JustHarry

Pays to take new cylinders apart and lube the seals with red rubber grease as often new ones are put together pretty dry and can pick up the seals and leak quite quickly. The rubber grease just keeps things moving better and helps prevent moisture ingress

Asking for the underseal to be removed because it might be hiding something is like asking to remove undertrays because they might be hiding something Totally unreasonable

Also the play in the rack will be the rack end bush they just fall apart. I had to pull the rack out of my wagon and do both ends for a wof quite ealry on in my ownership

Sounds pretty rough . If you can pull carpet and seats to show the floor is in good condition and sills are too etc take pics for future reference. As has been said. There is no reason for a wof inspector to order old underseal to be removed. If there is obviously poor repairs and corrosion that's a different story but it sounds like it's just goopy old underseal. I'd be finding a new wof station He's probably looking at the scruffy paint and just finding a reason to not put a wof on it Also surface rust isn't a fail. He's just finding more reasons to turn you away

Just color over the underseal. You'll need to make sure it's paint overable At work we just a Ra Johnson water based one and once it's cured just key jt and paint jt

Where in the country? Bumper replacements in Auckland is who we use for our top quality jobs at work. Can be some big bills bit it's the best chrome In nz by far They have a shop in chch but send the chrome to auckland

Yeah I did the panel work and assembly and some paint on the mid 30s Riley. And have done patches of work on both avenger race cars and the sunbeam talbot I actually sort of work for Craig. The family owns part of the firm I work for

Small world. Craig was in today haha

Is your bonnet louvered? Could be worth putting a few rows in to let the heat out. This is a customer's one I did the hardtop on.

Leave the hinge on the body. Unbolt the door off the hinge Also draw arpund the outside of the hinge with a sharpie or something. Or use skme tape if you dont want pen on the door frame easier to realign that way

What was his take?

Not sure . Maybe they need to flush the system with something. I know when i put a new pump on my 70 series i cleaned stuff with white spirit A1 were quite happy to just feed r134a into an r12 system . They just feed some lubricant into the refrigerant while filling the system

Nope

Just need adapters on the pump fittings. Ideally a new dryer . Which are usually sub 100$ the expensve bit it r134a. Could be as much as 500$ depending how big the system is

A white lhd one?

389ci. It's not big power lol 225 at the wheels. The stainless muffler is baffled. Centre in side out from memory. Would I be better taking the resonators out the very back and leaving the mufflers in? Or taking both resonators out ?

That's the same amount of fuel I burned from chch......

The bulk is just steel. For some reason the middle muffler is stainless steel lol. The rear resinaor is just a normal one

Anyone got a good recipe for v8 exhaust? @cletus @Valiant maybe? Kinda over the ponti sounding like a hairdryer. Current has a wee resonator just before the crossover then a big stainless muffler before the axle and then another resonator before the tailpipes. It's small pipe like 2.25" spec If I just whip the middle muffler out will it go droney?

Fixed

Pretty much. Am I missing someone ?

Skellerup 4x4 are the greatest gumboot known to man. Red bands are for posers

Custom full alloy will probably be close to that. Yeah that's definitely the best option is to talk to the guys who actually know and they'll probably help you sort something