JustHarry

Gave the repairs a smear of composit materiels yesterday . Primed today . Good enough for now. Will flick some color on it in the new year

Found some 15" caddy wheels Will paint stain black and wrap with some 225/70/15s should look good Ripped the hood lining out this arvo. Upholsterer at work is gonna fix the split above the driver seats

Did a bit more after work today On a side note Looking for a pair of 60s 15" steelies buick These are on the front and need a pair to go on the back

How are you certain its not making noise evenery revolution? It's all happening many times a second so would be pretty hard to count

@Unclejake Reading your post I had a very similar sounding noise from a 4d65 mitzy diesel in a mk2 mirage had a loud rattle /clack consistantly like it near drowned out the rest of the motor when idling All I could put it down to when the motor was stripped was excessive bore wear and it's just loud af pision slap You may have broken a piston skirt and that could be why it's only one noise and started suddenly :discdisclaimer: this is the internet and this is my story Results may vary

Big day today. Spent a few hrs at work and smashed out a heap of work. Pulled the rear screen and did the bits in the bottom corners. And cleaned back and rust killed the edge. Will probbaly clean it back when dry and hammerite the edge the glass is glued into and then will color upto the glass when the time comes

Rh c pillar dialed in sunk a bit. But no access to dress and it's pretty thick so a wipe of composit will sort that

Took it into work and left it there. Made a start on the rust this morning Have both c pillars to do in the same area. RR door shut. Both dog legs and rear gaurd are a bit scabby where the gaurd extensions bolt on. And holes in the floor from the cage First bit

If a Mexican can rebuild a th400 then so can I Drove 3kms to the bp for tyre wind then another 3kms home. Call that a win

So anyways it's only been 4 years Rear brakes grabbing was the shoes lifting haha Trans spat the clutch packs into the sump so that got a kit over the last few weeks. Gonna squeeze it into work and tidy the rust up Washed it Dirty and gross It fell apart The culprit Nice and clean and new again

Tommorow if anyone still reads this lol

Man this is some wombling barry thead spec barrying

Idk about yous but crimp terminals especially those pre plastic ones from supercheap/repco always manage to work loose. Use quality crimp terminals. Drop of solder and a quick heat shrink. And you've got a joint that will never have a bad connection or pull out. It's not rocket science. /I'm sure most of you actually know this Ling

I guess it's just timing to get it working properly. Only thing you might struggle with it getting ththe valves to seal the wring way .

This. Those ratchet ones really need to be able to fold or pinch the metal . With the plastic in place this doesnt work that well Then if you've taken it off might aswell drop a bit of solder on it so it will never pull out

Also take a video

What actually happens @shizzl by the first post you did it sounds like motor runs. But when put in gear and try to drive the drive line binds up. Does the motor stall like it's being jammed too? Surely if it's in gear with your foot on the clutch and it still runs there should be nothing wrong with the clutch arrangement

Porika was a bit questionable last year with the trailer on.

@shizzl So the motor starts . And runs fine? And goes into gear in with your foot on the clutch? So the clutch is probbaly fine. And the car rolls round the workshop when the box in in neutral. But you put it in gear and try drive it it jams? What if the driveshaft is out and it's in gear. Does it spin fine? Maybe just take coil wire off and crank on starter so you dont spray gearbox oil everywhere out the back

Oh derp I read it as if youd put a 1kz in your camper. It's just a 1kz turbo bolted onto your OG motor As you were

Why are you so worried about keeping egts so low? I run my stock kzj78 1kz upto 700 pretty regularly towing. Prettymuch goes to 650 just pulling upto 100k All standard engine management bit with a 3" exhaust. And down pipe. With the standard down pipe it would go to 750 degrees pretty easy

Well I guess you answered your own question The only thing between the driveshaft and the flywheel is the gearbox. And if it all spins fine when jacked up then the diff will be ok or youd feel it.

If your getting some movement it wont be in two gears. Then it would be locked solid . Drum brake rear end? Could the handbrake be binding?

Loosely following. Was kinda keen to ride this but have been given the hard word by @RUNAMUCK that I need to do backup again lol