johnny.race

Sentra bro, is that your shit in your shed or you bludging off your bosses back I was cutting splines (but 90's) in the shed the day before yesterday and took a couple of pics. WTF is an encoda?? That machine of yours moves the hell fast compared to mine, lol. My setup has stood the test of time though, is able to take over 2 inches through the bore and my homemade machinists jack will bend an axle. There is no downwards pressure on the dead center whatsoever - even when cutting. I dial in a measured amount of preload upwards on the jack during the setup and the cutting pressure cancels it out i have found. Made the cutter myself. 4 tips at around $90 - fuck! If Noah had a setup in the Ark - he'd have copied off mine, haha! I am not a machinist and have had no formal training whatsoever. But if you have a passion for something though ... it negates most of the formal training shit institutions stuff into ya. Hilux axle for a stockcar. Churr!

Fark! This is a labour of love eh? I have a couple of LN106's ... well 1 x LN106 and a LN65. But the LN65 cab was in the same sorta condition your cab looks to be so looking around, I managed to find a good nic single cab 106 cab to replace it. That cab came on a rolling chassis. There are still a heap of these things around the traps in different stages of disrepair. They wreck well too. Sometimes its more economical to buy another one and raid it for parts then selling the rest off to try and recoup some of the cost. This is what I did anyway and I pretty much well ended up getting a free cab when all was said and done. There is a bit of fucking around doing it this way though. You look like you are handy in terms of doing body work - I am not. but yeah ... love those luxers!

Make one of these. There is no wood fueled fire or anything else that can match the heat output for the money that one of these can wack out. Apply said heat to a 20mm or 25mm diameter coil of copper ($$) inside the secondary burn part and you are away. You are going to pay for copper. Suck it up. Every ones in the same boat re that stuff. I have been collecting 20mm stuff from out of the yard when it comes in but joining it (silfos) is proving costly and it coils like shit at the joints. Almost not worth it. But yeah ... a coil of 20 or 25mm dia copper pipe in one of these things will heat a house load of water in quick order. People try to get away with the smaller diameter stuff and save money but their results are proportionate to what they spend. Check out the commercially available wetback and wetback boosters ... check out what size copper pipe diameter the pro's are using. There's a lesson in that. I like your tub man. Good stuff.

I've never experienced flame coming back up the feed pipe. The whole thing revolves around creating an oxygen deprived environment in the primary burning pot. The roar these things make is the flame grabbing a hold of the oxygen rushing in, or of my darling pig racing through the paddock to get her dinner. It actually sucks through that feed pipe (the fire - not my pigger). My little Darlek whanau has grown legs My baby!

Bro, my 5c worth ... I wouldn't go chopping up that high density stuff just yet. But first things first ... is that cable 3ph? It is aye? Have you got 3ph running to the house? I'd be getting 3ph out to your shed. A shed as big as yours shows you're into it. Sooner or later, you are going to want to import some decent capability into your shed in the form machinery. It don't matter what sorta gear you're looking at - because there will be an equivalent HD item found second hand from industry that will last longer, go harder and run cheaper than the domestic version you can get from ripco/bunnings. A lot of it can be had reasonably cheaply also. No one ever regretted getting 3ph in their shed. It fucken costs though. In anycase ... you'd be wanting to get a meter in there too. Shelving ... don't build your own. You'll never build a setup that will be as strong, durable and as versatile as dexion pallet racking. You are going to change your shelving configuration and location. I put money on it. As you become accustomed to your new found surroundings, certain things are going to pop up in your head about your current arrangement. Wooden shit does not change easy and is piss weak compared to industrial spec shit. You can use that high density stuff you have as filler for the pallet racking. You can shorten the depth down to suit yourself. This is what i did and i have never looked back. I've changed mine (major change) twice. Some people want moonbeams for the stuff up in jaffa land while yet some scrap yards are full of the shit. You gotta look around. Your shed is going to be a cold hole. You are not going to want to be out there in the winter. And if you are out there - you are going to be working slow and everything is going to seem like a chore. Get yourself a waste oil burner. I'm a fucking expert in keeping warm in a big arse shed, haha! You need to think work flow. this will show you where and how much shelving you'll need. It will show you where the power needs to be/go. It'll show you where your clean and not so clean areas are going to be. I've been where you are mate. Best.

This pic was taken to show what happened to the gauge. This would have occurred sometime after the last pic was taken of it pegging the dial. When i was putting it away the next morning I noticed the needle could not be seen on the gauge ... plus the gauge looked a little faded and shit. I peered into it trying to see what happened to the needle ... couldn't see nothing so pulled it apart. It must have got hot. The needle got toasted and all of the 'black' left the gauge face and turned into this reddy color. Don't leave these things in your shed together ... because they breed like little fricken Daleks.

Finished. Added some heavy iron to the exterior of the secondary pot in the form of scrap reo bar and offcuts from bulldozer tracks. Plonked a length of chain on top also. All this in an effort to increase the effective use of the heat this thing puts out. This cloak of iron on the outside is dense and emits heat for yonks after the flame has been extinguished. Tested it last night by running it for a few hours. It got toasty and passed its 'ready to be put into service' test. Opps - wrong pic. A mate gave me a temp gauge he pulled off a BBQ. Its a contact type but because it was an after thought on this beastie I just sat it on top of the chain links. Even with no contact - this bad little fucker pegged the dial, lol! The next trick will be the installation. I have decided to put it inside the shed. I have nutted out a basic refueling system and some safety provisions in my head. I'm in no rush and need to make room first. I've picked up some more LPG pots also in order to make a few to flick off on TM ... if I can get off my chuff.

This. Fuk - sometimes the answer is staring you right in the face. Cheers.

Yup, mate i hear you but the pie cut is 560mm in length. The inward lean of the sidewalls of the RHS commence around 450mm mark and get progressively worse as it heads out to the front/end. There is only 44mm max - room to work in at 450mm depth. I won't be able to swing a ring openender or anything in this space. I was thinking along the lines of something like a round piece of 8mm plate cut to the correct inside width of the RHS or similar ... welded to a slide hammer. tap it in there and slide wack it out as i tack it together as it spreads. Hmmmm. The rodders in here have done this sorta stuff before - I bet.

I'm up to this - tapering the front of a new chassis build. I have cut a pie/wedge shape from out of the sides and intend to press the top down then weld. The problem I have is that as soon as you cut the pie shape into the sides - they (the sides of the RHS) kick inwards. If this only occurred at the big end of the pie cut then i could just pry them out and tac - but it occurs for quite a way in. See pic. The ruler part of the square is touching the top and bottom but not any part of the side wall in the center. It looks to be a real prick to get in there in order to wedgie both walls outwards. Anyone got any advice on how to go about it or what the DIY tool looks like to get it sorted? The RHS is 150 x 50 x 3mm. Ta.

Cool ride mate. Who's doing the cert, Marty, Danny or someone else?

This is the first burn. You gotta turn your head sideways to look at the vid, lol! I am useless. The size, placement and amount of holes must just be about right. This ran very well 'straight out of the box' I used the same oil flow as I did for the big one. Also, this one seems to run hotter and with no tractor chuffing sounds. The paint didn't peel off the secondary pot on the big one like it has been doing on this one. I am planning on dressing this thing up with heavy iron in order to use the heat more efficiently ie a heat bank. http://vid528.photobucket.com/albums/dd329/race_hemi/P8150562.mp4

Got it going this arvo - runs hotter than a snakes arse. Check out the intensity of the burn in the secondary pot. Can we start winter again please.

Smudge Pot bro You don't wanna be sticking that thing inside your shed, haha! They put out some massive heat aye?

Mk2 next door to the original grunter. This bad little heater is going to fire wayyy above its weight judging from initial observations. I have incorporated improvements (well i reckon they could be) I have thought about since cobbling together the big one. Deeper pan compared to the original so the flame will have to work/jump extra high. Less scrap to source by eliminating the brake rotor. A smaller diameter primary (I am sure that is what it is called or maybe not?) connecting the secondary burn chamber to help keep the velocity up and some big arse holes in the bottom of the secondary burn chamber thingy (that you cannot see in the pic) The exhaust on this is the same size as the big burner - look at the fucking size of it, lol! This is the full race version of the original Its not finished but should be tomorrow if I pull my finger out. I did a 'test firing' of it to see if the flame would jump from the bottom pot high enuff to grab hold of some air through that ring of holes ... maaaate, friggin rocket motor! Haha!! But that was on gasoline mixed with my normal concoction. Confidence is high that this is going to go hard on the black stuff though. Churr.

Mk2 coming together. This one is going to be smaller but with the same size exhaust as the big one above and going to try an even deeper drop/bigger area in the primary pot. 1950 Youngs Welder made in Onehunga, Auckland. Type F (I think) Got it at an estate sale years ago. The oldmans kids didn't want it and were getting rid of all of his gear. What a waste. This thing probably helped build NZ. Will outlast me I bet. Grunter and unliftable. Learn from someone that has been there - Don't build one of these waste oil thingies ... they are addictive.

Cheers mate, I am in with a scrap metal outfit so am sweet for supply.But thanks for the offer.

Fuck! My post count is increasing ... I might make 30 posts by the end of this month!!

Hey, it uses 3 liters per hour when in its sweet spot mode. Its actually 2.9 liters but its free so who's counting (there is a small cost of uplifting the stuff if you have not got free and unimpeded access to tons of the stuff though - but I digress) It afterburner mode (like in the clip) it uses 3.3 liters per hour. I've looked on TM and have looked at heaps of clips on youtube ... looked at their claimed rates of fuel usage of like 1 liter or 1 point something liters per hour fuel usage and resigned myself to the fact that not only was mine more 'rusticky' looking than theirs, but that mine also was never ever going to be as fuel miser as theirs either. It took me quite a while to get over this fact ... something like 2 seconds or enuff time to wip out a 'pffffft' when reading their claims I came about the fuel rate usage by getting it up and running sweetly then diverting the feed line into a measured container and using a clock to count/measure. This is a ghetto build. There is no 'finesse' about this thing. The guy who got me into these things built his own one too. He used quite a finicky (to me) way to dispense the fuel but with increased scope for tuning. As a result, his one only runs on finely filtered oil, lol! We know because he tried to run his on the crap I run on and his blocked up, hahaha! Fuck we laughed This one on the other hand .... this runs on unfiltered waste straight from the sumps and tanks of scrapped vehicles ... this thing spits and pops when lumpy shit goes through or antifreeze etc but seemingly takes it all in its stride. There is something to be said for rudimentary shed rat engineering I say.

I am a clutz with modern tech. My phone is so old it doesn't have a camera (I get teased about it, haha!) I don't got a FB page or anything and this is the first time I have posted a vid clip to a message board. So bear with me ... This clip was taken the second time I fired it up and was never intended to be posted anywhere. I ran it for 7 hrs straight in order to see what it went like, to test my welds (lol!) and see if I could zero in on the tune. First up haha ... it sounds like a fuckin tractor in this clip (I knowwww!) but I was still coming to grips with understanding what it wanted/needed. When it started getting super hot and making the tractor sounds, I thought the fucking thing was going to vibrate to pieces, lol! Get a load of those flames though, eh? They are rounded. They are trying to get at the outside air whilst getting sucked back in to the combustion process (if that makes sense) there is some intense combustion going on in there This is what flame looks like in an oxygen depleted environ I reckon. Big suck matched with big heat. All this with no power plug lead required. Fuck yes! The other thing to check out too is the absence of smoke. Really - have a look at the top of the flue - nothing, nada zilch. All bullshit aside and in simple terms ... I have determined that these things have a sweet window in which they run hot and clean. Either side of this is going to be either too lean or too rich. I have proven this to myself by finding a sweet spot in which i was happy with noise and smoke absence. I then slowed the fuel feed rate down (leaned it out) and got smoke and less heat. Did the same going the other way and got the same results but with a heap more smoke (and more heat) Each time I returned it back to the sweet spot and it was all good again. Don't give a toss what others have to say about tuning - this was my experience and observations with this badboy and it works for me. The heat can be truly intense dudes. Since this clip, its been running sweet as. Next step is its installation. Original plans were for it to be installed inside the shed but I am not going to now. Insurance ... paranoid about an open flame in the shed, no balls yada yada. Instead its going to be installed in a closed off little enclosure next to the shed where upon i will duct the heat from it - inside. I was thinking of doing the thermo-syphon thing also but have not got the drop needed. But jury is still out on the entire installation thing. Churr. And it does not sound like a tractor anymore ... still makes some noise though but not loud or intrusive sorta sounds (incase you were wondering, haha) http://vid528.photobucket.com/albums/dd329/race_hemi/P7240509.mp4

Whatever you do, don't build one of these .... and definitely don't stick a comfy little seat between it and the work you went out into the shed to undertake You will find your arse being drawn towards the seat while you start to look for a jobs you can do sitting down. Then fuck it - you just sit down anyway and enjoy the heat This free heat. You sit amused, slightly amazed even. How can a simple flame burn with the intensity of a blast furnace with no fuckin power cord? Physics and ummmm other shit you knowingly nod. Fuck off Johnny - youtube more like it, lol. As you heat up a wry grin creeps across your dial ... that smug look one gets when they know that they have done something ... accomplished something that flies in the face of every fucking power company and probably council. You have made a source of free heat that runs friggin hot, extremely clean on stuff most have to pay to get taken away. Scrap metal, grinder and an old arc welder ... I fucking luv it!

It might be because of the overhead gantry you need to lift that big arsed indexhead to re position it in order to present the axle flange to the spindle, lol. The indexer weighs as much as it does because its a substantial piece of iron due to it having a bore big enuff to take a reasonable size axle through its guts ... but yeah mate - agree. they go for not much more than scrap value which is a shame. I jumped on a HMT FN2U off TM a few years back and have it set up solely to do respline work. Its a rigid piece for sure and I love using it. I never tried using the turret for doing it (resplining) but after watching Youtube clips of respline work being carried out on Verticals - decided a dedicated Horizontal was a much more rigid set up that could be had for not a lot.

Yip, you hit the nail on the head ... sounds easy but you could easily spend a day + doing a pair. If you want to get any sense of accuracy in the work then bench setups, dot punches and hand held drills are out of the question. You'll need a decent setup along the lines of hanging your axle off the front or rear of a mill table that is equipped with a DRO or friggin good hand dials. You'll forsake any previous setups and tramming when you swing the turret around to hover over the axle flange. Then you'll need to fuck around with your co-axial DTI to center everything up whilst hoping you have enough working height so as to be able to use the long indicator extension. Failure to get enough height will force you to use the short extension on the taper of the factory center drill hole - an act you always felt dodgy doing, lol! And this is all after you have whispered to your lathe the word 'sorry' a thousand times as it shudders and jolts under the strain of interrupted cutting brought on by the now hardened weld material that you filled up the previously used wheel stud holes. You did your best to remove as much of this material as you could with your trusty angle grinder prior to chucking it up ... yeah sounds easy )) lol!

I've done this before. I dunno how legit it is but there would be heaps of axles around with a different PCD than their respective OEM gave them. I've done a fair few Hilux ones and 9 inch ones. The Ford has 3 holes between the existing studs, aye? 1 bigger one and 2 nearly as big ones. The 2 smaller ones weld up and the bigger one gets a plug welded in prior to facing the lot off. I've welded up the big hole before but it puts a fair bit of heat (flange warping type of heat) into the flange I have found. Maybe this is just me but you'll see what i mean if you try it. I stick the first hole through the plug and this usually allows 3 of the other 4 holes to go through unfucked with flange steel. The last one (your mileage may vary) and there is always one, lol! Will be very close to a weld and probably into it a bit. I use colbalt and slow feed/speed to help going through this half and half bit of flange. You'll need to have a decent setup for doing justice to the new PCD. Something accurate and rigid. Heaps of guys have used a rotor (or real rough cunts - a rim) to locate the new holes. This is ok if you intend to run hubcentric wheels ... but can show itself up if you are a little bit off and you end up using rims that are located by the studs and not the hub. The reasons are self explanatory.

Mattey, seriously - have a look at your axles again and see where he has chopped and blazed them back together again. He's obviously dressed it well or you are not up to play on what to look for. I respline axles for income and I'm telling you - those are not new splines in your pic. New splines cut into hardened axle steel glisten like the sun. Carbide has that effect on induction hardened steel. plus you pay through the nose for most machine work - especially spline cutting. I'm guessing they have been nipped in that shiny bit right by the shrink ring. Usually when an axle has been cut and welded - its done on the thickest part in order to get as much weld in the join as possible. I'm not knocking anything, just interested in this sorta stuff since I muck around whacking them down myself.