NickJ

Which epoxy have you found? I've used a few different types and they all have the same issue, you really need to have a rigid support structure during the post cure. The tg/hdt lags behind the cure temp so you should aim for post cure above service temp and expect the part to move. The cure steps given are usually a guide to ensure you keep thermal gradients in the part low to prevent warping (as the resin cross links more it shrinks, high thermal gradients make this non uniform causing it to pull which ever way) The better* way to post cure (and takes some time unless you push through tests) is to slowly ramp the part, for example push the oven in 10deg steps so it reaches the top temp in similar time, if the part has bulk increase the time steps. For a part that size i'd ramp over 5 hours to 180deg, I also use plenty of temp sensors to confirm gradients. *In production sense - There are activation energy levels that may require soaks but that is another level. You can't overdo it so for one off parts just take the ramp real slow and bob's ya fella.

Yep had it at 10lpm on the gauge and noticed that it seemed to flow way more than works under similar set up, tried turning it down and the shielding was crap, settled to about 8 on the gauge with a #7 cup seems to give nice results. the reg is only a cheapy, who knows what its actually up to. I don't think its wasting too much gas, I have done a shit load of unproductive welding, turned most of my scrap bin into a single lump trying new stuff. Thanks for the tip! It was doing something weird like that with starts, like a big burst followed by a lull that didn't do much for shielding if it fired in the lull, had to extend the pre-flow to get a nice start, i'll look closer cos man that long pre-flow aggravates my inner Yorkshireman. Saw the flow gauges on Ali but I can't bring myself to buy a calibration tool from there, is there anything local that not just the same thing with markup and trustworthy? On Bunnings bottles but tbh its a fuck around, the nearest never has any in stock and I end up driving across town anyway. West side of chch has BOC, Air Liquide and all the usual engineering supplies so there are many options. I just need to look, with the amount of welding i've done in the last year, i'd almost justify an account bottle, also found the air liquide mig gas is way nicer to use than core which is pushing me in that direction.

Its been a massive learning curve recently and I suspect there is even more to come but for now the urgency to get a pedal has diminished from learning more about the 4t settings (and is one less body part to coordinate!) I can totally see the filler speed being the way, but holy shit there is some muscle memory to learn before I can get near to laying out more than 100mm at a time! Messing around has rapidly chewed through the first bottle of Argon, will need to pick up another next week.

First Ali project nearing completion, gullwing windows for the back of the truck I finding 4t to be an absolute gem, set start current high, dial back on main current then taper off to bare minimum on finish, with many similar welds I managed to get the settings just right that I never had to mess with the torch dial. \ By no means an expert and the dremel will get a work out to finish up, but happy to get this frame together without making a real mess. Conclusion - The cheap tig is legit, hopefully I'll get a few years from it!

AS/NZS 2538:2004 is per stand and I believe the default required ASME is per pair.......

Cheers man! Gave pulse a go, gives a nice metronome to run with once all the settings were figured out. The dial is a bit hard for me, still trying to figure out the best way to hold the torch that gives control and easy adjustment, so far I get one or the other and with no clicks the feedback is limited to the sound/shape of the arc that I am yet to tune into. Will persevere, Argon is cheap and grinding discs are on special.

I plan on getting a pedal in a few months, until then its fumbling the dexterity to operate the dial and keep the electrode steady..... the Heatsoak is impressive, started out at 120A (10mm Al) after a few of the above beads I looked over and noticed I had turned it all the way down to 20A I have played with the pulse on steel, really cool, but the number of settings gets carried away, any rough starting points for Al?

So my problem appears to be talent. I'm definitely guilty of too much heat, it happens quite fast and I'm still arranging the coordination to keep up. I'm actually finding it quite exhausting, so far i've made every rookie mistake including removing the tungsten only to sharpen up the filler rod, needless to say the brain had a wtf moment when that hit the wheel! I've watched a few of that fellas videos in passing, so much to learn and then translate to muscle memory. On the progress side, laid my first ali beads, have to say i'm not sure what I was so nervous about! Started at the top, the bottom was me playing around with 4t and using the torch mounted current dial. Not going to win any art awards just yet, but enough to be encouraging to continue learning. Hoping to find some more scrap this afternoon to stick together.

Whats your plans for the machine? They're quite production focused arn't they?

I'm pretty noob at tig, my experience extends to telling one of the guys at work what i'm trying to do, they set up the machine for me to then fumble about for an hour learning how to re-sharpen the tungsten... So, hours of youtube later and slightly improved coordination i've started messing around with setting up the machine to fusion weld 0.6mm stainless (for a future project) few holes later and i'm narrowing in on the recipe. The edge came up pretty good while I got way off line on the butt causing a hole which I failed miserably at recovering! My interpretation of the colours is I could do with better Argon coverage? Will have a play with different cups and flows next either way. I had a go at AC aluminium but grabbed the wrong filler rod, maybe next week. Initial impression of the machine feels no different from the one at work, very happy!

Overnight shipping surprised the hell out of me! Total midget compared to the ancient Cebora mig and i'm impressed that the torch and controls don't feel as cheap as I was expecting. Fingers crossed to get chores out of the way and have a play.

I have both Stainless and Ali tasks for it, will be a solid workout if it arrives

This pic gave me FOMO, have been on the fence about buying a TIG for some time, just hit the go button on one of these: https://www.onlinetools.co.nz/products/weldpro-tig200-acdc-pulse-welder Best value I could find with proportional foot pedal..... Big spend tomorrow on all the other bits and pieces, you're a bad man Raizer

Land Rover spec MTF-94 for their gearboxes too, I currently use ATF (as recommended by LR barrys) which oddly works really well but will be switching to the Penrite 75-90 GL4 at next change cos it then keeps it standard with all the other shed junk.

For a one off setting up a diff, anything will do the job. If you're doing it often / flying to the moon, Starret or Mitutoyo

The first sump I fabricated for the Niva was with a mig, it had British spec leakage rates, being poor student at the time I fitted cotton (rag) patches with araldite which worked surprisingly well until round two which was 100% tig. Whats the temp rating on the return hose? first look gives me worry that failure means quick oil dump?

So just to test this, those parameters, a delta T of 50K means you've got a steady state heat flux of ~500W? Is my maths right? would you really get that much thermal transfer?

Yep, identical to mine but waaaaaaaaay more spendy, its the bubble that just won't burst.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/land-rover/listing/3355299264?bof=Mst7ExMe

yep

Electrical wholesalers here in Chch have good selection of basic terminals and sell in lots of 10 Way cheaper than jaycar/supercheap too

Yep, not as easy to cool panels as CO2 but being patient on flat surfaces it can do the job really well, if the parts can handle dunking it is the quickest way. Biggest drawback i've found is excessive condensation

I've been trying with LN2 on some nasty aftermarket tar-like goop on the Datsun underbody, no real result ended up resorting to a knot brush & grinder and various scrapers, heatgun and finally acetone. D-, will not do again.

Buy a bit of this for old leather, works a treat on boots. https://www.saddlerywarehouse.co.nz/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1050

Cheers! Plenty of relevant info in there, really need to get off my butt and make a slapping implement, paddle? So many gems in his videos, just difficult how long they are, he's at Bob Ross levels of calmness! Thats the exact type i've been looking at, but is something like this with more bite, oval jaws and a pedal worth the extra coin? https://www.machineryhouse.co.nz/S2264 Hmm, thats a good offer! i'm a week or two from really needing them, i'll reach out for sure if I can't decide, thank you!