JustHarry

Has no brakes at the moment they need a rebuild as everything is pretty seized. I'm sorta hoping that since thyre not a super heavy ute and the ld20t although turbo will still be pretty slow, it might be ok.

@cletus @KKtrips I want to put a datsun 620 through cert for a ld20t . It has kingpin and trunnion front suspension and drum brakes all round at the moment. I wi be running fairly small tyres likely 195/60/15 so nothing huge to load brakes to much. And I guess prob a 4.1 diff. Bear in mind the ld20t is not exactly a powerhouse In your experience will the drum brakes after being rebuilt, new shoes, cylinders and whatnot, pass the brake testing? Or am I pushing shit uphill even trying to get them through. Or do I need to go to ball joints and disk brakes? Please and thankyou

Just rejected the crowns carb to fix a stumble. Ready to go

Will try park pretty close. Bigger standing around to long when its cold

When you have some success casting them. I'd be pretty keen to do a couple for the crown fender mirrors. As the escutcheons are getting real had to find in good condition

Fixed for future reference..... /ling

Its always good when @cletus adds to his Insta story. Today's cert tip is.....

The steering is not an issue with these "apparently" . It's just having to do faster correction bushed in the front control arms

https://www.4wdbits.co.nz/ProductDetails.aspx?productID=4897 For arguments sale do these count as a "direct replacement" for 75mm lift?

Yes

Want to lift my 78 series landcruiser. So coils and shocks. Bolt in spec. Will likely need loger soft brake hoses Since I thought it was over 50mm was cert i was only going to do a 50mm. Lift. But would go 3 inch otherwise

So does the over 50mm lift still require cert? Using recognized parts ie. From autolign / ironman sorta thing

@Mr.Mk1 Is it just a pinch weld style cap rubber? Para rubber has a pretty good range of sizes and shapes and thyre pretty cheap per meter

Think you need to find a new wof shop Haha

Generally you get away with bigger lifts if it's done right and your not a fuckwit Also friendly wof places help

Just get longer springs? For 80mm lift you will likely need new shocks aswell Pretty sure over 50mm requires cert.

Just have to take the vaccume line off the vac solenoid that shuts the small butterfly for soft shutdown otherwise it will not idle. Just put a plug in the end of it/a small screw works Have done this on both of my prados

I do agree with Spencer. More is better for overall finish and future polishing.

Also spies hecker 2k 275 is an awsome easy to spray product. Definitely would reccomend it.

Yeah clear coat only needs two coats. One sorta 3/4 coat little bit dry coat and then one nice wet coat. Takes a bit to get the hang of clear as its kids hard to see.... being clear and all.....

I doubt its registered since the wof ran out in 2004......

Looks like it's going to lapse in a month..... @Mattt @BlownCorona @Callum Radford

Like putting tape over a check engine light. Comprehensively mended

If you have rubbed through You will definitely need to put base coat down and do a blend so you dont color the whole panel out again and waste paint. Have you done blends? The danger is the metallics are difficult to blend without leaving a lighter "ring" around the area where you have sprayed base coat.

Proved the surface is keyed up well. Good red scotch brite does this fine. Polyester filler sticks to primer/epoxy with no issues. I dont know whi would tell you otherwise. As Spencer said newtech is a go to for replacing lead. Its strong and will not crack, and can be built up to fill factory joins with often one application The reason there is lead in the roof to 1/4 panel seam is because in the 70s polyester filler did no exist. And lead was the industry standard at the time. If your body is fleeting enough to crack filler. The paint will crack regardless.