sentra

can you just remove the resoviour and block its port in the cyl afer its bled?

yeah just use some oil off the dipstick/ i have some reconditioned ones of those in front of me as new the o ring should be 2mm, 11.70mm od 7.30mm id relaxed it will be loose/spin with no force in its groove on the injector and move back and fowards about 0.5mm and slot into the rail with the lightest touch (or else orings dont work) when you get them cleaned/recoed they come back with new rubber parts all around (1 o ring 3 bushes) and a new pintle cap and a new filter basket for the same money as the gas money it costs you to go get new orings in the first place. then when your paying $90000/hour on the dyno and having strange problems you can go "well its not the injectors, cause i had them tested"

Robert Broughton No idea how to contact him, try asking this guy for his number -> dion.burgess@secure-com.co.nz

i just completed similar xf 4.1 -> au2 4l, in reality if you go down that path go for a BA motor u have to run a link or whatever anyways cause the factory computer has a pile of security stuff called "smartsheild" that isnt worth disabling (you can get it done but it costs more than buying a link and noone gives up the secrets - think pwm signal from keybarrel etc) unless u roll a shitty pre au "smartlock" motor EF/AU1&2/BA motors all pretty much cost the same but the last ef motor was made a million years ago but u can make the stock ecu work, the other 2 require a link so why not go for BA motor) had a cam and stz in the xf 4.1 engine and it went really well (compared to a std motor damn that was slow) (i offered that motor to negitive creep in his build thread but he is in chch....just like you)

have a motor with a lumpy idle cam and shit in it for one of these the distributers only been on fire once and it only leaked a little bit of oil it was brand new/reco/balanced everything at the start of last summer untill the end of this summer it left me stranded and got replaced with something else. please take it and put it in your wagvan so it stops leaking oil on my floor. i feel too bad taking it to the scrap merchant.

today i tryed changing the charge light with no success so i mounted another random alternator i had laying around on the motor and swapped over the pulley and it still screamed, with an even tighter belt adjustment, the alternater pully instantly went to untouchably hot. out of ideas i went to repco and got another new belt screaming stopped the only things i can think of are reas. far fetched. will go for a huss tomorrow and see if it comes back once the belts worn in or something.

Will put another altetnatet on tomorrow and take it to an autoelectrian after 1 or 2 more tests too close to the problem me thinks

Has positive fed to one side of lamp and the alternater provides a ground at stopped and +12 when running so the lamp goes out

replacement alternater = no change read something today that said bosh alternaters needed a minimum 2watt charge lamp, mine is 0.5 id go check but i accidently shorted out my exchange-replacement alternater today and fucked it

I got a vrfoe cooler

Jake and freinds, after a think today the problem was following the jumperleads so i tryed someone elses ones and the problem now doesnt go away between setups, so.... I moved the idler to get about/over 200 degrees of belt engagement and yeah the screech gets louder. Seemingly there is something wrong with the alternater that is not showing up on the tester. I mounted a pulley in my drill and spun the alternater which was wired up and On, belt screeched, i turned the belt inside out to mimic the belt on the tester and it doesnt screech ( but i can see the belt is slipping) Summing up i have no idea and will get a secondhand exhange one tomorrow

Ummmmmm ok so i got my father whos an electrician to help me, battery is charging at 7 amps, and squeeling, next i wired the alternator to a half flat battery with jumper leads, and it charged at 9 amps with no squeeling, So i jumped the orgigional battery to the alternator and ran the engine with the half flat one with no squeel to rule out the battery, To sum up i am still lost, i will jump the alternater to the normal battery directly in the morning but i dont see what that will proove...Might try borrow one from wreckers just to rule it out, alt is factory just the run an idler setup is diffirent as my boat doesnt have aircon or powersteer unfortunatly thanks for your replys any thoughts appreciated

ok next round of testing fully charged spare battery = no change as above with floodlights on = no change i will ask my brother how to use a clamp meter and see what is coming out of it at idle? all the connections (2) are fine. the V ribs on the alternator look slightly taller than th eones on the crank but i dont know if its my eyes / they are now polished from the belt. i am considering increasing the belt engagement by moving the idler but i dont see why overtightining the belt wouldnt make it quieter if it was an issue (it gets exponentially louder the tighter it is)

hangon hangon its back in i just sat down to grease the idler bearing will test in a sec

ill do it in 20mins and post back be here

i just had it tested at another auto electrican out of intrest and yeah it works fine with no belt smoke at 60amps 12v (with way less belt engagement than me (my belt run is diffirent with new idler positions and stz than factory)) im stumped the alternator pulley is too hot to touch when the belt starts smoking

ribbed serp belt and yeap its correct

alignment is spot on belt has good angle of engagement (its also a serp belt, to make it slip under the tension i tested it at it must be doing something kray-zee) i ran it up with my drill in situ but now i tihnk about it i think the alternator was disconnected at the time so i will re try that tonight

Hi there, Ive had my alternator on a auto electricians test rig and it worked fine there. (this morning) when i put it on my engine and connect it to battery it screams terribly loud when running (belt), the tighter the belt the louder is screams (seems liek there is a huuuge electrical load on the alternator) the belt starts to smoke. when i disconnect it it goes silent and fine. and no smoke. it charges fine and all. the wirings pretty simple, 3 wires, one to charge light (and other side of lamp connected to +), one sense wire to battery + post , and the other big wire to the battery + post (tees into starter feed) (i changed the waterpump and idler aswell just be be sure and atleast know that they are new) what am i missing here? why did it work fine on the electrians test rig??? theres no short to earth on the feed wire i think its going to be embarassingly simple.

ive driven it up and down the road and thats about it so far / which is why i was (bi)curious

where is the tow yard? can we just drive this steez back to our pad? we in onehunga

how are your axles holding up man?

looks like a pile of cast aluminium welding to be paying someone for? kachinggg$$$ down draft itbs on tight little 90 degree bends off head

Sexychevette

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