Bearded Baldy

So in light of buying this.... I have had to pull finger and go through the parts hoard and see what is there to get it rolling so i can get it on and off a trailer. Later xf hubs arrived today so i gave them a steamclean before i left work. Look fine for 40 year old cast iron. Then dug out some fancy shmancy trw rotors that have been on the shelf for the best part of the last 10 years. Unfortunately 6 months of that was in a leaky shed, only surface rust but still annoying.

Spray on oven cleaner and a hard scrub after, then spray with a clear urethane?

No idea what a 911 sounds like, but that does sound pretty horn!

Cheers @cletus, well known in the falcon circles that the aftermarket balljoints have less movement than the originals but i have a plan. I am hoping that since i am only going low springs this time around (whenever it actually gets on the road again) that worst case scenario i lower the bump stop a touch, best case scenario is some getting in some globalwest control arms and them passing lvvta checks with no hassles. The globalwest arms have screw in balljoints with much greater travel alledgedly. That style. Actually, looking at the prices on those that may be worst case scenario lol.

Has taken a bit of searching but managed to get a pair of front spindles from an XF falcon for a decent price. Used to be everywhere but the speedway guys hoarded them and everyone wants big money for them now. They are slightly taller than the pre Xd ones so will change the camber curve a bit, similar amount to doing a shelby drop apparently, and also have a slightly different steering arm, rumour is the geometry was upgraded to better suit radial tyres. Some people use the xf calipers as an upgrade to the xw to xe coons, but aside from being lighter as they are alloy, they also flex more than the older ones. So as part of the deal i told the guy he can keep the calipers. I scored a set of dimpled and slotted hub/rotors on clearance years ago which are waiting on the shelf, unsure if i will use these and some more modern calipers, or let my imagination go wild and mod some hubs to fit bigger slip on rotors.

15yr old baldy found out that you can't use a paperclip as a fusible link... and the fence staple turned from grey, to smokey yellow burning galv really quick... found the short before it melted everything though!

My take on it is so long as i can see the fuel and pressure rating and it isn't perished, and it is a like for like replacement, send it.

I didn't realise i was missing that in my life. Another one to add to the list for sure. Thinking of putting holes in the bench section for the hot air to go through?

Not sure how far @Roman has gotten with his, i have managed to import a set of calibrated orifice plates and the pts digital manometer. Could have gotten a cheaper manometer but the pts one is a nice bit of kit, and has its own software program for easy datalogging. Have not cut a single board yet as far as building it goes.

Bahahahha that is the precursor to building shed number 3!

I would not enjoy that argument.... Aluminium is not a urethane bush so technically doesn't need voids, but the original bush was designed to flex, which aluminium doesn't. I would be inclined to fail it myself, while admiring the ingenuity. However a few wraps of self amalgating tape around the rack under the bush, removes play and does allow flex, also does covers the 'no heating or welding of components'. Not that i would ever suggest you do such a thing in the interim and fit the new bushes later.

Thing to consider with outboard power to weight. Most of the 9.8hp 2 strokes are uprated 6hp units, so are light. 9.9hp ones are detuned 15hp units so are heavy.

Measure the bush up compare to hiace and prado. Superpro website i think has the best search by size.

Like so... And the top mounts through this panel. Am taking a bunch of photos and the seats/mounts to show cert man this afternoon just to make sure i haven't missed anything with my plans. Need to chop and change this bracket a touch aswell. It is the centre pivot for the backrest, needs to go upwards an inch or 2 to position the seat at the right height. As for the cupholder, it may even fit in the xf console.

So these brackets. Need to be mounted here.

Trip out of town yesterday so i called into a wrecking yard i have used for years through work. Gave him 24 beersies and was let loose out the back to grab the rear seat mounts from a ba fairmont, had a quick look over the rest of the car to see if anything else might be usable and grabbed the cupholder. It is not perfect but the guy didn't charge me so that makes it mint! I have a spare xc console which got shattered in the post, i had always planned to resin it up and recover it. Now i am going to see if i can't add the cupholder to it aswell. Pics to follow once it warms up outside....

'If found, please return to.....'

Go into your local private helicopter/plane service center with a couple of boxes of beer and some empty 20l containers and ask for some kero/jet a1. Ghfwii.

I would say everything points to the lower balljoints being flogged out, if you were closer to Taupo i would have offered to come check it out for you. I suspect, without trying to throw shade at the wof guy, that he jacked off the wrong point when checking the balljoints so they stayed loaded and showed no play. That, or the steering stops have bustes off somehow, which should have been noticed at wof too.

Still waiting on a soundcheck video...

Having seen your talents we have faith mate, i personally am waiting to see how you attach the wings to little bastards.

Amateur, if it is long enough to tuck into your collar, you tuck it in! When i rocked a goatee i had a very very close call with my lathe one night. Started tucking my earmuff band under my chin after that.

Mount it with cableties so it doesn't earth out, then update your life insurance policy? Could also compare the ohmmeter readings between the earth cable mount and unit mounting screw holes on each motor, i suspect the old one will read no continuity, and the new one earths through itself. But back to the original feed problem, was the motor itself jerky or just the wire feeding out the handpiece? Last handpiece at work had a dodgy liner after 20years and was being a right prick at random times, till we noticed that it only had feeding issues if the cabling was anything but dead straight.

Just an fyi that you probably know already. If you use 1/2-20 thread it works out to .050 per turn.

Where are you based @Intrepid Fox?