HumberSS

Throw some nice big rads on the bottom of inlet runners where it meets the base flanges for your final print, just to reduce the stress razors there. This is such a cool build, one of my favourite cars too.

+1 for the na, it will be heaps in this thing and sound rad

Would say width similar to an ej, check skid factory vid is a good overview

The EZ30 will also run to 400hp on boost without mods, is pretty cheap and has a 6 speed box. Also has the right badge... Ticking some boxes? It's also only about 40mm longer than the 4cylinder motor.

What about an EZ30? They are such a nice motor, heaps of grunt and super reliable. The rust looks fun..!!

Yip they have reinstated the original plates by the looks. Have been having a good exchange with the current owner. He's sorted a lot of shit, mostly the superficial shit that @ThePogand I clearly never cared for. Had some interior trim and the dash repaired, fixed and recromed side grill trims. Really just needs a coat of jam now.. I suspect the sills will need doing one day,they were never the best. Wish I had the money, it was a sound old pig

Are you planning on casting the manifolds or printing in something spesh?

I also brought one of those Silverdale 14" jobbies for my build. Should suffice for the 'not much more than 200 HP' I have at my disposal. I'm glad you mentioned those zip ties. I've been displeased with my use of them, but was going to be lazy. Will be cutting them off now and doing the right thing. Great build btw. Looking forward to skids.

True, the poverty spec ones certainly weren't worth preserving as stock, unless you had a minter like your dad's one. Cool build mate

Thanks dude appreciate the props

I had an AA63 as my 3rd car I think, some 25 years ago... Very close to the top of the list of cars I regret selling. Factory 18R-geu, coupe, LSD, w57... Ah well. If I had your one I'd be trying to find a more period correct motor, but the little V6 sounds pretty interesting. I like your use of graphs to justify your insanity.

Thanks man

@cletus wondering if you can enlighten me on any rules pertaining to minimum distances from exhaust to fuel tank? Check my Last post in my v8 dyna thread for reference. Presently about an inch, was thinking to sheild... Cheers

Is there a minimum distance required between my fuel tank and the exhaust? I'm about an inch presently. I'm hoping a shield is the solution here, rather than moving shit...jump on my discussion thread with your opining.

I think what @yoeddynz is implying is you will effectively need to get your cartage license (tsl) if you don't register it as a motorhome. As it will then effectively be deemed a cartage truck, and you (or Celine need to be) a cartage operator. The tsl is with you, human, rather than with truck, but necessary for cof (this ballache I dealt with running dad's cartage business after he died, we ran under his mates tsl). It's a good heads up, you might snooker yourself. I'd dig into that a bit further...

I have a few unused flywheel presses, wonder if I could adapt one to the job...

My buddy who is a qualifed panelbeater of 25 years steered me away from using spot weld bits. His theory is a 3/16" pilot hole followed by an ordinary 13mm drill to punch through the first layer of steel, leaving most of the bottom layer in tact (hence using a drill bit much larger than the spot weld, also perfect alignment becomes a non issue). He also uses a bone handled kitchen knife sharpened into a chisel to pry the panels apart. After initial trepidation I have to concede his experience fully wins here. And you can resharpen a dirty old 13mm bit!! Ps, great build

Technically you can't drive it. Actually, you will. Chances of being caught, probably nil

Big dick swinging right there

I want one of those

Pretty crazy huh. Your c20 is way more eco in my eyes. It's lasted 60 years!

This is a neat car. Can you tell us more about the Pullmax??

Very cool build, following with great interest!

I would just spin some dowels up on a lathe and drill them out. They are only for location/alignment so the hardness probably doesn't matter too much, mild steel would be fine. Likewise with your water pump, get a machinist to skim the back off the impeller and refit.

Best way to do this is buy a whol leaf so you don't get scalped on batteries. They have some good power, and even better once you add the openinverter.org board, which you need anyway to do the conversion. I daily a leaf, and man it's quite shit but it's got this awesome whack of midrange and always surprises people. They weight 1600kg too, just as a shit unknown fact.