sentra

cheers man, thats exactly what i wanted to know but couldnt find anywhere, i know the needle valves are working as i replaced them and bench tested the unit. you dont happen to know what the 'non adjustable' float height should be set to also?

yeah its a factory setup besides the fuelpump. just a simple question.

having a play with a pair of hif6's and was wondering something, i realise the needles shape is the 'adjusted' part, but does the 'jet' ever change? i put a kit trough each one (haddnt had it running previosuly), which came with replacement 'jets', (which have a diffirent style of pickup), we started the engine and it runs eyewateringly rich right thoughout the adjustable jet height range. so its 1 of 3 things, - incorrect 'jet' - problem with the cold start enrichment valve - fuel pressure -> currently running 4.5psi (measured) on a facet pump. ill put the old jets back in tomorrow, was just intrested/bouncing ideas really

if you want to do something fucking cool, slice 25mm thick wheel spacers diaganonally that would be ultra awesome to see driving.

i cbf getting into a debate on this. just measure everything properly remebering more clearance=lower tolerances=exponentially cheaper, think about intervening factors thougherly, think hard about how to describe what you want and you wont have a problem. i dont know if your giving me a hard time about being an 'expert', i dont proclaim to be one or anything but i do do this kind of shit day in day out so i thought it would be worthwhile saying something if anything to give someone the confidence to give it a go themself in a world of paying otherpeople to do everything and then putting a xyz motorsport sticker on your window.

yeah, with a provision for a seal. i tihnk you can buy weld in ones from vpw.com.au you want to measure the angle in regards to the flange the injectors want to sit, then just get the holes the the bosses need to sit in pitched off in a mill, specify it only needs to be set up with a protractor-level as the angle doesnt need to be very accurate($$) then get the holes in some extruded fuel rail pitched off to the same measurements. be sure to get them to cut a 2 diameter hole i.e the small hole through and the big one a shoulder cut to a specific depth. follow? if you walk in knowing exactly what you want done it will be cheap as.

bah i just realised i haddnt thought that through. and i imagine they haddnt eaither. just run the efi pump straight to the carb then bleed off pressure in that line with a normal 2 port lp reg t'd into it with the other port returning to the tank.

nothing

i will have a banging hangover but im pretty keen on some racing/meet you cunts, ive never been to/raced at a 'competition meet' is it just a rock up pay and race event like nsdw? can run jap import/headsup?

Hey boes, me and female sentra are looking for a flat. Somewhere central aucklandy - epsom, mt eden, onehunga, ellerslie, sandringham etc. We arent overly rowdy, in our 20s, dont argue etc etc

if your broke and have free time why not, if theres a glandnut on the top you can do it ultra easy, but that shock looks like its not macpherson style suspension/even if it broke in half it wouldnt matter really.

i did this when i was at school and broke as (not long ago), asking the same thing at the time someone said the only thing to watch out for was to put exactly exactly the same amount of oil back in. so yeah i did and put thicker oil back in, spaced the inner stop out with garden hose and i thought they were just the bees knees/worked fine. if you wanted to be a full pro you could get a very fine pitch turned in the 2 cut ends of the outer body, and a internally threaded sleeve to join it all back together.

does anyone know the exact rules on dented sills? i was under the impression that it was a no-no but my car is pretty much creased from door to door inc sills and testing station never say anything.

i dont want to sound like a homo but did you connect the engine earth lead?

because if everything on my car was reliable and never broke id get bored of it and i could have used that hour doing it properly to fix some other dodgey shit id done earlyer.

a point of intrest on the turbo waterlines. hundreds of factory turbo rotary motors get/got put in early mazdas and noone bothers with the waterline. the added thing to fail, make it an extra bit harder when you have to take the turbo off as its normally in the way of the last bolt you need to undo for any job. summing up. waterlines are gay as. unless you plan on using your car as a taxi and doing 600,000k+ and 680 hot shutdowns a year.

goto the library and read the haynes manual or buy one.

youd better check that address lol http://www.wises.co.nz/d/33/Auckland/Mangere+Bridge/Hastie+Avenue/Auckland/Greenlane/Greenlane/[/url]

mangere bridge greenlane?

will bring one home 4 weekend yo/ on another note whats the deal with the pads that are really unevenly worn? is that a common thing? the pad looks like the caliper floaty arrangement is 10 degrees out of square to the disc, but its not i apologise in advance for spamming up your thread

it occured to me today thinking about that article above, we should check the thicknesses, the max face runout on the left? front disc was like .08? but if how i remember that article is correct, that would make it .16 thicker than the thinnest point. if it was "warped" as such it would only be .08, that guys pretty adiment there is no such thing so im slightly inclined to belieive him. have you got an external micrometer at yours?

unless your ultra staunch n/a just run low comp rotors and the factory turbo dont even bother pulling it apart it will go forever, and beat 99% of atmo rotarys.

just was at midas thismorning sorting the same problem, they just heated bits of the system up cherry red and pushed the exhaust system up/around with a transmission jack, took an hour and $120 (inc new resonators etc to get further clearance)

i needed to quickly add some substance to my benifits list, it was the first one that came to mind mines a ported rotary, the only real diffirece was the dash got a bit rattlyer. compared to the hard suspension/spherical bearing strut tops etc your likely to be using in a car that does such cranking skids that it tears mount rubbers its un noticible. does that garage dori one have a rubber/lolathane isolator or 'just' a rod end?

noone will ever know if you leave the gbox mount rubber, it makes the car 100% more pleasant then having all mounts solid. (not technically legal but will go over cert, vtnz. 100% safe. anyone saying otherwise hasnt done it.) benifits include no exhaust flexi joint needed, minimal exhaust/body clearances, solid exhaust hangers mean you can drop the gearbox and the motor doesnt need supporting, etc.