sentra

a point of intrest on the turbo waterlines. hundreds of factory turbo rotary motors get/got put in early mazdas and noone bothers with the waterline. the added thing to fail, make it an extra bit harder when you have to take the turbo off as its normally in the way of the last bolt you need to undo for any job. summing up. waterlines are gay as. unless you plan on using your car as a taxi and doing 600,000k+ and 680 hot shutdowns a year.

goto the library and read the haynes manual or buy one.

youd better check that address lol http://www.wises.co.nz/d/33/Auckland/Mangere+Bridge/Hastie+Avenue/Auckland/Greenlane/Greenlane/[/url]

mangere bridge greenlane?

will bring one home 4 weekend yo/ on another note whats the deal with the pads that are really unevenly worn? is that a common thing? the pad looks like the caliper floaty arrangement is 10 degrees out of square to the disc, but its not i apologise in advance for spamming up your thread

it occured to me today thinking about that article above, we should check the thicknesses, the max face runout on the left? front disc was like .08? but if how i remember that article is correct, that would make it .16 thicker than the thinnest point. if it was "warped" as such it would only be .08, that guys pretty adiment there is no such thing so im slightly inclined to belieive him. have you got an external micrometer at yours?

unless your ultra staunch n/a just run low comp rotors and the factory turbo dont even bother pulling it apart it will go forever, and beat 99% of atmo rotarys.

just was at midas thismorning sorting the same problem, they just heated bits of the system up cherry red and pushed the exhaust system up/around with a transmission jack, took an hour and $120 (inc new resonators etc to get further clearance)

i needed to quickly add some substance to my benifits list, it was the first one that came to mind mines a ported rotary, the only real diffirece was the dash got a bit rattlyer. compared to the hard suspension/spherical bearing strut tops etc your likely to be using in a car that does such cranking skids that it tears mount rubbers its un noticible. does that garage dori one have a rubber/lolathane isolator or 'just' a rod end?

noone will ever know if you leave the gbox mount rubber, it makes the car 100% more pleasant then having all mounts solid. (not technically legal but will go over cert, vtnz. 100% safe. anyone saying otherwise hasnt done it.) benifits include no exhaust flexi joint needed, minimal exhaust/body clearances, solid exhaust hangers mean you can drop the gearbox and the motor doesnt need supporting, etc.

put lumps of steel in and never look back

yeah, theres a valve/spring assembly, my memory is not clear but its a thermal pellet of some sort i think. i cant remeber what its worth or if i brought a new one. do you have a copy of the factory service manuals and the exploded view part number cattledogs? i can put them on rapidshare if you like it makes life easy.

either go invest in a flywheel (the alternator adjuster gets bolted to the flywheel and the endplate to stop the motor) or get a spackplug hole/rotor depression deadstop machined up at 14x1.25 ..*caugh caugh $15 bucks pm caugh* or go buy a couple of gaskets from your local rotary place and after youve purchased them ask them if they could quickly do it to your motor which is nicely sitting in your boot. (thats what i do for the flywheel one, all it takes is a smile) its seriosly tight + locktited in, youd need a serious rattle gun, i had a 2m bar on mine.

out of intrest, are the 'output stubs' on your 2 units solid or hollow (i.e a tube with splines on the outside)

cbf txtn its in ur letterbox dawg

measure it across flats and ill grab a bit of hex bar for you then you can wind on that with your favorite tool

offset cheap carburation setup heat problem with expensive electronic water injection in seriosuness have you looked at what other people have acheived via draw thru, short inlet tract + simple pressurised bottle of water into low pressure side of carb?

the guage gets fully tapped out and the handset goes "fuckinh water temp you cunt" in big flashing letters fuck it, keep boot in for another lap atleast. on another note. sorted brakes today, we better be aloud back to next track day

from memory its 20 or 35 psi cap, cleaned 3 row. (i think the pump is probibly not doing much above 6k, for years ive been meaning to make a perspex front cover to have a look at it) my wording of the question was a bit odd, i cant think of a better way to describe it, what i was trying to ask was, ignoring pass configurations and materials, what is the best way to make a radiator more efficent, the 3 changable dimensions being width, height, and thickness. thickness being the most commonly changed. there seems to be alot of argument against increasing the thickness to do with how the heat is absorbed into the passing air mostly in the first few mm of thickness, then all the extra thickness is doing is increasing the resistance of air passing through. it also seems most people coming up with these facts drive hondas and in the real world what they are saying isnt significant at all. i get the feeling they are trying to justify not getting a decent radiator built. there was enough comments on it for me to ask about it before parting with my money im reasonably convinced increasing thickness = ftw, theres just not many people i know who happen to actually 'really' know what there talking about and arnt trying to sell me a radiator (i actually met one once at the oaks tavern, riviting stuff) my posts are fucking long and boring spam up funny shit to break the tone hey

i want to be able to do trackwork and doghnuts in my rotary for hours at a time, ignoring pass configurations, materials i allways assumed a few things: 1 being +thickness = +cooling ability , the extra distance for air to travel and the fins pitch would be reasonably neligiable in the real world. seems lots of people are adiment that +thickness = futile for a number of reasons which sound reasonable enough, and if your going to reply youl all ready know them so i wont bother typing them out. i personally think their all full of shit and trying to justify being tightarse but theres enough comments about it to make me ask before spending 4 weeks wage on a friggen radiator cheers

is the owner of this the good as dude i was drinking piss with at nicky makays(sp)'s place

clamp hydrolic lines/line singular in solid rear axle

if a few taps with mr centerpunch around clockwise doesnt get the extractor out, give up and take the block out. trying to use carbide/cobalt drills/gas torches etc in position just dulls enthusiasm for this shit, then you end up having to pull it anyway and loseing a full day you could have been drunk in. centerpunch works suprisingly well

spoke to one of the engineers at ACL today, very helpful, couldnt belive my luck at finding someone who had the time of day. found a bearing out of a yanmar stationary engine thatl do what we want and were back on track.

i know why they keep failing i suppose its just more intresting to do this kind of thing which makes it worth doing in itself then (probibly the more economical route) of going to a diffirent motor. not the katana from west auckland?