.nz/shop/item.aspx/toptul-hammer-curved-finishing/16140/

unless you have a generator at the moment, I would have thought that alternator would be the same as what you currently have fitted, the 17acr is a really common alternator for british cars of the time. If you have an alternator fitted now then it 'should' bolt up. Once you get the thing and if it doesnt fit, come back here and we can tell you whats needed to change some wiring etc

Pete how cold is it? Do I need to bring boots to be warm/look like a tourist?

how cold is it gonna be in this area? I assume extremely? maybe even snow?

but you should still come along

you gonna have to share with me and dave, its gonna get cosy

you know I cant even find where the event is located where you staying v8pete?

is it super fancy or what? I assume there is lots of accomodation but I havent even looked yet

I want to go to the gondola mountain bike park and we need a car where you staying pete?

Ok I have booked flights and tickets to the event, everything else needs booking

wheres an old wives tale we can find to make everyone scared of trying this