peteretep

Tbh that noise has probably been there since the engine was rebuilt/had new bearings fitted. I just thought it was tappets for ages so didn't consider bearings. Jeez I really don't want to have to pull motor out again though

I'm pretty sure I don't have an exhaust leak. But the tapping is so powerful that with a stethoscope I can't define where it is because it's everywhere. maybe I'll try run engine with tappets cover off

I've set the tappets in my escort/crossflow and I feel they are sweet, but the engine still makes a bad ticking noise, what are the potential options for the cause? My initial thoughts with the last cam fitted was a worn down lobe and that was proven correct, but the sound persists and is possibly getting slowly worse. Sound isnt audible on decel but is pretty much everywhere else current thoughts are worn rocker or rocker shaft

why is it that tappet settings change for different cams? personally I have had no luck with bigger tappet settings, as in they make a big racket that never seems to die away and when I set the tappets to factory settings they run sweet without issue

ah yeah, the steel stuff sucks vs the cupro nickel stuff to handle/fit up. when I redid my brake lines originally I used the steel stuff and really struggled, used cupro nickel the second time and heaps easier. its quite a lot more expensive though from memory

what kind of fuel line is that?

http://www.mainlandkarting.co.nz/index.php/products1/spark-plugs/ngk-b9eg-rok-plug/ ???

Surely buying a gasket would be the cheapest most reliable option?

escort is probably sweet to race, but I havent road tuned it yet and I need to stop the oil leaking so bad. I would probably need a car trailer for peace of mind, whens next racing? 2 weeks?

It's a shame so much U.K. Stuff doesn't comply with NZ rules but at the same time it Forces us to make way better stuff. I'm glad I made my pedal box as its my own and I can modify it as needed

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/hall-effect-threaded-body-crankshaft-position-sensor-p-489.html this one was the go to threaded sensor, but it appears that it out of production or something

do some maths regarding the wall thickness remaining if the sleeve was to be M14 outside and M12 inside. unless the threaded sections are offset it just doesnt work

Also high Zddp oil that's cheap and available lots of places. Where?

Copper exhaust gaskets and brass 5/16" nuts for exhaust. Where to buy?

I potentially need to buy a new sbc head gasket set and other top end gaskets. Is normal auto shops best place for this or are there some USA specific places that would be better. I am just looking for oem spec stuff

could be low fuel pressure and leaking injectors? buy an aliexpress fuel pump too, I am running one that cost around $50 bosch 910

panel work is mostly done, wanted to get engine out to have a look at cam so did that yesterday. Found one offending lobe

I am using a aliexpress tomei fuel reg, seems legit, cost me $12

I got a set of vacuum plugs from aliexpress like this http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20150901141101&SearchText=Silicone+Blanking+Cap+Intake+ I actually bought the one below but it doesnt appear they sell it any more http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-80pc-Vacuum-Cap-Assortment/701216702.html

exactly those ones, that looks like a pretty good price, Alternatively I bought mine from rockauto and found some that were on special, just need to look through the different vehicles that had them and some are on sale and some arent

altering the pedal ratio is pretty hard, dependent on design of course

got a pic? no booster isnt super ideal but I got a cert without one

I wouldn't build one if it were me, after looking at the cost difference and my patience, just buying a complete one was way easier. Of course I didnt learn how they worked which would be awesome if you felt the need

So I should get some copper and run the fuel line in front of my ontake runners?